Detailed 1.0L head rebuild guide

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Detailed 1.0L head rebuild guide; Replacing valves, cleaning lifters, etc
Topic Started: Mar 1 2009, 04:33 PM (4,816 Views)
Johnny Mullet	Nov 19 2009, 08:47 PM Post #16
"Geo Whisperer" Posts: 5,819 Group: Admins Member #1 Joined: Sep 7, 2008 Location Ashtabula, Ohio Year/Make/Model 97 & 98 Metro	The valve guides are pressed into the head and the valve stem seal seat directly on top of them. These only need replaced if the valve is sloppy in the guide.



nerys	Nov 20 2009, 03:39 PM Post #17
Grr Posts: 1,961 Group: Valued Members Member #1,240 Joined: Sep 25, 2009 Location Levittown PA USA Year/Make/Model 1994 Geo Metro Xfi	this is a top end rebuild right? is this something that can be done in a weekend? what about having the head ceramic'd to prevent rust and "look nice" how what that work? I eventually want to have NO exposed ferrous metal in my engine bay to prevent rust and make clean up easier. I just might have a camera for you jm. its only a 2mp (MORE than enough for this kind of stuff) but I think it has a macro mode which is what you really need. I will dig it up and see if it does. how do you remove a head? can any head from another engine fit my xfi engine? is it hard to YANK the whole head? they have a 3cyl (93 metro) at the local pic and pull they want $195 for the engine which alas I can not afford but I may ask what the cost is for the head. if its cheap enough and not too hard to remove in a day at the pic and pull I might get it and do a rebuild over the winter as I get the cash for the parts. Then I don't have to stop driving the metro to do it. is the head between the 93 metro and 94 xfi the same except for the cam? Edited by nerys, Nov 20 2009, 03:42 PM.



HavsCritiria	Mar 21 2010, 09:26 PM Post #18
Elite Member Posts: 152 Group: Members Member #2,036 Joined: Mar 21, 2010 Location Lauderhill Florida Year/Make/Model 1992 Geo Metro.	@ Johnny Mullet. Do you suggest i get the head resurfaced if i replace the head gasket? if so, should i DIY the resurfacing or should i spend the extra cash and take it to a machine shop?



Johnny Mullet	Mar 21 2010, 09:33 PM Post #19
"Geo Whisperer" Posts: 5,819 Group: Admins Member #1 Joined: Sep 7, 2008 Location Ashtabula, Ohio Year/Make/Model 97 & 98 Metro	I check the head with a straight edge first. If the head surface is fine, then I just clean it up with a roloc disc. If not, then let a machine shop mill the head until straight. You can go up to .050 safely.



HavsCritiria	Mar 21 2010, 11:01 PM Post #20
Elite Member Posts: 152 Group: Members Member #2,036 Joined: Mar 21, 2010 Location Lauderhill Florida Year/Make/Model 1992 Geo Metro.	thanks man, I appreciate it.



idmetro	Jun 15 2010, 10:00 PM Post #21
Advanced Member Posts: 122 Group: Members Member #1,094 Joined: Aug 12, 2009 Location Richmond, VA Year/Make/Model 1996 Geo Metro hatchback 1992 Geo Metro Vert	Johnny Mullet says: "Now you need a helper to insert the little valve retainers while you push the spring down with your thumbs or locking pliers set to the right width. Be careful not to lose a keeper or worse yet, your eye! You can also install the keepers with a socket and extension. Place the keepers into the hole in the proper position, push down hard on socket with extension over spring and wiggle slightly. This takes practice, but can be done!" Unfortunately for me I did not have a helper, a valve spring compressor, strong thumbs, or the ability to wiggle the keepers into place (yes, I tried and managed to get just one valve into place with almost an hours effort and sent a keeper flying clear across the garage which took another hour to locate...) so I felt I had to come with a more effective method before the head suffered mysterious but serious damage. Here is what I did - I took a piece of vacuum tubing with an i.d. a bit larger than the valve stem and cut it just long enough so that when inserted into a spark plug socket it sat flush with the face of the socket, then I put the keepers in position, placed the spark plug socket on top (with the tubing inside it) pushed down hard, then gently released the spring and the valve was set. the tubing helped gently nudge the keepers into position but had enough give to keep from pushing them out of position (I got 4 out of the remaining 5 on the first try). Hopefully this will save someone else some grief.



Johnny Mullet	Jun 16 2010, 06:41 AM Post #22
"Geo Whisperer" Posts: 5,819 Group: Admins Member #1 Joined: Sep 7, 2008 Location Ashtabula, Ohio Year/Make/Model 97 & 98 Metro	I have also been using the socket trick lately.



Kevin	Jul 5 2010, 12:58 PM Post #23
New Member Posts: 5 Group: Members Member #1,897 Joined: Feb 24, 2010 Location Dunnellon, FL Year/Make/Model '90 Metro HB auto, '92 Vert auto	Subscribed.



undgsx-R	Jul 27 2010, 09:43 PM Post #24
Self Certified Garage Mechanic Posts: 211 Group: Valued Members Member #1,414 Joined: Nov 11, 2009 Location Grand Forks/ Hutchinson Year/Make/Model '02 Nissan Altima	I am having troubles getting the all of the valve seals out, I am trying to use a pick, but the rubber is just tearing off, is there another way for me to get the rest of the seal out?



Johnny Mullet	Jul 27 2010, 10:04 PM Post #25
"Geo Whisperer" Posts: 5,819 Group: Admins Member #1 Joined: Sep 7, 2008 Location Ashtabula, Ohio Year/Make/Model 97 & 98 Metro	You need to get the pick under the seal at the bottom of the metal lip and work it around. These are a pain.



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