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98 metro died at intersection today; 98 metro died wont restart help
Topic Started: Aug 24 2009, 01:57 PM (4,085 Views)
jbelgarde
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my 98 metro 3cylinder died today at an intersection.It will only restart or almost start when starter fluid is sprayed in to the tb.do you think i should change the fuel filter and the fuel pump.or should i trouble shoot better before changing them...any help would be appreciated as i am getting it towed back to my house in a couple hours.this car has been great to me and has been running awesome until this..thanks in advance
JohnB :(
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Johnny Mullet
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Fear the Mullet

If it runs on starting fluid, it could be a fuel pressure issue. There is no fuel filter since it's part of the pump assy. To be sure it's a fuel issue, you need to hook in a fuel pressure gauge and monitor the readings. Report back with those results.
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crankcase


Listen for the whirr of the fuel pump (with key on, not motor so you can hear). Whirr sound should last about a couple of seconds.

With a helper, try and start car while looking into intake to look for spray pattern from working injector (use a mirror so you don't have to put face over intake).
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Johnny Mullet
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Was any previous work been done to it recently?
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jbelgarde
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update ...so i get out of work a buddy picks me up we go to my car waiting for towing.he tells me to try to start it,car starts right up so i say follow me home about 10 miles no problem..park car at my house run and do some errands about 45 mimutes later i come home and try to start it wont start.wtf i hate problems like this i have had this car for a year no problems now this where should i start???
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Johnny Mullet
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Don't get upset. Shit like this happens all the time with all kinds of vehicles. At least with that Metro, you got some help right here.

Again, was there any recent work done to the car? If not, then is the check engine light on?
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jbelgarde
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johhny,
no recent work and no check engine light.the car over the last year has had new cap,wires,sparkplugs,filter,econocam ,filters changed.i am just baffled and need a good starting point to troubleshoot as this is an intermittent problem so should i start with fuel pressure??
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Johnny Mullet
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I would. Get a gauge plumbed into the main fuel line and tape it to the windshield. While you are driving, you can monitor the pressure.
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crankcase


Also, check for a vacuum leak: inspect hoses, listen for a sucking sound at idle. Check the computer for pending codes.
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metrojoe
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smokin'

scan it anyway
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jbelgarde
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i have a scan gauge and no codes were present,I just ordered a inline fuel pressure gauge from summit.i am ruling out ignition since it wanted to start with started fluid.it just seems strange that one minute it starts no problem and alittle later it wont start at all.how can i tell if i have a bad injector if it wont start but has fuel pressure before??i really appreciate all your responses to this....
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mwebb
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FOG

jbelgarde
Aug 25 2009, 09:47 AM
i have a scan gauge and no codes were present,I just ordered a inline fuel pressure gauge from summit.i am ruling out ignition since it wanted to start with started fluid.it just seems strange that one minute it starts no problem and alittle later it wont start at all.how can i tell if i have a bad injector if it wont start but has fuel pressure before??i really appreciate all your responses to this....
you have to have some basic test equipment like a DVOM and a test light and a vacuum gauge .

the injector gets powered up by the fuel pump relay with the engine running ,
so check BOTH pins of the injector by sticking in a "T" pin under the weatherpac to make the connection WITHOUT disconnecting the injector

when you switch key to on fuel pump relay powers up the injector and fuel pump for a few seconds only .

so connect your DVOM or test light , one side to battery negative , the other to either injector pin , switch key to on , is there 12 volts present ?
switch to the other injector pin
switch key to on , is there 12 volts present ?
if BOTH pins do not have 12 volts present key on engine off , injector coil is open injector is bad OR you did not make a good connection to one injector pin ...

if yes to both , both injector pins have 12 volts present key on engine off ...
connect test light to either injector pin and the other lead of the test light to battery POSITIVE
crank starter , does the light BLINK ?
if NO connect to the other injector pin
crank starter , does the light BLINK ?

if one injector pin blinks with respect to battery negative while cranking the starter ...
the PCM and engine speed sensors and circuitry is good ,

either injector itself is bad OR there is no fuel present .
remove fuel line , put it into a container like a oil bottle , switch key to ON , is fuel flowing under pressure to container for a few seconds ?
if yes
injector is bad
..........................................
if testing above does not reveal the problem
there is another possibility ....

stuffed exhaust -
engine at idle when it will run , connect vacuum gauge "Teed" into MAP sensor vacuum line
at idle vacuum must be about 20 to 21"
at 2k RPM vacuum must be about 2" higher than idle value
if vacuum is lower at 2k rpm then at idle .... very likely exhaust is clogged
remove front exhaust pipe and re test

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jbelgarde
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excellent info thanks i will use that to troubleshoot..you guys are master metro mechanics :rocker
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jbelgarde
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update:thanks guys used your tips and it turned out to be the injector.easy install and excellent results .thanks to all you metro masters :beer
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zharris
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where is a good place to get the injector from and how much $?
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