 Welcome to the all new Geo Metro Forum. We hope you enjoy your visit.You're currently viewing our forum as a guest. This means you are limited to certain areas of the board and there are features you can't use and images you can't see. Registration is simple, fast, and completely free. If you're already a member please log in to your account to access all of our features: Join our community! |
- Pages:
- 1
- 2
| Detailed 1.0L head rebuild guide; Replacing valves, cleaning lifters, etc | |
|---|---|
| Topic Started: Mar 1 2009, 04:33 PM (2,519 Views) | |
| Johnny Mullet | Mar 1 2009, 04:33 PM Post #1 |
Hi-Tech Redneck
|
This will take time since I am rebuilding this head in my spare time, so I took photos for the forums so some of you can see what it's all about if you decide to rebuild a head on your own. I had the head shipped to me so I can have one ready to go for another rebuild job or maybe even build it up for myself. I have not decided yet. The first thing I did was place the head with the valves facing up and poured gas into the combustion chambers. No leaks, so you would think the valves are all good, but regardless, it's getting rebuilt anyway. Tear Down I placed the head on a clean work area and removed the 6 cam cap bolts.................  I then used a rag and screwdriver to pop the cam and gear loose from the head............  Please note the almost clogged EGR port.............  I then removed the camshaft and then the lifters keeping them all in order..........   Now it's time to remove the valves. I start with one bank at a time by placing a rag under the valves to keep them in place while the keepers are being removed..........  You can use pliers and a magnet by pushing down with the pliers and grabbing the keepers with a magnet to remove the valves like so................  Or you can use a socket and a hammer to strike the valve spring causing the keepers to pop out like this............  After that simply push the valves out and keep everything in order...........  Now all you have to do is remove those stubborn valve seals! Use a good quality and a sturdy 90 degree pick to pry them out...............  Next step will be inspection and cleaning so stay tuned! Edited by Johnny Mullet, Mar 1 2009, 04:36 PM.
|
 |
 
|
| Coyote X | Mar 1 2009, 05:40 PM Post #2 |
|
 Stainless Steel exhaust valves part number, no more burnt valves 
|
|
|
| 2000Firefly1.3L | Mar 6 2009, 12:57 AM Post #3 |
|
Elite Member
  ![]](http://209.85.62.24/static/1/pip_r.png)
|
i'd be interested in something like this guide for a G13BB since i have low 160psi compression. |
|
|
|
| Johnny Mullet | Mar 8 2009, 11:23 AM Post #4 |
|
Hi-Tech Redneck
|
Now on to the cleaning process. First thing I did was clean all the valves, springs, etc and marked and bagged them in individual bags so they do not get mixed up.............. I see the intake valves cleaned up like new, but the exhaust valves have pitting around the face, so they will get replaced. The first place to start with the cleaning is the EGR port. I ran a long screwdriver through the port and cleaned all the carbon out.............  I then dropped the entire head into the parts washer to get the heavy gunk off and the rest of the cleaning was performed with a mild wire wheel attachment and roloc discs on my die grinder........    I noticed the cam journals had some rough spots along with the lifter ports. I did not want to use anything harsh on these areas, so the green Scotch Bright pads were the perfect choice for cleaning these and making the surfaces like new again...........   So I am going to order up new valve stem seals and new exhaust valves for this project, but before that I am going to check the head surface with a straight edge since I have no history on this head. I don't want to rebuild it if it's warped real bad. Updates coming soon with a tutorial on valve lapping......... |
|
|
|
| Johnny Mullet | Mar 25 2009, 07:57 PM Post #5 |
|
Hi-Tech Redneck
|
Well, all my parts have arrived including 3 new exhaust valves, a set of valve stem seals, and from 3tech Performance I got a 10 degree advanced timing gear, and economy (XFi) camshaft and a new set of head bolts............... The guy I work with wants to port and polish my head for me and showed me his little friend........  He quickly showed me how well the tool works and re did a combustion chamber on my head.........  I am letting him take the head home and do some extensive work on it. I am not exactly sure when I will get it back, but it won't be too long and the wait will be worth it in the long run. |
|
|
|
| jamned | Apr 21 2009, 02:38 AM Post #6 |
|
Fresh Fish
|
Thanks for this awesome writeup! good luck with the rest of the rebuild and post more pictures please 
|
|
|
|
| earthtoad | Apr 21 2009, 06:23 AM Post #7 |
|
New Member
|
Johnny, Pics of the Port & Polish job would be appreciated. Also, did you CC your combustion Chambers ?? |
|
|
|
