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Performance: Revisit Cold Air Induction; A Ram Air Story by BadBent It's baaack!
Topic Started: Sep 13 2009, 11:14 AM (3,491 Views)
Bad Bent
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Facetious Educated Donkey

After some of our chats, I realized my Geo's performance had been off for the couple of months. This Summer's projects being the 3Tech's 218/350 cam and cam gear plus a strut tower brace that improved handling but interfered with the air cleaner so I went with Warm Air Induction. I revisited my tower strut brace/air cleaner interference problem after rereading _Scratch_'s intake mods on TS. I used ABS Cement to reassemble the air cleaner. Found two great Ram Air information sites and re-installed it. Good reads: MGB Cold Air Induction and Siting Cold Air Intakes. The latter induced me to go 'colder dense air regardless of pressure' and use my 4" collector just under the bumper.

Story: Last night I was driving 30 miles to the next town to see a friend. Doing 105 Kph (65 mph) and it sounded great! It likes CAI Ram Air. There's a 300'+ elevation climb (short hill) with a passing lane and I was following a small car. I dropped to 4th at the start of the climb, and then 3rd to pass, still doing 105 (65 mph) at 6,000 rpm. :rocker I even took the 40 mph (64 Kph) sweeping turn, middle lane, at 105 and it stuck very well while passing the car. Strut tower brace :thumb . :rocker On the way back I had no drop off climbing the back side of this hill in 4th at 60 mph. B-)

Conclusion; The 218/350 cam, on my engine, likes 92 octane and cold air. Yes it's Ram Air and maybe only neutral pressure at the air filter but it likes it. Besides, it's colder more dense air so more air is getting in regardless. I saw my gas mpg go up with each increase in octane. Even if 1/4 of my last tank was at 65 mph I got 50.2 mpg even with my hill climbing stunt just before the fill-up. B-)
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Murf 59
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What kind of seats are those? Or are they covers? How well does your new cam idle?
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Bad Bent
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Facetious Educated Donkey

Just cheap eBay seat covers over the stock seats to cover up the rips, tears and stains from the previous passengers and drivers. I'll make my own thank you very much. :lol

Referring to this video?
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I know I need one of it under load. :smackface
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Murf 59
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Sounds really nice BB. What is that red canister on the pass side strut tower? It looks like it has fuel lines going to it. Maybe an old fashioned canister style fuel filter? I need new seat covers too.
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Bad Bent
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Facetious Educated Donkey

Thanks! B-)
Red thingy? $20 eBay catch can. Stock fuel filter under the drivers seat.
Some cool flame seat cover on eBay for under $30 shipped. click: eBay Flame Seat Covers B-) B-)
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mwebb
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FOG

"Good reads: MGB Cold Air Induction and Siting Cold Air Intakes. The latter induced me to go 'colder dense air regardless of pressure' and use my 4" collector just under the bumper.
"


.................................
i only read article 2
using that pressure switch is one way ,
but using a U shaped tube full of water strapped on the passenger seat with one side of the U sealed and connected to a long plastic tube . would give you a way to measure relative pressure as opposed to just crossing a threshold .

measureing pressure in inches of water gives you the ability to measure very small differences in pressure .
placing the plastic line in various places in the front of the car will give up the area with highest pressure .

having said that ;
i think ducting the guppy mouth or 1/2 of the guppy mouth to feed the air intake would yield higher pressure and flow than just having the inlet tube out there in front like that .

do not hit a deep puddle at speed
you will hydro-lock your engine , everything inside will be broken. everything .
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Murf 59
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Not trying to sound just like a complete dufuss, but what do you mean catch can? Doh! Man I am begining to think my fingers have had too much :beer :beer :beer
Edited by Murf 59, Sep 14 2009, 10:49 PM.
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Potter
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Col. Potter

PCV oil blowby... catch can.... that little 3 way hose that conects at the cam cover, pcv valve and the air cleaner.... bypass the PCV valve by caping it, run a hose from the cam cover outlet to the inlet of the catch can, run a hose from the outlet of the catch can back to the air filter... that way all the solids and oil caused by blow by wont be sucked into the air filter... but all the gases thats suposed to make the car run more efecent can still be recyled back into the engine. and it has something to do with vacume and all that jazz... still a newb when it comes to understanding how everything works.
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Murf 59
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I have had the end of that hose disconnected where it goes into the aircleaner for sometime. The unburned Hyd. carbons do not make for a clean burn in your combustion chamber. You are not having a vacum loss there. I can understand wanting to catch the solids. But had not heard it expressed that way.
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Bad Bent
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Facetious Educated Donkey

:gp Potter, thanks.

mwebb, I'll revisit the guppy mouth, I was thinking of a $20 Shop Vac vacuum attachment from Ace in the beginning. That's the lower cost hardware store within 100 miles. :banghead The only car parts store is $NAPA$.

The Ram Air was an experiment in the first place. Low cost experiment I might add. The PVC was cheap. The collector is even with the front of the bumper but the guppy mouth is recessed and could, should be a higher pressure area, I agree. Thanks, mwebb!
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99metro
putt-putt

Interesting. Currently I have my intake back to stock. 60+ mpg repeatable. I may need to experiment a little with the ram air intake. I still have my dryer vent stored with the spare tire.
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Bad Bent
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Facetious Educated Donkey

99metro
Sep 15 2009, 10:36 AM
Interesting. Currently I have my intake back to stock. 60+ mpg repeatable. I may need to experiment a little with the ram air intake. I still have my dryer vent stored with the spare tire.
Can't argue with 60+ mpg. :thumb 99metro. Pulling in cooler air from the RF bumper is a good thing. Those dryer vents look great! B-)

I was simply looking to make life a little easier for the G10... so it didn't have to use so much energy pulling air through some box in the fender. Of course not wanting to get a new cone air filter saved me from pulling warm air from the engine compartment. Article #2, 1st line: "These days, most people know that placing an exposed airfilter under the bonnet is just asking for the engine to take big breaths of hot air." That seemed to kill my mpg over the last month.

It's certainly fun. I'm off to the hardware store to get a new intake like mwebb suggested. think about it! :hmm
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Murf 59
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It is neat when you can go to the hardware store and get performance parts for your Metro. Most of the parts house's I asked that same Q to, just laughed. Then I found this spot and felt right at home
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mwebb
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FOG

ok ,
you have the honor and privilege of being the Guinea pig, or prototype test pilot.
if it gives you an improvement then i will have to implement something similar ...
i would also straighten out the 90 degree bend as best as possible , the one in your duct work near near the air filter , straighter tubing / pipe flows better .

looking forward to your test results
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Bad Bent
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Facetious Educated Donkey

So Ace is the place for Geo performance parts, right Mr. Murf!

I know, mwebb. 90 degree bends cut the speed in half? I can't find the original Web page but there will be reductions. Can't really avoid it short of drilling a hole in the hood to the right of the headlight. The best may be to drill a hole in the center of the bumper.

Second best is the new Shop Vac attachment under the bumper. Area = Pi x R sq. then the collector is only 12.56636 square inches for an opening. The new attachment is 14 x 2.5 or 35 square inches of opening. :hmm :whistle I'm going to have to cut more, and rivet it to the bumper maybe and relocate my license plate and my 'used only once' fog lamp.

Still the hose goes through the black plate and up to the air cleaner. Maybe some 2.5" Shop Vac Flex hose would work better, eh.

The white tube is an improvement over the PVC joints. You might want to bookmark this page: Venturi Flowmeter Calculator for reference on venturi effects.
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