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2000 Chevy Metro; Interior and Drive Restoration
Topic Started: Aug 31 2009, 12:30 PM (2,415 Views)
Didriksen
T-Dog Loc OG
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Ok Well I got some new parts in today: I got both my Valves in, Intake and exhaust.
Also my Thrust whasher and Crank shaft bearings and cam bearings.
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I would like to also add my electric door locks mod, I dont know what these parts came out of all I know is they were left over junk. Its just 2 syloniods I had.
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Johnny Mullet
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"Geo Whisperer"

This restoration is getting better :thumb
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Didriksen
T-Dog Loc OG
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OK so I have been slcking with keeping up on posts.... The motor is well....... take a look...

The clean block
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I am really happy with the head turn out, I put high flowing intake and exhaust valves in and soda blasted it and went through the head.
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Here is the door locks I still need to fill the gaps and add the plate for the top
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I also re-sparayed the center console and carpet.
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here are the pistons in, they are high compression.
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Motor in!
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Interior.
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New clutch and presure plate, clutch is a stage 1, 4 puck also put in new bearings (sorry no pic :shake )
here it is!
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Now for the problems, I dont remember what these are/where they go?
Can someone help me out please so i can start the Dang thing here are the pics
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Hose 90 degree's
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Bad Bent
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Facetious Educated Donkey

Check out How to pull a G10.

The large socket has to connect with something fairly close but I don't recognize it.

Second pic is of the Throttle Body ground wires, see #19 in starscream5000's link.

The small wire may be a starter/solenoid wire, My '91's schematic shows a B/Y wire going to the solenoid.

Does #13 in the link above show the 90 deg. hose? It may connect the TB with the piping on the firewall.

Hi, nice job cleaning that shiny block. B-)
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Didriksen
T-Dog Loc OG
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the hose was for the water neck to intake manifold
the harness is for the wiper motor
the others were gounds
and the single wire was for the silenoid
I started the car last night and somthings wrong with the auto tensioner for the timing belt
I will be looking in to this today.
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starscream5000
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AKA 95_G105spd

The bracket that the spring attaches to is probably your issue. It goes on the back of the tensioner only one correct way. The tensioner has a hole in the back of it that is just the right size for the tensioner bracket's bent portion to fit into. If it's not in the small hole on the back of the tensioner and just back there in the recessed part of the tensioner bearing, the tensioner will never tighten the belt up correctly. It may also sound strange as well.

Very nice build thread by the way. :thumb
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Didriksen
T-Dog Loc OG
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Ok so now I have a New problem on my hands, piston 1 is being flooded with gas and the car wont start I will be looking in to this over the next couple of days.
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CityConnection
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This is you, so you must be online

Well this is a TBI engine so it shouldn't be a problem with the injector or every cylinder would be full... Where does the fuel pressure regulator get it's vacuum? If it gets it from the 1st cylinder intake runner I would check and see if the regulator has gone bad and fuel is being forced into the vac line.

Of course this is from dealing with a Ford 2.3 engine and may not apply here.

Also check and see if the carbon canister is full of fuel.
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Mr Murf 59
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Looking like a lost Irish tourist

Are the fuel lines hooked up properly? One is fuel in, the other fuel return. Just a thought. Everything looks great man. Nice looking work
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Didriksen
T-Dog Loc OG
[ *  *  * ]
IT LIVES !!!
Well I made a small error when setting the ignition timing, I set it 180 degree's off.
Fixed that and it fired up no problem I felt like a ass but I'm feeling good now.
Ill post pics later today.
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Bad Bent
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Facetious Educated Donkey

Wahoo!! :guitar
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