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Lil Evil becoming a Cultus; 97 Metro gets T3 MPFI and mods
Topic Started: Feb 23 2009, 01:35 AM (12,488 Views)
87octane
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drive it, break it, fix it, do it again
[ *  *  *  * ]
It's Sunday night, time to quit after a marathon 4 day attack on Lil Evil's drivetrain.
Lil Evil is a 97 Metro I got from a buddy for free with a blown motor. I shoved a low miles junkyard 94 TBI in it with all the bullshit OBDII conversion parts and passed smog with flying colors with all junkyard parts, except for a brand new O2. Got two years to mod it before the smog police come after me again.

My wife's a real estate appraiser and drives up to 400 miles a day to inspect job sites and this is her daily driver. She used to do it in a Suburban but the gas bill broke our backs so a junkyard 47 mpg documented was a welcome relief. The problem comes when wailing up a 2500 ft mountain climb every night coming home, you can't let the stock TBI drop below 5 grand or you get passed by Priuses with nauseating bumper stickers. Since the wifey ignores the tach red line and buzzes the motor to 7500 anyway, I figure I might as well build it to wail with lots of intake, cam, head, and exhaust and enjoy the 4500-8000 zone in a normally aspirated fashion.

So I've done a bench rebuild of a Canadian T3 top end, minus the turbo, gussied it up with detailing, and got her bolted on my hybrid 94 bottom end. The stock 94 gave me perfect 185 static compression in all 3 holes, so I have high hopes of singing the 7500 rpm song through a SuzukiRD header and a Walker Super Turbo muffler while hill climbing the Santa Cruz mountains once a day.

But first I gotta splice a 1990 harness, ecu, and sensors, into a 97 chassis, which is no small task. I have two T3 harnesses, in various states of disrepair, spliced into one nice unit. And two more 95-97 harnesses unwrapped and providing connectors. My intent is to have a "click in" hybrid T3 harness that requires NO cutting of the 97 chassis harnesses. That project is 80% complete now. Two years from now when it's time to smog, the original 97 engine harness will click back in with the entire one piece smog legal 97 top end (heads, intake, exhaust) and pass smog again with flying colors since it's got no more miles on it.

Oh yeah, before even lifting I hood, I killed an entire day dropping the gas tank to attempt installing a 90 GTi fuel pump into a 97 Metro tank. Need 43 psi. It's a big "NO GO". The hole in the metro tank is so small you can't fit nuthin but the tiny stock pump. Put all that back together, day's over, go drink beer. An aftermarket 55 psi pump from the corvair collection will have to go under the hood instead. Hope it doesn't blow the T3 fuel press regulator all to hell. I don't have any spares. BAck to the parts store for hi press fuel line and clamps.... sigh. Buy some more beer.

I thought pulling the 94 head/intake would be the easy part, till head bolt #5 said "No, I'm not moving". The impact wrench didn't budge it. I consulted with the Mullet, I tried the "useless patrol" over at team swift, drank some more beer, and decided I must be dead in the water. Drank some more beer and went back to bolt the TBI crap back together. Got pissed and attacked one more time, it popped loose. Not skill, just luck. Surprised I didn't twist the head off the bolt and end up like that pro over at teamswift who snapped 3 or 5 head bolts and trashed his block. Moving on...

Now that the T3 head/intake is on the block, I've matched all the hoses and vacuum lines. Same diameters, got lucky. My T3 intake wasn't tapped for A/C up idle, now it is. Failed to mention Lil Evil already has A/C and power steering. Adds some complexity to component location, needless to say. T3 adds Air Flow Meter and air filter box, but I've only got the AFM, have to fab filter box. Takes space I don't have, adds complexity.

So the battery is headed for the hatch back, relo costs north of a c-note to get it right, amazing how much 2 gauge costs these days by the foot. Turns out it's cheaper to buy a racing battery relocate kit that comes with cable and hold downs than it is to buy bulk cable with nothing else.

