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cold start; geo wont start when cold
Topic Started: Feb 27 2009, 09:09 PM (4,156 Views)
geo4thewin
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:popcorn :beer As I stated in my first sentence, that was just my best guess. I agree that if they did all of the work with the motor it would be much more than $300, but as Dystopiate666 said, "It cost me 200 to have the block decked, cylinders bored and wrist pins pressed."

Either way, I knew I would get feedback for throwing out numbers. I was just trying to help out since you asked :D

In my past experiences with tired motors, they will run with low compression. Just expect it to be harder to start the colder it gets, I drove a metro with 140,120 and 90 compression for about 8 months. It all boils down to what you want and not what a bunch of weirdos on the internet tell you to do :cheers
Edited by geo4thewin, Aug 17 2017, 01:06 PM.
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Bank2me
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Thanks guys I will try and do another test this weekend maybe and see how it goes doing it dry. But yea I suppose I could do a rebuild myself but have never done a rebuild before but I'm mechanically inclined so I could probably do it. But I suppose it probably wouldn't hurt to do a leakdown test as well.
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suzukitom
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Tom

Quote:
 
It all boils down to what you want and not what a bunch of weirdos on the internet tell you to do :cheers


:rofl :rofl

this weirdo (me) being a bit of a cheapskate suggests a repeat test. I bought a cheap car once where the seller said it had engine problems. Its oil pressure gauge showed nearly zero psi at idle. The engine sounded fine. It ended up being a sticky gauge needle.
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Bank2me
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Very nice Tom!! And true that..it all boils down to what I want to do. I appreciate the help my fellow Geo lovers!! I just want "George"(my geo) to be ok lol. :drivin
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Dystopiate666
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Tree Banger

suzukitom
Aug 17 2017, 01:22 PM


this weirdo (me) being a bit of a cheapskate suggests a repeat test. I bought a cheap car once where the seller said it had engine problems. Its oil pressure gauge showed nearly zero psi at idle. The engine sounded fine. It ended up being a sticky gauge needle.
Repeat the test definitely. Especially when gauge rental is free.

Repeat the conditions (sounds like it was done right) but do a dry test first, then another wet test to confirm. I would at least verify battery charge between tests if not recharge the battery.

A lot of times it is good to just do the bottom end anyway, I have come across quite a few metros in the junkyards with very new looking heads, new cam seal, new plug wires, tanked...etc....that had obviously become oil burners (yellow or burnt air filters and in one extreme case the entire top of the engine was soaked in oil). Sometimes the blowby might not seem that bad when compression is low and it is leaking out other places as well, go and seal up the top end real nice and you actually get more compression escaping past the rings than before the head job. Plus if you go through all that trouble of lapping in new valves or buck up the cash for a remanned head, and you're still burning oil, you carbon up the valves quicker than you might think.
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Bank2me
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Thanks guys I will do a dry test and see what happens. But yea almost better off doing the whole works.
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Maybemaybenot
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OK so after over a month since the last post, I don't feel as bad with a thread hijack. I have some simblance of these issues with my '94. Quick version: I swapped a donor '95 engine that I have no previous knowledge of. I had to reuse the '94 intake bc of the thermostat housing and some of the other minor harness conflicts. The car runs great IMO, 40+mpg. The only weird thing it does is it idles at warm temp, high like one would expect at start up, and idles at start up lower like one would expect out of an already warmed engine. It sems that the warm idle is a tad higher than it should. Now the start up idle is not "too low" it idles smoothly at a "normal" speed w/o at tach. Now I inadvertently fooled with the TPS during the engine swap. Recently, I got the 2-1 engine code indicating a faulty voltage on the TSP and I assumed the check engine light and my idle issue to be related to the TSP being out of adjustment, so I am going to multimeter that and see what I get. Did I read that we test the TSP with the harness still plugged in? Not an expert with my multimeter so I am anticipating a decent learning curve.

I have received invaluable help from the geo sages on GMF thus far so thanks in advance for your most wise and holy counsel!
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freegeo
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Yes you check the tps with it connected.

If you need the procedure to check it there is a copy of the 94 FSM here on the forum. If you need help finding it just ask.
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Metromightymouse
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Powdercoat Wizard

The issue with posting at the end of someone else's thread isn't that you are jacking their thread (which does bother some), it's that invariably several people will respond to the original post(s) and completely ignore your post making the whole situation very confusing. It's great to read through old threads to get an idea of what the situation is but it is better to start your own thread to save the confusion. You can quote the old threads where you want to make it clear what you are referencing.
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Maybemaybenot
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Metromightymouse, you are correct. I just was trying to avoid the whole "hey dude, theres already a thread on that response. So I figured it was a risk either way.
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Metromightymouse
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Powdercoat Wizard

You actually won't see that kind of response very often and when you do there is usually a link. Generally you are going to get help unless it's a rather complicated subject that has been hashed out over and over and then you'll get directed to a thread or what you need to search (see "oil fart" for an example ).
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