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spark plug wires

 by Joebafett
Does anyone have an under the hood picture of a 4 banger? I am not reading this diagram right, a photo for me to copy from is all i need...

Posted Oct 6 2010, 11:15 AM in Engine Tech & Diagnostics

Blown Fuse, but there are millions!?

 by Redking
Johnny Mullet
Oct 5 2010, 03:32 PM
That pic is not an actual photo, just a diagram.
Thanks for clarifying, johnny.

Yes I think i figured it out once i found the cover under the passenger side seat.

I'll pull the "acc" fuse first and go from there until i find a melted one. then i'll take it to an auto parts store and try and find a replacement.

thanks for the help.

Posted Oct 5 2010, 05:55 PM in Electrical Systems

Blown Fuse, but there are millions!?

 by Johnny Mullet
That pic is not an actual photo, just a diagram.

Posted Oct 5 2010, 03:32 PM in Electrical Systems

MPGuino - soon anyways

 by undgsx-R
Jul 11 2010, 07:41 PM
Metro Fanatic
Jul 11 2010, 07:19 PM
So, if I walked into a store, let's say radio shack, with a shopping list...it would only run about $10?! Is there special equipment needed to do some of this work? You mentioned 'etching'. What are the hidden costs? Sounds fun and looks cool though.
Once upon a time you could do that at Radio Shack.
This stuff is one of my many many hobbies and somewhat part of my work too though I'm in management now ( a working manager).

Been accumulating tools and 'stuff' over the years, buy parts in bulk for my projects.

If you don't already tinker with electronics and have the 'stuff', you can't build this for $10, the prebuilt would be a better deal.

A lot of people do tinker though, make their own PCB's using various methods. Heck, this MPGuino parts count is so low that it can be (and has been) built with point to point wiring.
I guess Radio Shack still sells perf boards. Get a perf board from Radio Shack, LCD display (~$6.00 shipped from Ebay), an ATMEGA 328P chip and have a friend program it, some misc parts and put it together using point to point wiring.
So if I go this route, order the lcd, the atmega328, and the perf board from radioshack. Which diagram do I use for wiring it up? The arduino or the iduino?

Posted Oct 5 2010, 12:46 AM in Fuel Economy/Performance

MPGuino - soon anyways

 by undgsx-R
JBD I am going to attempt to try and build an MPGuino myself. Is there any chance that you could help me out with my wiring, I have a couple of questions about the diagram and was wondering if you could help me out.

Posted Oct 4 2010, 11:08 PM in Fuel Economy/Performance

My MPGuino is here. Looking for the best install.

 by mwebb
Oct 4 2010, 08:32 PM
Turbo Dan-O
Oct 4 2010, 12:34 PM
VSS-yel/green, INJ-yel/black both at the ECU,
Same thing I did (remember, I warned you <G>). It just would not work being hooked up at the ECU. MANY people have reported this. Why won't it work? I have no idea because it most definitely should. I might yank out the wiring harness from my parts car and take a look at it if I get a chance. There has to be a rational reason why it won't work for so many of us.
on mine
the colors listed in the diagrams DID NOT match the actual wires in the harness , use the pin #
then look at the color , pin # overrides color .

the C is connector #
followed by
Pin number

C1 pin 14 is connector 1 pin 14
there are multiple pins with the same color

Posted Oct 4 2010, 10:06 PM in Fuel Economy/Performance

My heat doesn't work

 by Memphis metro
Hi KC, sounds to me you need to get back in the fuse panel and check all those fuses again. Do you know what a blown fuse looks like? Take the one out for the heater and replace it anyway and see what happens. Blower motor fuses are usually 30 amp fuses. From what I am reading on a wiring diagram there is two fuses you need to be concerned with. One is the blower motor fuse in the fuse panel that is a 30 amp fuse and the other is a heater fuse which is a 20 amp located on the junction block.

