Posted Oct 6 2010, 11:15 AM in Engine Tech & Diagnostics
Thanks for clarifying, johnny.
- Johnny Mullet
- Oct 5 2010, 03:32 PMThat pic is not an actual photo, just a diagram.
Yes I think i figured it out once i found the cover under the passenger side seat.
I'll pull the "acc" fuse first and go from there until i find a melted one. then i'll take it to an auto parts store and try and find a replacement.
thanks for the help.
Posted Oct 5 2010, 05:55 PM in Electrical Systems
Posted Oct 5 2010, 03:32 PM in Electrical Systems
So if I go this route, order the lcd, the atmega328, and the perf board from radioshack. Which diagram do I use for wiring it up? The arduino or the iduino?
- Jul 11 2010, 07:41 PMOnce upon a time you could do that at Radio Shack.
- Metro Fanatic
- Jul 11 2010, 07:19 PMSo, if I walked into a store, let's say radio shack, with a shopping list...it would only run about $10?! Is there special equipment needed to do some of this work? You mentioned 'etching'. What are the hidden costs? Sounds fun and looks cool though.
This stuff is one of my many many hobbies and somewhat part of my work too though I'm in management now ( a working manager).
Been accumulating tools and 'stuff' over the years, buy parts in bulk for my projects.
If you don't already tinker with electronics and have the 'stuff', you can't build this for $10, the prebuilt would be a better deal.
A lot of people do tinker though, make their own PCB's using various methods. Heck, this MPGuino parts count is so low that it can be (and has been) built with point to point wiring.
I guess Radio Shack still sells perf boards. Get a perf board from Radio Shack, LCD display (~$6.00 shipped from Ebay), an ATMEGA 328P chip and have a friend program it, some misc parts and put it together using point to point wiring.
Posted Oct 5 2010, 12:46 AM in Fuel Economy/Performance
Posted Oct 4 2010, 11:08 PM in Fuel Economy/Performance
- Oct 4 2010, 08:32 PMSame thing I did (remember, I warned you <G>). It just would not work being hooked up at the ECU. MANY people have reported this. Why won't it work? I have no idea because it most definitely should. I might yank out the wiring harness from my parts car and take a look at it if I get a chance. There has to be a rational reason why it won't work for so many of us.
- Turbo Dan-O
- Oct 4 2010, 12:34 PMVSS-yel/green, INJ-yel/black both at the ECU,
the colors listed in the diagrams DID NOT match the actual wires in the harness , use the pin #
then look at the color , pin # overrides color .
the C is connector #
C1 pin 14 is connector 1 pin 14
there are multiple pins with the same color
Posted Oct 4 2010, 10:06 PM in Fuel Economy/Performance
Posted Oct 4 2010, 09:19 PM in Engine Tech & Diagnostics
not only that but it looks as if all the fuses and held in by plastic teeth you must break in order to remove
Not only that, but none of them are labeled
and there are A BILLION OF THEM AND THEY ARE FRIGGAN TINY
I plugged in a little wal-mart cigarette lighter adapter for a standard ac plug. it's always worked before, but the last time i plugged it into my mother's '89 volvo adapter her little car stereo box instantly blacked out and our CD stopped playing. Now i did the same thing in my metro and the SAME THING HAPPENED
No radio, no cigarette lighter (not that i smoke but it's useful)
Any advice on which fuse it could be, how to remove them, etc?
what i thought would be an easy fix has turned out ot be quite an annoyance.
Edit: 2000 Chevy Metro 4 cyl Automatic
had to post because i can only find like 95 and older under dash fuse diagrams and they look MUCH easier
Posted Oct 4 2010, 01:52 PM in Electrical Systems
I can't connect to http://swift.hit.bg/3EN.html but my 1996, book 2, FSM has over 200 pages of Electrical Diagnosis.
