 Welcome to the all new Geo Metro Forum. We hope you enjoy your visit.You're currently viewing our forum as a guest. This means you are limited to certain areas of the board and there are features you can't use and images you can't see. Registration is simple, fast, and completely free. If you're already a member please log in to your account to access all of our features: Join our community! |
| Buyer's Info; Looking to purchase a Metro? | |
|---|---|
| Topic Started: May 18 2009, 08:42 AM (1,519 Views) | |
| Johnny Mullet | May 18 2009, 08:42 AM Post #1 |
Hi-Tech Redneck
|
 So you are wanting to buy a Geo Metro or Suzuki Swift? I suspect you are interested in this purchase because of the great fuel economy these cars get and not for the creature comforts. Well, before taking the plunge, there are a few things you should know about these cars so please read on........... The Metro is small, but surprisingly roomy inside even for a large person and the hatchback models can haul a lot of cargo especially with the rear seat folded. The Geo Metro from 1989-1994 are the lightest models, but they due lack the safety features found in the 1995+ models like Airbags, better side impact design, anti-swaybars, ect. As far as comfort goes, these cars are great for local driving and fine for long trips, but the seats (especially older models) can get a little uncomfortable. The interior design is functional and everything is in reach, but there are no frills. Be aware that 1995-1997 models seem to have Dashboard Cancer issues with the dashboard material fading and deteriorating. Interior carpet also seems to wear out fast on all models. The body styling is nice on all models, but the body panels dent very easily. Finding a Metro with no dents would not be easy. Some models have composite headlamps which are prone to fogging or discoloring, but can usually be restored from kits available at parts stores. External mirrors are also easily broken off due to the very short screws holding them on. Longer screws will fix this issue. The available engines are the 1.0L 3 cylinder G10 and the 1.3L 4 cylinder G13. Please understand that a Metro is a commuter car and not a performance car. The average person used to driving average American vehicles may deem the Metro engine weak or underpowered. There are Performance Parts available to give your engine more power. These engines will last a long time when maintained properly and if you do encounter problems, these engines are really easy to work on or even rebuild if inclined to do so. There is plenty of info on this forum on engine repairs and DIY threads to help you get on the road to better fuel mileage. The manual transmission will last a long time as long as the fluid is changed regular and the car is not beat on. Changing out the factory gear oil with Synchromesh oil will improve shifting performance. Down shifting these cars generally add more stress to them and trying to jam the shifter into 2nd or first gear while moving at speeds above 25 MPH is not recommended. This can prematurely wear the synchros and is a common issue caused by this. As long as the car is rolling, there is no need to put the transmission in 1st gear. Automatic transmissions will also last if the fluid is changed regularly, but be aware that a Metro with an automatic will not get the fuel mileage as a standard shift model since the auto is a 3 speed with no overdrive. The deal breaker with these cars is the frame rust issues they have if the car is from areas that see winter. The known problem area is the lower control arm mounts. These can rust away to the point that the wheel can separate from the vehicle. Rocker panels and floorboards also rust, but can be repaired. Another area is the rear inner wheel wells on 1995+ models can rust and create holes. More info on frame rot can be found HERE and other threads on the forum. So what to do when looking for a Metro? First, make a good visual inspection of the body including the rocker panels and check the frame at the front control arm mounts. If you find the car to be rust free or no issues, then you have a good, solid chassis to work with. Move to the interior and make sure the headlamps work. To do this on 1995+ models equipped with daytime running lights, turn the key on, set the parking brake, and then turn on the headlamps. If they do not come on, then there is a problem at the fusebox wiring that can be repaired. More info on the headlamp issues can be read HERE. Take a peak under the hood and look for oil leaks. Some leaks are usually minor and can be fixed easily. Look at the condition of the oil for evidence of poor maintenance. Start the engine and let it warm up. A 3 cylinder may not idle perfectly smooth due to natural balance, but should not shake badly. A 4 cylinder model should idle smooth as glass. If the engine runs poorly, then you must decide whether it's a spark problem or a dead cylinder. If the Check Engine light is on, the codes may reveal the problem. You could always take a compression tester with you and test the compression in all cylinders. This will determine if the engine has internal issues. A common reason for rough idle or low power is burnt exhaust valves from timing settings or maintenance issues. Minimum compression readings should be no less than 156 PSI. If you find a cylinder with low compression, then expect to do at least a top end rebuild. Read the