| Johnny Mullet | May 18 2009, 09:33 AM Post #8 |
|
Hi-Tech Redneck
|
OK, so the guy doing the port and polish job is having problems at home and now I need to get my head back! I am tired of waiting, so once I get the head returned, I will be sure to just finish this guide so the rest of you can benefit from this thread. Sorry for the delay. |
|
|
|
| Bad Bent | May 19 2009, 12:47 AM Post #9 |
Facetious Educated Donkey
|
No problem as long as the head is done correctly and you are happy.  We should benefit from learning patience. |
|
|
|
| Johnny Mullet | Jul 15 2009, 07:47 PM Post #10 |
|
Hi-Tech Redneck
|
On with this rebuild already! I got the head back and the combustion chambers were at least polished real nice. First thing before going any further is to get a straight-edge and make sure the head is not warped. If so, then get it milled at a machine shop. You can safely take off up to .050 or more. Next, take your new valves and slide them through the head and check for excessive play or binding. If so, you will need the machine shop to take care of the valve guides for you also. Get some valve grinding compound and a valve lapping suction cup tool. The tool I got was a tad small, but it worked. Apply the compound around the valve seating area and a drop of motor oil on the stem to make it easier...........  Slide the proper valve in it's designated port and use two hands on the lapping tool to spin it back and forth........  Be sure to lift the valve slightly out of the seat and continue to lap them in place to ensure a good grind. Continue on down the head and do all the valves whether they are new ur re-used............   Take your time and it will turn out well. It takes about 3-5 minutes to do each valve.......  Now remove all the valves and keep them in order. Use solvent or parts cleaner and clean out the entire head from and left over compound, dirt, grime, etc. Next step will be disassembling and cleaning the lifters. If your engine did not make any ticking or tapping noises before the teardown, then cleaning the lifters may not be needed. Since this head I got has no info, then I choose to do the lifters. Updates soon! |
|
|
|
| Johnny Mullet | Jul 15 2009, 08:32 PM Post #11 |
|
Hi-Tech Redneck
|
Lifters can be taken apart with a good pair of needle nose vise grips. Simply clamp onto the center piece and pull it out..........  Now the small section you removed also needs separated. Use the vise grips and carefully pull it apart. You may need to hold the other half with another pair of vise grips to get it apart......  Take note of the little spring and examine all the parts. Now clean them up real good with a scotch brite pad and reassemble. Do this to all the lifters. Next step is final assembly! |
|
|
|
| jmarksbery | Jul 20 2009, 08:23 AM Post #12 |
 
|
 Needs to use the Micro setting for those shots. Thanks sir for the great how to. Would you follow the same for the 4 bangger? Col. Jim |
|
|
|
| Johnny Mullet | Jul 20 2009, 08:27 AM Post #13 |
|
Hi-Tech Redneck
|
The 4 cylinder (G13) is the same except one extra combustion chamber. I will be working on a lower end rebuild guide this winter, but I hope to have a new camera by then. |
|
|
|
| Johnny Mullet | Jul 20 2009, 04:50 PM Post #14 |
|
Hi-Tech Redneck
|
OK, so now that you got all the lifters cleaned up, they should have some spring action when you use your thumb and push the center. Out of these 6, only 2 of them had any kind of spring pressure and it was not very much. What a difference a little cleaning did! Now we need to install the valve stem seals. Use some needle nose pliers and carefully place the seal on the guide...........  Use your thumb to push them the rest of the way on and you should feel it seat.........   Now start with #1 cylinder and ad a dab of oil to the valve stem ans slide the valves in.......  Fold up a rag and place under the valves to keep them in place.........  Now you need a helper to insert the little valve retainers while you push the spring down with your thumbs or locking pliers set to the right width. Be careful not to lose a keeper or worse yet, your eye!  Now that all the valves are in place you need soak those lifters in motor oil. Use a pan or the bottom part of a gallon jug and add enough oil to submerge the lifters.........  Let those soak overnight. In the meantime, you can clean up the camshaft journals and lobes with the Scotch Brite pad...........  Final step is installing the lifters, cam, and cam caps. Install the lifters, oil the cam lobes and install the camshaft and torque the caps to spec. |
|
|
|
| jordan | Nov 19 2009, 01:15 PM Post #15 |
Self Certified Garage Mechanic
|
I am looking at parts for mine, what are the valve guides, I do not see you say anything about them here? Do I need to order new ones? |
|
|
|
| 1 user reading this topic (1 Guest and 0 Anonymous) | |
| Go to Next Page | |
| « Previous Topic · Guides/How to · Next Topic » |
- Pages:
- 1
- 2
2:28 AM Feb 9