Amazing how big the engine bay gets with no battery or tray. Now there's room for the tiny Grand Caravan 3.3 air filter box. The stock T3 goes from TB to intercooler, I won't be going that route. Intake hoses dot com coughed up enough rubber parts to get from the AFM to the T3 throttle body. Some tractor radiator hose with 1.75 ID fits nicely to connect that much together. The remaining puzzle is interfacing the input end of the AFM with anything, particularly the air box. I got the top of the T3 airbox, but not the bottom. It continues to baffle me.

I'm also looking for cold air routes but even without the battery tray I got nuthin so far. I want a chrome trumpet in the bumper like Kyle has, but I've wasted hours at the junkyard tearing apart front ends looking for locations and getting nowhere. Got a rattle can of "Okie Chrome" waiting on the shelf when I find the magic though...

I'll post pics when I get to it. (when I get my camera back...)
Updates to follow. But tomorrow, back to work, vacation over...


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2000Firefly1.3L
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nice read. the airbox is located under the passenger fender. unbolt this and you will find it and it can be removed. get some pipe and bend a cold-air intake with a cone-filter at the end. to remove the fender you will need to remove the bumper cover, door (unless you can figure out how to remove that one bolt) and the wiper blade plastic thing that goes infront of the windshield.
http://teamswift.net/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=25955
http://teamswift.net/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=24322
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87octane
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drive it, break it, fix it, do it again
[ *  *  *  * ]
Good suggestions. I did tear the front end and plastic liners off to evaluate all available space. The complication is the T3 throttle body faces the driver's side unlike the 4 banger manifolds, requiring a tough u-turn and snaking along the firewall to get back over to the passenger side fender well.
My current thinking is to relocate the windshield washer bottle to the passengers side and do something similar in the driver's side fender. Time to fire up the hole saw and go berserk.
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2000Firefly1.3L
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sorry im a little ignorant and only done work on MK5 1.3L . What's the T3 ?
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Woodie
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Turbo 3 cylinder. They were available from the factory through about 91. Had a small turbo, knock sensor, and separate injectors for each cylinder. Put out 73 hp.
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87octane
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drive it, break it, fix it, do it again
[ *  *  *  * ]
My cell phone takes lousy pics but it's all I've got at the moment. Not sure if/where the pic will display on this screen though.

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I spent some time studying the real turbo 3 air filter mods in galleries at teamswift and the ones I saw were a big round pipe welded flat against a square plate with a small square hole in the middle of the plate. A cone filter is clamped on the pipe. Sounds like an airflow nightmare so I'm back to the drawing board. The stock turbo 3 air box is a same side in, same side out, so that won't fit my plan either.
The inlet on the Air Flow Meter (AFM, also known as a Vane Air Flow VAF due to the primitive "barn door blowing open in the storm" construction) is a square 1 1/2 by 1 1/2 inches. Some quick math says total cross sectional area matches real nice to a round tube with a 1.75 ID. So I grabbed that 1.75 ID tractor radiator hose and squished it in the vice and measured a square about 1.5 inches across. Bingo. I'll just carve up a square hole in a plate of plastic that's 1.5 + 2 x wall thickness and epoxy the hose in. Round to square transition solved with no flow disruption (or money).
I'm kludging in a 110v block heater as long as the water hoses are off and system drained right now. Between the seat heater and an already warm engine, Lil Evil is gonna be a cadillac in a sardine can.
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2000Firefly1.3L
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looks crazy
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Johnny Mullet
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Fear the Mullet

That's not too shabby of a pic for a cell phone :fon

Nice build you got going there 87octane. Looking forward to the progress :deal
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metroschultz
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Please just call me; "Schultz"

Saweeeeeet!
or as we used to say in the olden days,
Righteous!
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87octane
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drive it, break it, fix it, do it again
[ *  *  *  * ]
Another night of quality time with wife # 2. Dropped the windshield washer reservior out of the drivers fender and glorious room appeared. Mocked up various intake tube rubber pieces, MAF, and filter box and everything fits with an inch here and inch there to spare.

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Damned if that don't look almost factory. Now it's time to get concerned about the oval "outtie" from the air filter box to the square "innie" of the MAF. I've only got about 3 inches to work with there.