Compression Test How To for detailed info. Also note that a car running on a dead cylinder may clog the catalytic converter and cause low power. Test drive is the most important part of any purchase. While you are driving, take note of any noises coming from the transmission or wheel bearings. Look for smoke behind the car and also start turning on accessories like the heater, A/C (if equipped) and take note of any smell of coolant or oil while driving. The transmission should shift without making noises and be sure the brakes work. Don't be afraid to take it for a long run from in-town to highway speeds. Getting the car to operating temperature will reveal any coolant system or oiling issues. So what is the car worth? Well, depending on the current price of fuel, the prices on these cars can vary a lot. If you have a solid chassis, then regardless of engine or trans problems, the car is worth repairing if you really want to save money on fuel in the long run. You will get the best fuel mileage from a 3 cylinder 5 speed model. A 4 cylinder with a 5 speed is a rare find, but will get decent numbers also. The automatic version on average will get 35-38 MPG depending on condition, driving habits, etc. If the car has rust issues, then you need to decide if you want to repair the frame or not. A frame can be repaired to last a long time, but finding a shop to do this repair could be a challenge due to liability issues. Good frame, no rust, runs great, looks good expect to pay anywhere from $2000.00 to $7000.00 depending on current fuel prices. Fuel prices really determine the value of these cars. Good frame, some rust, needs cosmetic and or engine/trans work you can expect a range from $500.00 to $2000.00 Frame rust issues, but runs and drives good, pay no more than $500.00 since a car like this is generally considered junk. If it has rust issues and runs poorly offer them scrap value. I happened to purchase a 1998 Metro that had a slew of problems. Basically my Metro (Christine) was a "Worst case scenario" purchase. The engine had a dead cylinder requiring a top end rebuild. The transmission went bad a month later, then the exhaust fell off, the brakes went bad, and then I discovered the dreaded frame rot. Normally, I would have scrapped the car with so many issues, but this car was saving me over $300.00 per month on fuel costs compared to driving my 4X4 truck so I was determined to keep this car on the road. You can see the entire project HERE. I have had the car almost 2 years now and it has already paid me back even after performing all these repairs. The car has also been very reliable after getting all the bugs sorted out. The wife and I loved the car so much, we got another Geo Metro and I did a complete makeover on it and now we save even more money on fuel costs. Depending on your situation, you must make a judgment call before purchasing any car. We are here to help you with that decision. |
 |
 
|
| Woodie | May 19 2009, 06:11 AM Post #2 |
 
|
That's brilliant, should be on Wikipedia. |
|
|
|
| Cobb | May 19 2009, 10:11 AM Post #3 |
|
What I do when I look for a used car is check the fluids. Are all the fluids the right colors and do they smell funny. Is the tranny fluid if automatic burnt. Is the engine oil creme color or black as coal. Is the car warm when you come by to test drive. Does it smoke at start up, under hard acceleration or when you slide your foot off the gas. Does the tranny slip? Take it to highway speed legally somewhere and around the block. Does the cvc joints knock when turning? Why is the car for sale and does the seller have any other cars for sale. |
|
|
|
| Potter | Jul 12 2009, 07:30 PM Post #4 |
Audio Nut
|
 Ill have to remember these things when i go to buy a Metro Vert  And also if your going to buy a Metro Vert. and they arent shure of the condition of the Vinal top have them spray it with a garden hose and you sit in the car checking All arround your tears are most common arround the stiching, and arround all weather striping, also do a visual inspection of the weather striping as well. |
|
|
|
| Geodude | Jul 28 2009, 12:26 PM Post #5 |
New Member
  ![]](http://209.85.62.24/static/1/pip_r.png)
|
"Does the cvc joints knock when turning? " I think I have heard this, care to elaborate? Solutions? |
|
|
|
| Fireball 89 | Jul 28 2009, 04:28 PM Post #6 |
2.4 Cylinders of Determination
|
Hi Geodude- The knocking, clicking, or ticking when driving and turning the front wheels are an audio indication the constant velocity (CV) joints have worn out. When you hear the clicking sound the CV joint is beyond maintenance and repair. The joint will continue to deteriorate becoming louder and then begins making sounds on straight line acceleration, coast, and straight line braking. Eventually, a definite "judder" will be felt in the drive line and gearshift. The next level will be catastrophic failure, possibly damaging your transmission and suspension. When a CV joint begin knocking, clicking, or ticking, plan on replacing it. I understand with our vehicles, it is easier and cheaper to replace the whole drive axle (with CV joints) rather than just a single CV joint. When one CV joint reaches the end of its service life, the chances are very high the other three are right behind it. Hope this helps. Edward |
|
|
|
| 1 user reading this topic (1 Guest and 0 Anonymous) | |
| « Previous Topic · Metro Tech · Next Topic » |
2:28 AM Feb 9
