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| stubborn head bolts; can't get the headbolts off | |
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| Topic Started: Jul 2 2009, 05:05 PM (251 Views) | |
| scooby | Jul 2 2009, 05:05 PM Post #1 |
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Hey guys, another I need help topic, figured I'd see if any of your more experienced mechanics could give me some tips on removing the head bolts. These headbolts look lilke they have been replaced before, because I own a 97 metro, and it didn't have the torx head. Im thinking someone has had the head off before me, and maybe had installed the new headbolts in dry, or something because I can barely move them. They make a little popping noise, like a bolt that is right about to break loose, but these just wont break loose. I'm no small guy, 250 lbs, and my buddy is around 180, and we were both pushing on the 1/2 wrench and could not get them to budge. So, do you guys have any tips? Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks |
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| Manny | Jul 2 2009, 05:17 PM Post #2 |
 
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Took a big wrench put your left hand on top of the extension where it connects to the wrench... right hand at the end of the wrench and turn it out counterclockwise slowly, try to "pump it", these engines does not have the torx type head bolts and opening up for the first time is kind of difficult. |
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| x guy | Jul 2 2009, 05:55 PM Post #3 |
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New Member
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Do you have a torch? Use some heat. |
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| Johnny Mullet | Jul 2 2009, 08:42 PM Post #4 |
"Geo Whisperer"
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I have done my 1998 which had 10MM 12 point bolt heads. The older models have 14MM standard bolt heads. 3Tech and some other types are 8MM Allen and not torx. I am not busting anyone's balls by saying this, but make sure you are using the proper socket or bit and make sure the tool is high quality or your gonna knock your buddy or yourself out with one hell of a whack. Also make sure it is a quality tool. Cheap tools cause more damage and cost more in the long run. OK, now on with this job.................. Use the socket and or bit with an extension (preferrably a cheap one for this) and hold it firmly while striking it with a hammer with good, square blows. Don't be afraid to whack 'em real good about 3-4 times. Now use the shortest 1/2" drive extension you can use where you are just above the head and can get a good push or pull on it with a good, long breaker bar. Hold the extension where the breaker bar meets with one hand and with the other, push as straight as possible and don't be afraid. When I did Fred's head rebuild on "The Weekend Rebuild" thread, he was surprised when I broke out my 36" 1/2" drive breaker bar and a cheater pipe! The bolts can be stubborn and tight, so the worst thing that can happen now is you can round it. That is where the quality tool comes in handy. When you hear the bolt start to "creak", that means they are loosening, so you need to keep applying even pressure and slowly increase that force on the breaker without jouncing or reefing on it. It never hurts to strike a real stubborn bolt a few more times with the hammer while trying. Penetrating oil may work if the moved enough to get any kind of gap, but doubtful. If you get one to loosen some, but then get tighter, then it's OK to turn the bolt a little the opposite way to get some rust broken free. Last case. If the feel like they are going to strip, get some torches from somewhere and heat the bolt head until it's glowing red careful not to melt the aluminum, so you have to keep the torches moving slowly. Let them cool some to allow the heat to transfer down the bolt shaft and repeat a couple more times to ensure heat got to the threaded area. Let cool some and try again. Good luck! If you break one, we can help. |
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| geocat32987 | Jul 2 2009, 10:20 PM Post #5 |
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I've broken three of my exhaust manifold bolts already, but the other ones are so tight it's like they're welded in there. The heads are beyond round, I've even tried filing the sides to create squareness, but to no avail. This vert was originally from Ohio, so I'm guessing the salt really fused things together.  Didn't mean to hijack the thread, sorry 
Edited by geocat32987, Jul 2 2009, 10:23 PM.
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| scooby | Jul 3 2009, 01:44 AM Post #6 |
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Well, we got all of them off, except three on the exhaust side, we use quality tools, all craftsman and snap-on tools. We were using a 18inch breaker bar, but we just couldn't quite the last three off, no one I know has anything bigger than a 18 inch breaker bar, and I don't know how easy it would be to keep square to the bolt head with anything longer than 18 inches. We're thinking the next step will be a impact, and try to apply just enough torque with the impact to break it loose, and not break the head off. If I did break the head off I would feel better, then what it is now, because then ill be able to get some penetrating oil down to the threads. If anyone has anymore tips it would still be greatly appreciated, you can never have too many opinions for a problem. |
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| x guy | Jul 3 2009, 07:01 AM Post #7 |
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I assume you do not have a torch, so find a piece of pipe to fit over the breaker bar that will extend your leverage. Pump it verses pushing hard. |
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| 3tech | Jul 3 2009, 10:02 AM Post #8 |
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Take a big punch, and big hammer, and hit the bolts on the top, about 6 times, as hard as you can, then try removing them. Just be careful you don't damage the head. |
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| scooby | Jul 3 2009, 12:41 PM Post #9 |
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I could get a torch, but honestly I'm scared of warping the head. I'll try hitting them with a punch, thanks again guys. |
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| metroschultz | Jul 3 2009, 02:29 PM Post #10 |
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NHRA N E 1
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Do not be afraid. I have broken head bolts before. Not on a Geo but on several Ford products. (Damn modular V8s) Once the bolt is broken, Remove the head in a straight up fashion, and yes you may have to find somewhere to pry on it without damage. Then the remaining bolt(s) will be easily accessible. Weld a 1/2 inch nut on the end of the shaft and wait for it to cool (per JM) then turn it out like any other bolt. TaDa Done. You were going to use new head bolts anyway, Right? |
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| scooby | Jul 3 2009, 03:52 PM Post #11 |
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Oh yeah, reusing the head bolts was never a option, my neighbor has a beast of a impact that ill use if all else fails im just trying to not round off the bolt heads. Why the hell do they never give you 6pt 1/2 inch drive sockets in a set? Very annoying. |
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| metroschultz | Jul 3 2009, 05:40 PM Post #12 |
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NHRA N E 1
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You can buy good quality 6 point sockets at Sears (or KMart now sells Craftsman) and then you don't have to worry about that whole rounding off thing. At our shop we have a guy who will weld an old socket to the fastener and take it out that way. |
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| scooby | Jul 3 2009, 09:22 PM Post #13 |
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Got a 6point impact socket, and a impact rated at 400ftlbs...no dice. Little annoying now.  My neighbors got a beast IR 220v compressor and a impact rated at 1000 ft lbs, instant bolt heads snapped. 
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