Under hard start there is ECT, TPS, fuel pump relay, bare or shorted ignition wires, dist. cap moisture, coil wire connections, worn dist. shaft, PU coil and connections. One reference is to the ignition system circuit so you might want to recheck:
Noise Suppressor filter
test switch signal
Noise Suppressor condenser
ignition control module (igniter)
Posted Oct 4 2010, 11:27 AM in Engine Tech & Diagnostics
connector C1 pin 14 color white = KAM Keep Alive Memory , 12 volts positive , unswitched , always on
connector C1 pin 12 color yellow / black = Injector control / signal (on my car is yellow)
connector C3 pin 11 color yellow / green = VSS , Vehicle Speed Sensor signal (on my car is green)
connector C1 pin 1 color black / green = ground / negative
other year metros may not be the same
automatic transmission metros may not be the same
G13 (4 cylinder ) metros may not be the same
there are wiring diagrams in this forum , the Description / NAMES of the pins to be connected to do not change
Posted Sep 30 2010, 01:54 PM in Fuel Economy/Performance
Posted Sep 29 2010, 11:28 PM in Project Forum
Posted Sep 29 2010, 05:32 PM in Engine Tech & Diagnostics
The first unknown is a wire (again presumably ground) with a connector about halfway up it that eventually leads to what I think is the coil.
The second is a pair of wires (again I assume grounds) that are wire loomed around the alternator/starter.
I'm going to try to look up wiring diagrams in a few but I hate looking at them and was hoping someone just had an answer. Thanks everyone!
Posted Sep 26 2010, 03:57 PM in Project Forum
Posted Sep 25 2010, 10:00 PM in Electrical Systems
This is a diagram I drew of the accident scene. I was in the intersection already when I got hit. In Pennsylvania this matters. I'll find the law/statute by Monday for those that keep saying I was in the wrong.
Posted Sep 24 2010, 06:37 PM in The Geo Metro Lounge
When I'm messing with things I will have to put back in place later, I always document where they came from and use permanent colored markers to 'line' mark them (think paint markers). If necessary (rare), I can always fall back on my diagram on the hood.
Posted Sep 24 2010, 12:13 PM in Guides/How to
You can remove the intake from the head or not. It is up to you. I decided to take the head off and leaving the intake in the engine bay as I have covered up my vaccum line diagram on the underside of the hood with insulation... and didn't feel like disconnecting all that, plus the fuel lines, and throttle cable.
I am just going through this in my head and I THINK that you can give your hands more room to work with by disconnecting the head from the block and prop the head up a bit by placing something between the head and block. it might just give you enough room to make the difference. Just be careful that the "something" is soft enough that it won't damage the gasket surfaces of either the head or block. Styrofoam or wood maybe.
I do not recall anything rigid connecting the intake to the rest of the car so you can move it around a bit when the head is detached from the block. As my intake sits in the engine bay unattached to the head, it can be moved around a bit without disconnecting any of the other lines.
I'm no expert but this has been my experience with the one and only time I've done this. I defer to the more experienced here.
Posted Sep 24 2010, 11:26 AM in Guides/How to
@Bad Bent Thanks so much for your ideas...I have no clue where she came from. Don't know if the dent is 35mph or up to 50mph. Do know she never braked. Your diagram is pretty accurate but I was just a little more inside the intersection. I remember thinking I HAD to have been hit by the door but couldn't figure out why the accident didn't feel like it. I just sat there thinking WTF. I thought it was strange that it FELT like I got hit head on and I saw the hood and I was propelled backwards not sideways. The door was intact too. So with that said, the only logical thing I can come up with is she tried to veer into the empty spot and then into me and she kept going straight. Tomorrow I will try to draw that.
Posted Sep 24 2010, 01:53 AM in The Geo Metro Lounge
Does Metro EGR Syatem help?
See if this is more of what you are looking for, dayle1960. Best I can do with a little camera and no macro but I cleaned it up in GIMP and this is the Thumbnail...
Posted Sep 22 2010, 12:51 AM in Fuel Economy/Performance
i have a photo of a how to to bypass the EGR back pressure transducer for testing ,maybe you can see what you need to see
Posted Sep 21 2010, 10:20 PM in Fuel Economy/Performance