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cold start; geo wont start when cold
Topic Started: Feb 27 2009, 09:09 PM (4,159 Views)
Bank2me
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suzukitom
Aug 15 2017, 04:05 PM
Bank2me
Aug 15 2017, 03:59 PM
suzukitom
Aug 15 2017, 02:19 PM
Bank2me
Aug 15 2017, 02:12 PM
Ok so I glued the dime on then let it sit to dry then I started it up cold and it stayed running. Then after about 10 seconds it started shaking like hell.
Did it start up with a fast idle and then slow down?
Yes somewhat for about 10 seconds then went super low it felt like it was going to shakeapart
The shaking is likely just the engine idling too slow.

Does your car have a tachometer?

When you feather the gas pedal can you get the engine to idle smoothly?
No tach in this one and yea I think it smooths out once I feather it.
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suzukitom
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Tom

I think we need to stop and answer some questions, since we jumped into this existing thread started by another member, and assumed your car had exactly the same symptoms.

Prior to you making any adjustments to your throttle body:

(1) Did your car suddenly develop an inability to idle smoothly when cold?

(2) When the engine fully warmed up, did it idle normally/smoothly?

(3) At this point, were the only adjustments you made to (1) the TPS position, and (2) to place the dime onto the ISC stop or ISC plunger tip?




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Bank2me
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suzukitom
Aug 15 2017, 05:43 PM
I think we need to stop and answer some questions, since we jumped into this existing thread started by another member, and assumed your car had exactly the same symptoms.

Prior to you making any adjustments to your throttle body:

(1) Did your car suddenly develop an inability to idle smoothly when cold?

(2) When the engine fully warmed up, did it idle normally/smoothly?

(3) At this point, were the only adjustments you made to (1) the TPS position, and (2) to place the dime onto the ISC stop or ISC plunger tip?




I just got the car a month or so ago. When I first drove it, it did seem to shake a little bit when I test drove it with the engine warm. Now after I got it I had it sitting in my garage for a couple weeks to do some other repairs (cv axle, tie rods) I would start it up and it would sometimes start fine without having to give it throttle and other times I had yo give it gas. Now that I got the other things fixed, I started driving it and the one cooler morning around 60 degrees it didn't want to idle while cold. But if I go somewhere and have it parked for an hour it starts and runs on its own but it will shake. And yes my only adjustments that have been made were just the TPS and the dime on the ISC stop.
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suzukitom
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Tom

I'm uploading an picture below of the expected TPS voltage with no feeler gauge inserted and the engine fully warmed up. The throttle stop screw should be resting on its stop, and the ISC motor plunger should not be extended when the engine is fully warmed up and idling. This 0.54 Volt reading remains the same whether the warm engine is running, or turned off with the ignition switch still on.

(It is safest to take the measurement with the warm engine switched off)

Posted Image

Can you compare this with a measurement of your current TPS voltage after your engine is fully warmed up?



Attached to this post:
Attachments: TPS_voltage_engine_hot_no_feeler.jpg (119.76 KB)
Edited by suzukitom, Aug 15 2017, 07:20 PM.
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Bank2me
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suzukitom
Aug 15 2017, 07:14 PM
I'm uploading an picture below of the expected TPS voltage with no feeler gauge inserted and the engine fully warmed up. The throttle stop screw should be resting on its stop, and the ISC motor plunger should not be extended when the engine is fully warmed up and idling. This 0.54 Volt reading remains the same whether the warm engine is running, or turned off with the ignition switch still on.

(It is safest to take the measurement with the warm engine switched off)

Posted Image

Can you compare this with a measurement of your current TPS voltage after your engine is fully warmed up?



I'll try that tommorow and report back Tom!!
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Bank2me
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Ok Tom so with the engine warm and no feeler installed the reading is .62 volts
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geo4thewin
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Have you done a compression check Bank2me?
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Bank2me
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geo4thewin
Aug 16 2017, 10:13 AM
Have you done a compression check Bank2me?
Not yet but was thinking of doing one today.
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geo4thewin
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I would start there, I have had 2 metros that would run bad when cold because of bad compression in one cylinder.
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Bank2me
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geo4thewin
Aug 16 2017, 10:16 AM
I would start there, I have had 2 metros that would run bad when cold because of bad compression in one cylinder.
Oh no shit hmm I'll try and do a compression check sometime today.
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Dystopiate666
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Tree Banger

Especially with the noticeably rough idle.

I was surprised no one had recommended a compression test yet on this topic.

Why dick around and chase ghosts if the engine isn't sound?

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Bank2me
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Ok guys so I did the compression test and came up with these numbers and for the record it's a 94 Metro base... 140 psi, 115 psi, and 123 psi.
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David95237


Throttle was open? Lowest minimum number is 156 for a good motor.
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suzukitom
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Tom

Please verify compression test procedure:

(In addition to holding throttle wide open during cranking)

All plugs removed
Fuel injection fuse removed when cranking
Engine warmed up first
Compression reading peak value taken when pressure reading stopped rising for each cylinder?
Battery fully charged?

Edited by suzukitom, Aug 16 2017, 06:54 PM.
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Bank2me
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Yep fully warmed up. Throttle wide open battery charged. And yes I cranked a while on each cylinder. Fuel injection fuse and relay removed. What do you fellas think? I think it's time for a cylinder leakdown test. But i have never performed one before.
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