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High Idle
Topic Started: Oct 5 2009, 11:57 AM (1,985 Views)
fixhercar
Fresh Fish
[ * ]
Hello, I am having a high idle issue. 2000 rpm when cold. After warm up, it "Hunts" from 1750 to 2250 rpms, unloaded. It drives fine but acts up when stopped. It is the 1 liter, manual, w/unibody injection. It has new plugs and Dis. Cap. The Idle Adjust screw does not lower the rpms. ???? I hope this is a easy/cheap fix !!!! Thank you for your time.
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mwebb
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FOG


in descending order of probability ....

1; Vacuum leak from rotted vacuum line or brake booster line
2: incorrectly adjusted throttle plate or throttle cable
a ; which holds the throttle open letting in extra air and
b ; causing the closed throttle switch to never close , so idle circuit never switches to "ON"
3; TPS throttle position sensor is incorrectly adjusted or non functional , or
a: TPS ground is bad which elevates closed throttle switch value AND TPS value so
idle circuit never switches to "ON"
b; TPS value closed throttle should be about .5 volts , TPS ground MUST be within 50mv or .050 volts or less from battery negative with engine running hi beams on and heater blower maxed
4; ignition timing is way off should be around 8 degrees btdc with the little pins jumpered
5; failed IAC idle air control
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Bad Bent
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Facetious Educated Donkey

Welcome to the forum, fixhercar! :coffee
What mwebb said. :thumb
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Woodie
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Idle Control Motor or Idle Air Controller, they all do it eventually. I've heard that disconnecting the vacuum hose and plugging it will settle things out.
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Metro_caon
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Elite Member
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I had the same problem... when I got my metro, I noticed the hose plugged as WOODIE suggests. As soon as I unplugged it and connected it correctly under the air cleaner connection, the high idle started :(

Does any body know how to check the "Idle Control Motor or Idle Air Controller" or whatever could be involved here causing the high idle and...

What happens if I just plug it as suggested? It will solve the high idle problem but I know it will hurt something else. The idle adjustment screw does not lower the rpm.
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pancakeron
New Member
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save yourselves time and trouble, scroll up to "post #2"
of this thread, follow the suggestions as listed...

oh, snap! here's post#2 right here:
mwebb
 

"In Descending Order of Probability..."

1... Vacuum Leak, from rotted vacuum line or brake booster line
.
2... Incorrectly Adjusted Throttle Plate or Throttle Cable
. a; which holds the throttle open letting in extra air,
. b; causing the closed throttle switch to never close ,
. so idle circuit never switches to "ON"
.
3... TPS (throttle position sensor) is incorrectly adjusted or non functional , or TPS Ground is Bad which elevates Closed Throttle Switch Value, AND TPS Value, so idle circuit never switches to "ON"
. a... TPS Value (closed throttle), Should be about .5 volts ,
. b...TPS Ground, from Battery Negative,MUST be within 50mv (.050 volts),
. (with engine running, hi beams on, and heater blower maxed)
. .
4; Ignition Timing is Way Off, should be around 8 degrees btdc with the little pins jumpered
.
5; Failed IAC (Idle Air Control)
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