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Need a piece of something to squish a round rubber tube into a square, like hard plastic. Where's that busted timing cover off the old dead 97 engine? In the dead parts box, of course. Never get around to taking this trash to the junkyard to free up space for more junkyard parts, so now it can serve a purpose. Measure a square hole, dremel it open, and shove the radiator hose in there. Looks stupid midway but you get the point:

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Cut a big square around the little square and now it matches close enough to the MAF bolt pattern.
Now to mate 1.75 round to 2.5 oval. Was walking to the computer to order another rubber adapter hose from intakehoses.com when I spotted the stock Geo air filter hiding under the corvair with the stock rubber bellows. Hmmm, I wonder...
Yup, I can stretch the bellows over the outlet of the Chrysler Grand Caravan air box and shove the small end into my square plastic hole. And it's the right length, and will absorb all engine movement to frame. Pop goes the next beer!

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On the intake side of the air box, some dremel cuts find a 2 1/2 stub inlet that fits all the various 2 1/2 intake tubes I've junkyard collected from small trucks and vans on half price day. A smooth radius 90 down into the fender through the squirter hole followed by a 2nd 90 aiming straight forward through sheetmetal and bumper shall get me to the ram air/cold air trumpet, painted in okie chrome, to intimidate real Mini's looking in their rear view mirrors. Get out of the way, yuppie scum!!!

Did I mention Lil Evil's license plate is "POS MINI" ? :evillol


Edited by 87octane, Feb 27 2009, 02:07 PM.
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87octane
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drive it, break it, fix it, do it again
[ *  *  *  * ]
Time to finish up the ultra rare 97 Geo Cultus factory ram air/cold air option.

Air filter box with custom oval to square adapter, complete with oem AFM gasket and alignment dowels.

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Full size images aren't happening for some reason, click a second time on the imageshack page to get full size detail.

Check out the recycled Geo air cleaner bellows!

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Now, what's under the airbox connecting it through the fender well? Looking up from the bottom you see two smooth radius bends, aiming straight out the front of the car.

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That oddly placed light is one of the side facing "deer lights" for mountain avoidance. They're a real problem around here. You'll see it again in the front bumper down below.

Facing the front of the car, the forward air tube sticks right into the thickest part of the bumper:


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Here it is, front end assembled, with radius'ed entry in the bumper.

Looks factory stock !!!

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The entry path is so straight, you can see all the way into the trumpet to the first bend. We'll be sucking in birds and squirrels as we vacuum clean the road.
note: the venturi you can see is 1 3/4", as is the smallest of the internal tubing, whereas the throttle blade is less than 1 1/2", so even though it looks small, it flows enough air for a stock 1990 Chrysler Grand Caravan 3.3 liter V6.

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You can also see the dual Hella H3 fog/driving light combos in the guppy mouth, aimed slightly outboard.
The headlights are German E-code Hella H4's.
With all lights on, the cars throws 180 degrees of light around the entire front end of the car back to your peripheral vision, which makes the mountain road switchbacks in the dark (and rain) more like a video game and much safer.

As long as the front end is all torn apart, I may as well put the 110v block heater in. It tucked in real tight between the rad shroud, overflow and the trans mount. A couple inches of hose attach it to the "super flush" copper plumbing T at the bottom of the lower rad hose. This puts the bottom of the heater flush with the bottom of the frame, as low as possible for gravity feed. The top T's into the thermostat housing to heater core line in hopes of circular flow through head to block to heater and back.

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Yes, the block heater bracket is screwed directly to the trans mount shield. Gotta show off the red, after all....
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87octane
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drive it, break it, fix it, do it again
[ *  *  *  * ]
OK, People, it's time to get religion.

The Flying Spaghetti Monster is real. Just accept it. Here's irrefutable proof.

This is the FSM hovering above my work bench, illuminated by the holy halogen glow, blessing the Cultus:

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I will now enlighten the acolyte to the most holy components of the FSM.
On the left is the turbo 3 harness #1, stripped and donating connectors.

The next bundle is turbo 3 harness #2, now with all good connectors and fully labeled.

This is the key T3 harness that will be married to all the chassis connectors on bundle #3, which is an OBDII 97 harness off a junkyard donor. The holy matrimony of these two harnesses will result in a "click in" "97 T3" hybrid harness, minimizing the butchering of the potentially smoggable chassis known as Lil Evil.

