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| How to change fuel pump - 95+ Metro; fuel gauge issue | |
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| Topic Started: Apr 16 2009, 01:18 PM (1,609 Views) | |
| Manny | Apr 16 2009, 01:18 PM Post #1 |
 
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I took the time one of those past weekends to replace my fuel pump, I did it in two hours, which I think it would be less but I take the time to look everything related down there with too much patience.  The only pic I missed was the pump on it's place ready to immerse on the tank, but I think will be clear enough Pump is really easy to put on Here's the bottom part of the Geo,  Gas tank at least on 95-97 series has four bolts only, one on each side:  Then, looking from the back... on the right side you will find the gas filter and couple more hoses to disconnect, so make sure there's nothing else still connected there, otherwise you may bend something you don't really want to piss off... in fact, some components appear to be weak, anyway... then disconnect the feeding hose and air breather one:  This is how the tank looks when it's down:  The biggest plate is the one containing the fuel pump, just loose them all and pull it out. There are just one plug to connect and the little pump hose.  here's what the OEM pump looks like:  I also have a problem when filling out my tank, it never reaches the upper line to show it as full, I took the time to check the fuel lever as follows by loosen small plate bolts and here's what I have: (However after did all that problem it's the same, so I think it will be a gauge problem)  I pulled out the cap on one the opposite side protecting the lever module and got this:   There was too much dirt on it so I cleaned out with carburetor cleaner and then reassembled it Installation is being done at inverse Mount the tank, tide the bolts, connect right side things and main gas tank feeder. Unfortunately I just found the right hand sway bar mount broken:  So guess I should take care of it soon! Hope this info help you all ! Cheers!! don't forget to  to avoid dehydration ! 
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| Fireball 89 | Apr 16 2009, 01:45 PM Post #2 |
2.4 Cylinders of Determination
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Thank you Manny. This will be very helpful to us, when it comes time to work on our fuel tanks, fuel lines, fuel pumps, filler tubes, etc. Edward |
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| bennie442 | Apr 16 2009, 03:26 PM Post #3 |
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Good job, Manny! It's so much easier to do a job when instead of just reading about how it's done  , you have pictures to go along with it. Excellent post!
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| Manny | Apr 16 2009, 05:26 PM Post #4 |
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My pleasure folks! I think I'll post up my rebuild soon as well  I'm getting ready with parts prior to do that
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| Johnny Mullet | Apr 16 2009, 08:03 PM Post #5 |
"Geo Whisperer"
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Makes me want to change mine for the hell of it  Thanks for the informative post Manny! Very helpful to other Metro/Swift owners 
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| Rooy | Apr 17 2009, 11:52 AM Post #6 |
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Interesting to see the differences on the later models. Good tip on the fuel gauge sender. Cleaning up where the sweeper touches the resistance wire can fix a lot of problems with them. |
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| jeff | Apr 18 2009, 05:21 PM Post #7 |
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Great info - this site & people are great! Hope to see you @ Geopalooza. |
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| Will | Jun 7 2009, 10:16 AM Post #8 |
Victory is mine!!!!
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Good job Manny! Excellent post |
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| bogs | Feb 3 2010, 12:38 AM Post #9 |
Duct tape heals all wounds
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Whoa, timely link from BB sent me to this post. Excellant pictorial, but I do have a question. My Metro suffers the same not full reading when full. You said cleaning the contacts didn't correct that and that you think its the gauge, did you ever confirm that? Really curious before I go drop the tank (future project, as it is not at the top of the list of importance). |
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| Manny | Feb 10 2010, 11:09 PM Post #10 |
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Sorry to get late here, has been busy for a while ago due to a job change... Nice that you have asked that, actually I confirmed it is a gauge's common issue. Some time later after fuel pump job, I took the gauges off, and removed the front plastic, I played with the needle by hand, moving it from top to the bottom, no matter where do you leave it at the end, it will take the right position when you install it back.... and guess what: That SOLVED the problem for me, now I have a real full reading when filling up the tank to top.on a polite way to describe it: -guess the needle was to lazy about all the years it has been working, probably due to a previous owner that was the kind of person that use to drive with minimum gas in tank, we use to take it to full condition instead, so after I woke up the needle by hand and reinstalled it, it's working nicely again!!! Hope someone else can try it and let us know if same trick works! cheers to all fellows!!! 
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| bogs | Feb 11 2010, 02:24 AM Post #11 |
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Duct tape heals all wounds
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Waking up a gauge, ok, I never would have thought of that
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| rmcelwee | Feb 11 2010, 05:05 AM Post #12 |
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Just curious, how much was the new pump? |
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| Manny | Feb 12 2010, 02:58 AM Post #13 |
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I know its kinda crazy, but it really worked. 
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| Manny | Feb 12 2010, 03:09 AM Post #14 |
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sure my friend, new pump price (box said made in USA) was 18 dollars, a Bosch one cost 41 dollars, trust me, it´s an authentic bosch pump, which I think is cheap I´ve seen how expensive auto parts can be in the US, so I really love my country about that, same for machine shop jobs, a full head rebuild: surface grinding, deep cleaning and everything installed back with new valve seals for 50 dollars (no parts included) and can´t complain about job quAlity  my last example was an alternator rebuilt: 50 dollars in parts (regulator assy with brushes plus the two bearings for 55 dollars and 15 dollars in labor)  |
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| billy508 | Feb 12 2010, 05:43 AM Post #15 |
billy508
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Thanks.  Ithink I will put my cylinder head in my suitcase, Go here http://www.tripadvisor.com/Flights-g291982-Costa_Rica-Cheap_Discount_Airfares.html Get my stuff repaired , buy a fuel pump. have a good time and save some money. Oh Yea 
Edited by billy508, Feb 12 2010, 05:47 AM.
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