Posted Oct 4 2010, 09:19 PM in Engine Tech & Diagnostics

Blown Fuse, but there are millions!?

 by Redking
I finally found the fuse box above the break pedal.... glad it is in such an easy to reach location :banghead

not only that but it looks as if all the fuses and held in by plastic teeth you must break in order to remove :banghead

Not only that, but none of them are labeled :banghead

and there are A BILLION OF THEM AND THEY ARE FRIGGAN TINY :banghead :banghead :banghead

I plugged in a little wal-mart cigarette lighter adapter for a standard ac plug. it's always worked before, but the last time i plugged it into my mother's '89 volvo adapter her little car stereo box instantly blacked out and our CD stopped playing. Now i did the same thing in my metro and the SAME THING HAPPENED

No radio, no cigarette lighter (not that i smoke but it's useful)

Any advice on which fuse it could be, how to remove them, etc?

what i thought would be an easy fix has turned out ot be quite an annoyance.

Edit: 2000 Chevy Metro 4 cyl Automatic

had to post because i can only find like 95 and older under dash fuse diagrams and they look MUCH easier

Posted Oct 4 2010, 01:52 PM in Electrical Systems

Metro stalled wont start

 by Bad Bent
Try On-line Wiring Diagrams[/URL] and if you print them out you can color code the wires for easier reading.

I can't connect to http://swift.hit.bg/3EN.html
but my 1996, book 2, FSM has over 200 pages of Electrical Diagnosis.

Under hard start there is ECT, TPS, fuel pump relay, bare or shorted ignition wires, dist. cap moisture, coil wire connections, worn dist. shaft, PU coil and connections. One reference is to the ignition system circuit so you might want to recheck:
ignition coil
signal rotor
CMP sensor
Noise Suppressor filter
test switch signal
ignition switech
Noise Suppressor condenser
ignition control module (igniter)

Posted Oct 4 2010, 11:27 AM in Engine Tech & Diagnostics

My MPGuino is here. Looking for the best install.

 by mwebb
on my 1996 G10 ( 3 cylinder ) with 5speed

connector C1 pin 14 color white = KAM Keep Alive Memory , 12 volts positive , unswitched , always on
connector C1 pin 12 color yellow / black = Injector control / signal (on my car is yellow)
connector C3 pin 11 color yellow / green = VSS , Vehicle Speed Sensor signal (on my car is green)
connector C1 pin 1 color black / green = ground / negative

other year metros may not be the same
automatic transmission metros may not be the same
G13 (4 cylinder ) metros may not be the same
there are wiring diagrams in this forum , the Description / NAMES of the pins to be connected to do not change

Posted Sep 30 2010, 01:54 PM in Fuel Economy/Performance

Turbo Metro to Metro GTI

 by chads4dr
Here is a wiring diagram that I copied... and color coded.... everyone take a look and then make some suggestions for diagnosing his no spark issue!


Posted Image

Posted Sep 29 2010, 11:28 PM in Project Forum

egr hose position

 by mcmancuso
There should be a hose routing diagram on the bottom of the hood, looks like this:
Posted Image
Posted Image

Posted Sep 29 2010, 05:32 PM in Engine Tech & Diagnostics

Metro rebuild

 by Colin
Alright everyone, after wrestling with the engine/transmission mounts for a while the engine is back in the car. Only issue is I'm slightly confused as to where some wires (appear to be grounds) go....
The first unknown is a wire (again presumably ground) with a connector about halfway up it that eventually leads to what I think is the coil.
Posted Image

The second is a pair of wires (again I assume grounds) that are wire loomed around the alternator/starter.
Posted Image

I'm going to try to look up wiring diagrams in a few but I hate looking at them and was hoping someone just had an answer. Thanks everyone!

