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Chad's Build Thread; Just like energizer bunny...it just keeps going and going and going!!!!
Topic Started: Oct 20 2009, 11:59 PM (12,042 Views)
Cobb
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Yeah, I need to look around. If I am going to cruse at 70-80 for hours I should get better bearings and pistons. I think of my metro as my race car, but looks like I ruined the engine in 2 thousand miles.
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chads4dr


UPDATE: Today me and some friends disassembled the spare engine of mine, it looks very good for having 390k miles! I'm still gathering parts, but I'm more motivated now that I have confirmed my suspicions...... I have a bad headgasket :( I first realized when I noticed my coolant resivoir had a black nasty sludge in it and a bad odor, after some testing it was confirmed. Here are some pictures my friend took.

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Murf 59
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Nice looking pics Chad. A good rule of thumb, with an OHC engine, don't set it on the flat surface when the cam is still on. Its a fast way to bend your valves. Just a heads up. sorry for the pun LOL
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chads4dr


thanx for the tip (those valves are trash anyway) :)
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Potter
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Col. Potter

Lookin good Chad :thumb keep up the good work with that 4dr speed deamon!!!!

I still chalange you to a race at next years Geopalooza!!!
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chads4dr


Potter
Dec 16 2009, 06:14 PM
Lookin good Chad :thumb keep up the good work with that 4dr speed deamon!!!!

I still chalange you to a race at next years Geopalooza!!!
i might beat ya!!! Im getting the even lumpier 365/222 cam soon too :) and were porting the exhaust manifold to match my awesomely ported 3tech head :)
Edited by chads4dr, Dec 17 2009, 12:54 PM.
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chads4dr


*************************UPDATE***********************

Well lots and lots of buying :) Here is my checklist for parts and what I've bought.

Rebuild Checklist For Metro

__Bought?________________Item________________Where From________________Cost

____YES____________Complete Gasket Set_______partsdinosaur.com_____________$60
____YES____________FELPRO Headgasket________rockauto.com_________________$45
____YES____________Rod bearings______________partsdinosaur.com_____________$17
____YES____________Main bearings_____________partsdinosaur.com______________$22
____YES____________Thrust bearings____________partsdinosaur.com______________$7
____YES____________Timing belt________________partsdinosaur.com______________$14
____YES____________Timing belt tensioner________partsdinosaur.com______________$29
____YES____________Water pump_______________partsdinosaur.com______________$30
____NO_____________3tech headbolts___________teamswift.net/3tech_____________$30
____NO_____________Permatex gasket spray______various sources________________$10


All these things above are required for my build. The things below were optional but I wanted them. The reason I wanted the 4cyl flywheel is because it is much lighter than the 3cyl flywheel, and it has a larger clutch disk, so its a win win, and a direct bolt on!

____YES____________Denso OEM O2 Sensor_______rockauto.com__________________$100
____YES____________Flywheel from 4cyl__________EBAY_________________________$40
____YES____________Sachs 4cyl Clutch Kit_________rockauto.com__________________$110
____YES____________Motor Mounts (2 of 3)________rockauto.com__________________$50
____YES____________Coolant Hoses______________rockauto/autozone_____________$20



These items below are my "wish list items". Its not priorty to get these items but they are definatly wanted later on after the engine is done!

____NO____________Suzukird underdrive pulley_____suzukird.com__________________$100
____NO____________Gauge pod for A/F & boost_____suzukird.com__________________$100
____NO____________C/V Shafts (both)____________rockauto.com__________________$130
____NO____________Grounding Kit_______________ebay.com_____________________$20
____NO____________KYB GR2 shocks/struts x4______rockauto.com__________________$200
____NO____________PCV catchcan________________ebay.com_____________________$20
____NO____________H&R 1.4/1.3 lowering springs____hrsprings.com_________________$210


STILL NEED TO DO:


1. Ship my spare cams out to Mike @3tech for credit towards the 365/222 cam and headbolts!
2. Call local machine shops to get an estimate to press my new pistons onto the rods
3. Get with my uncle and hone my cylinder block
4. Clean block real good and paint (gloss black)
5. Clean and sand valve cover and paint (unknown color)
6. When engine is out: paint engine bay with rust converter, and then paint with rubberized coating
Edited by chads4dr, Dec 29 2009, 01:27 PM.
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Murf 59
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Looks great Chad, let me know how you like that cam. I have the same one for the Starr. But its gonna still be a while before its all assy. And even longer till I can get somewheres to really open it up. But mine is gonna be 12.5 to1. And 77mm bore. Looks great though
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chads4dr


Mr Murf 59
Dec 29 2009, 12:48 AM
Looks great Chad, let me know how you like that cam. I have the same one for the Starr. But its gonna still be a while before its all assy. And even longer till I can get somewheres to really open it up. But mine is gonna be 12.5 to1. And 77mm bore. Looks great though
dang 12.5:1!!! I have no idea what mine would be, I'm using the stock bore, and I know the head was milled probably once or twice when z34 had it, maybe three total if it was milled when 3tech made it! I hope its not too high though, because I want to do some low boost later on (possible buying z34's turbo setup in a month!)
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Murf 59
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When I was talking with my machinest, he said that for every .020 milled off it raises the comp .5 points. The stock comp ratio is 9.5 to 1. If you are going to turbo the engine, start from the ground up. Supercharges, turbos, nitrous are all really hard on the internals. So balancing them in critical. Getting them just right is really hard. I hope that I am not boning myself on my build. If you have Qs PM me. It may take a bit to get back, but I will. I now have limited access to the net. I E only at work. If your head is cut to much, you can get a head shim from the same place that made my .090 copper head gasket. Keep an eye on the oil return hole. It appears to be the same as the non updated FelPro's. I think BB left a link on the Dark Starr thead. Its Innovative
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chads4dr


:stoner
Edited by chads4dr, Feb 24 2010, 01:50 AM.
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Woodie
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It's not less displacement because the sucking is all done by the area of the piston top and the distance it moves up and down. You haven't changed that. The difference between 9.5 and 10.5/1 compression is pretty big though (10%), that's going to make a lot more power (5hp?). You're going to be more prone to engine knock though, won't stand as much timing advance as a stock engine.
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chads4dr


ok thanks Woodie!!!
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Coche Blanco
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Troll Certified

So what makes more power? low comp + high advance or high comp + low advance...
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Potter
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Col. Potter

wow looking at what all your gonna be doing to yours..... is already what im saveing up to do to mine.... although your going for boost. down the road im thinking of boreing and strokeing the engine... since they make a stroker crank. but thats after i change the ECU out and either switch up to high compresion pistions or lower compression and boost it :hmm . keep up the good work bud!!! :thumb
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