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Charging System Not Working
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Topic Started: Feb 9 2009, 05:25 PM (5,266 Views)
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Woodie
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Feb 17 2015, 04:41 AM
Post #16
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Dude, this discussion is from six years ago. You really should start a fresh subject in the electrical section.
No, the ECM has nothing to do with charging. In fact, no matter what your problem is with your Metro, it's not the ECM, they're the most reliable part of the entire car.
There's not much to the charging system on a Metro, battery, alternator, two big cables, and the connections underneath the fusebox.
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idmetro
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Feb 17 2015, 09:26 AM
Post #17
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- Hacksaw
- Feb 10 2009, 06:27 PM
The brand new "World Class" alternator that the previous owner installed was the problem. He told me he had it tested, but obviously they didn't know what they were doing. Since "275" is out of commission with a burnt valve for now, I robbed the Bosch alternator and Gatorback belt from it and put it on "400"...problem solved. I have the receipt for the new "World Class" alternator so I'll exchange it for another and put it on "275" when I fix the valve issue down the road.
Earlier today, I tinkered around with adding grounds and actually replaced the negative battery cable with a spare I had as well. All that for nothing. I've had the same problem with "tested" stuff. It usually turns out that the test was done by some less skillful individual at the big box auto stores.
For instance I took in a battery for a core told them what I wanted and the guy insisted on "testing" it, I knew the battery was wimpy to say the least, the test showed 265amps, the "book" said the vehicle would start with 260 amps and the tester proclaimed it good and tried to send me on my way convinced he had saved me from buying an "expensive" battery. I said no go, that battery is 9 years old, it just spent the last hour driving here in a warm car, it's 70 degrees in here where you are running your test which gave results barely over the minimum required, what do you think is going to happen when its 0 degrees? All I got was a blank stare. Purchased the battery I made the trip for and went on my way.
Congrats on solving your issue!
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Metromightymouse
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Feb 17 2015, 07:42 PM
Post #18
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Powdercoat Wizard
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- idmetro
- Feb 17 2015, 09:26 AM
- Hacksaw
- Feb 10 2009, 06:27 PM
The brand new "World Class" alternator that the previous owner installed was the problem. He told me he had it tested, but obviously they didn't know what they were doing. Since "275" is out of commission with a burnt valve for now, I robbed the Bosch alternator and Gatorback belt from it and put it on "400"...problem solved. I have the receipt for the new "World Class" alternator so I'll exchange it for another and put it on "275" when I fix the valve issue down the road.
Earlier today, I tinkered around with adding grounds and actually replaced the negative battery cable with a spare I had as well. All that for nothing.
I've had the same problem with "tested" stuff. It usually turns out that the test was done by some less skillful individual at the big box auto stores. For instance I took in a battery for a core told them what I wanted and the guy insisted on "testing" it, I knew the battery was wimpy to say the least, the test showed 265amps, the "book" said the vehicle would start with 260 amps and the tester proclaimed it good and tried to send me on my way convinced he had saved me from buying an "expensive" battery. I said no go, that battery is 9 years old, it just spent the last hour driving here in a warm car, it's 70 degrees in here where you are running your test which gave results barely over the minimum required, what do you think is going to happen when its 0 degrees? All I got was a blank stare. Purchased the battery I made the trip for and went on my way. Congrats on solving your issue! 6 years ago...
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Hanuman
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Feb 17 2015, 09:11 PM
Post #19
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"The Almighty Grounds Cleaner"
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- Metromightymouse
- Feb 17 2015, 07:42 PM
- idmetro
- Feb 17 2015, 09:26 AM
- Hacksaw
- Feb 10 2009, 06:27 PM
The brand new "World Class" alternator that the previous owner installed was the problem. He told me he had it tested, but obviously they didn't know what they were doing. Since "275" is out of commission with a burnt valve for now, I robbed the Bosch alternator and Gatorback belt from it and put it on "400"...problem solved. I have the receipt for the new "World Class" alternator so I'll exchange it for another and put it on "275" when I fix the valve issue down the road.
Earlier today, I tinkered around with adding grounds and actually replaced the negative battery cable with a spare I had as well. All that for nothing.
I've had the same problem with "tested" stuff. It usually turns out that the test was done by some less skillful individual at the big box auto stores. For instance I took in a battery for a core told them what I wanted and the guy insisted on "testing" it, I knew the battery was wimpy to say the least, the test showed 265amps, the "book" said the vehicle would start with 260 amps and the tester proclaimed it good and tried to send me on my way convinced he had saved me from buying an "expensive" battery. I said no go, that battery is 9 years old, it just spent the last hour driving here in a warm car, it's 70 degrees in here where you are running your test which gave results barely over the minimum required, what do you think is going to happen when its 0 degrees? All I got was a blank stare. Purchased the battery I made the trip for and went on my way. Congrats on solving your issue! 6 years ago... he still solved it, did he not?
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Metromightymouse
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Feb 18 2015, 06:24 AM
Post #20
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Powdercoat Wizard
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- Hanuman
- Feb 17 2015, 09:11 PM
- Metromightymouse
- Feb 17 2015, 07:42 PM
- idmetro
- Feb 17 2015, 09:26 AM
- Hacksaw
- Feb 10 2009, 06:27 PM
The brand new "World Class" alternator that the previous owner installed was the problem. He told me he had it tested, but obviously they didn't know what they were doing. Since "275" is out of commission with a burnt valve for now, I robbed the Bosch alternator and Gatorback belt from it and put it on "400"...problem solved. I have the receipt for the new "World Class" alternator so I'll exchange it for another and put it on "275" when I fix the valve issue down the road.
Earlier today, I tinkered around with adding grounds and actually replaced the negative battery cable with a spare I had as well. All that for nothing.
I've had the same problem with "tested" stuff. It usually turns out that the test was done by some less skillful individual at the big box auto stores. For instance I took in a battery for a core told them what I wanted and the guy insisted on "testing" it, I knew the battery was wimpy to say the least, the test showed 265amps, the "book" said the vehicle would start with 260 amps and the tester proclaimed it good and tried to send me on my way convinced he had saved me from buying an "expensive" battery. I said no go, that battery is 9 years old, it just spent the last hour driving here in a warm car, it's 70 degrees in here where you are running your test which gave results barely over the minimum required, what do you think is going to happen when its 0 degrees? All I got was a blank stare. Purchased the battery I made the trip for and went on my way. Congrats on solving your issue! 6 years ago...
he still solved it, did he not? True, of course he hasn't been on since August 2014 so not sure he's going to receive his well earned congratulations.
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Wirewilly
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Sep 2 2015, 03:35 PM
Post #21
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- MichaelSAlford
- Feb 16 2015, 02:16 PM
I have the exact same problem, although mine is also intermittent! I have already done EVERYTHING listed here, plus put my hands on,(as far as I can tell) every inch of every wire of the charging system, but to no avail. Does the ECM have anything to do with the charging system? It's included in the wiring diagram, but it's purpose seems murky. I got the problem with my 1997 Metro 1.0 5sp, basically I don't think any signal is coming through the I G line telling the Brand new alternator to turn on the 14 plus volts. Got a diagram , I see there should be a ignition switch on the steering column just in front of the lock & Key that should have a rod that slides down to activate the real electrical switch. Caution I've tried to find this part for my year model no dice yet. I know you said you've checked everything for a short, Have you taken the plastic off the column to look there for a short
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