Posted Sep 26 2010, 03:57 PM in Project Forum

lost my lights

 by mcmancuso
Check the wiring diagram a the top of the tech section, it has the wire colors

Posted Sep 25 2010, 10:00 PM in Electrical Systems

Geo Metro Front End SMASHED in by speeding driver

 by 59RamblerWithFins
NEW pictures of intersection at http://www.Evascar.weebly.com You can then click on the link "GeoMetro2 at top or bottom to see all the intersection pictures which show where my car was. YES, I was in the street. This is evidenced by where the first puddle of antifreeze is in the pictures. I was hit, pushed back off of the street. VW said she saw me pulling out. If she did see me, and lets just say I didn't enter the lane fully, how could she not have swerved to avoid me? Also, I WAS IN THE LANE, SHE SHOULD HAVE T-BONED me!!! She didn't. She swerved towards center lane towards the empty space (CAUSE I WAS IN THE LANE ALREADY) and then swerved back towards me to avoid the car infront of the empty space and hit me sending me back several yards. Speeders cause accidents. I did look and no one was nearby. I did look, it would have been stupid to pull out after I had been siting there for so long waiting for everythng to be perfect,

This is a diagram I drew of the accident scene. I was in the intersection already when I got hit. In Pennsylvania this matters. I'll find the law/statute by Monday for those that keep saying I was in the wrong.
Posted Image

Posted Sep 24 2010, 06:37 PM in The Geo Metro Lounge

1.0L Head Repair Guide

 by bogs
That also sounds reasonable.

When I'm messing with things I will have to put back in place later, I always document where they came from and use permanent colored markers to 'line' mark them (think paint markers). If necessary (rare), I can always fall back on my diagram on the hood.

Posted Sep 24 2010, 12:13 PM in Guides/How to

1.0L Head Repair Guide

 by Spidermoore
Geo Guy,
You can remove the intake from the head or not. It is up to you. I decided to take the head off and leaving the intake in the engine bay as I have covered up my vaccum line diagram on the underside of the hood with insulation... and didn't feel like disconnecting all that, plus the fuel lines, and throttle cable.


I am just going through this in my head and I THINK that you can give your hands more room to work with by disconnecting the head from the block and prop the head up a bit by placing something between the head and block. it might just give you enough room to make the difference. Just be careful that the "something" is soft enough that it won't damage the gasket surfaces of either the head or block. Styrofoam or wood maybe.

I do not recall anything rigid connecting the intake to the rest of the car so you can move it around a bit when the head is detached from the block. As my intake sits in the engine bay unattached to the head, it can be moved around a bit without disconnecting any of the other lines.

I'm no expert but this has been my experience with the one and only time I've done this. I defer to the more experienced here.

Posted Sep 24 2010, 11:26 AM in Guides/How to

Geo Metro Front End SMASHED in by speeding driver

 by 59RamblerWithFins
Posted Image
@Bad Bent Thanks so much for your ideas...I have no clue where she came from. Don't know if the dent is 35mph or up to 50mph. Do know she never braked. Your diagram is pretty accurate but I was just a little more inside the intersection. I remember thinking I HAD to have been hit by the door but couldn't figure out why the accident didn't feel like it. I just sat there thinking WTF. I thought it was strange that it FELT like I got hit head on and I saw the hood and I was propelled backwards not sideways. The door was intact too. So with that said, the only logical thing I can come up with is she tried to veer into the empty spot and then into me and she kept going straight. Tomorrow I will try to draw that.

Posted Sep 24 2010, 01:53 AM in The Geo Metro Lounge

EGR schematic request

 by Bad Bent
...but you have the sticker diagram, eh, dayle1960.

Does Metro EGR Syatem help?

My sticker:
Posted Image

See if this is more of what you are looking for, dayle1960. Best I can do with a little camera and no macro but I cleaned it up in GIMP and this is the Thumbnail...

Posted Image

Posted Sep 22 2010, 12:51 AM in Fuel Economy/Performance

EGR schematic request

 by mwebb
BB has a JPG of the vacuum diagram for a 1996 G10
i have a photo of a how to to bypass the EGR back pressure transducer for testing ,maybe you can see what you need to see
Posted Image

Posted Sep 21 2010, 10:20 PM in Fuel Economy/Performance