Bundle #4 on the right is complete, unmolested 97 OBDII harness straight out of Lil Evil. The FSM commands that this harness shall not be defiled nor cut in any way, and shall be clicked back into Lil Evil two years from now when smog rolls around again. FSM will permit the High Priest to refer to it for reference while performing the holy matrimony of the sacrificial harness.

The High Priest swivels in the holy office chair (upholstered in old army OD green tent canvas) to face the holiest of documents:

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That, acolytes, is the holy bible of smog wiring, the 97 factory service manual, on top of the holy toolbox. The fine parchment hung with care on the door is the blow up of the 1989 turbo3 entire car wiring schematic, as channeled by the FSM through various teamswifters (trademark, all rights reserved, drink coca cola, etc)

Below the holy bible of 97 is sustenance for the High Priest. Now all the ingredients are present for the ceremony to begin.

So, how long did it take the High priest to study the ancient tomes and complete the marriage of the two harnesses? (label everything, snip-strip-crimp)

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Remember Father Whats-his-nuts working on Linda Blair in the exorcist? That's exactly what this project felt like. Does the acolyte understand the OBDII demon has at least a half dozen wires sensing, calculating, and then activating various evap related activities alone? The primitives in 1989 knew nothing of this witchcraft. However, the primitives loved daisychaining various sensors disappearing into the 1989 chassis harness to mechanically trigger various relays for engine fuel etc whereas the 97 ecu would rather talk about it, think about it, calculate it, and control it (you know it's female...) so you can picture the High Priest holding 2 wires that don't match, staring at 2 wiring diagrams, intoning the holy utterance "fuck it" and popping another cold beer....

At midnight, the High Priest retires (stumbles) from the chamber to have visionary dreams of the holy fuel pump relay up idle evap starter signal thermotime injector resistor vehicle speed sensor +12 volt ground demon.....

Next day, the victorious hybrid maiden hangs, fully labeled and cross connectorized, awaiting insertion..... (insert wisecrack here)
The High Priest performs the insertion, very gently, as the maiden is completely unwrapped. (FSM only knows where all these fucking wires go...)

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Every connector finds a home, wires are routed, ECU is mounted behind the glovebox, EFI fuel pump mounted and plumbed under the manifold, another six pack consumed, it's now 1 AM and the High Priest is wrecked.

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Hey look, the evap can mounts either way, and it even fits flat against the firewall. I guess it will get to live after all. Needs some red hoses, heh, heh.

Next time church is in session, the FSM shall oversee the High Priest trunk mounting the battery and sorting out primary power distribution and grounds. All hail the Flying Spaghetti Monster !!! Amen.


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87octane
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drive it, break it, fix it, do it again
[ *  *  *  * ]
Battery is now trunk mounted. Big fat Taylor wire 2 ga. red positive runs north through the tunnel to a big fat 3/8 stud junction block on top of the drivers strut tower, feeding all the factory power leads. Big fat 4 ga. ground running from battery to block, connected to chassis ground in the 3 locations, trunk, mid tunnel, and firewall. We be grounded.

Some how a skunk got into the office hvac and the whole building stinks to high hell. I may have to call it a day, go to Harbor Freight for the March sale, and then get back to work on little evil. Gotta button up the timing belt and exhaust in preparation for test firing. Got wires, got juice, got parts, need more labor time. Skunk's as good an excuse as any...

Oh yeah, got bitched out by the friendly crowd over on TS again for not spotting the error codes page in the FSM: excuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuse me. I'm bleary eyed from too many late nights. That's why I'm writing this up over here......
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2000Firefly1.3L
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i'd be interested to see how you mounted the battery in the trunk pics pls
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Johnny Mullet
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Fear the Mullet

I am loving this build! Totally love the blown up wiring diagram :)

I fixed your images by removing the ".th" from the image addy...............

From this...........
[img]http://img6.imageshack.us/img6/2961/p3023324.th.jpg[/img]

To this............
[img]http://img6.imageshack.us/img6/2961/p3023324.jpg[/img]
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