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Chad's Build Thread; Just like energizer bunny...it just keeps going and going and going!!!!
Topic Started: Oct 20 2009, 11:59 PM (12,039 Views)
JohnDN


I just looked at the VHT Paint website and their VHT Flameproof Coating spray paint has these specifications:

Temperature: 1300°F-2000°F (704°C-1093°C)
Applications: Headers, Exhaust Manifolds, Piston Domes, Inside Heads

Piston domes and the inside of the head are actually listed as applications, that impressed me. Should be a little overkill to, if your heads reach 2000°F, then they are probably also dripping onto the road.
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chads4dr


WOW, thanks John, I didnt know about using it inside the heads!
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JohnDN


I think using it on the inside of the head would also have great benefits in helping to reduce pinging under boost. It'll help keep the combustion chamber cooler so you're air fuel mixture won't heat up as fast once it's sucked into the cylinder, possibly allowing you to compress it more before it must combust. Another added benefit is that if you coated the inide of the head with the valves still in, the bottom of your valves would be coated too. This will also give them added heat protection and even more burn through protection. If you're using Mike's stainless steel valves, you won't have to worry about burn through, but every little bit helps right?

Oh, and just so everyone knows. The VHT Flameproof Coating is true to its name, you can use it on piston tops and inside the cylinder heads. HOWEVER, the Rust-o-leum brand of 2000°F spray paint is not flame proof, it actually says on the can not to use it on surfaces in direct contact with a flame. Just thought I'd throw that out there before someone spends $8.00 for a can for Rust-o-leum high heat, only to find out that it burned all off their pistons quickly.
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bogs
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Duct tape heals all wounds

Sounds extremely interesting, will be following this closely methinks. :hmm
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chads4dr


JohnDN
Jan 24 2010, 08:08 PM
I think using it on the inside of the head would also have great benefits in helping to reduce pinging under boost. It'll help keep the combustion chamber cooler so you're air fuel mixture won't heat up as fast once it's sucked into the cylinder, possibly allowing you to compress it more before it must combust. Another added benefit is that if you coated the inide of the head with the valves still in, the bottom of your valves would be coated too. This will also give them added heat protection and even more burn through protection. If you're using Mike's stainless steel valves, you won't have to worry about burn through, but every little bit helps right?

Oh, and just so everyone knows. The VHT Flameproof Coating is true to its name, you can use it on piston tops and inside the cylinder heads. HOWEVER, the Rust-o-leum brand of 2000°F spray paint is not flame proof, it actually says on the can not to use it on surfaces in direct contact with a flame. Just thought I'd throw that out there before someone spends $8.00 for a can for Rust-o-leum high heat, only to find out that it burned all off their pistons quickly.
:+1 On the rustoleom, GET VHT INSTEAD!!! I'm not sure about it keeping your combustion temp lower, its an insulator, so it seems like it would "insulate" the head, and make the temps hotter???? IDK, maybe its another technical thing that my small mind is just not grasping! :rad
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bogs
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Duct tape heals all wounds

Actually, if it is an *insulator* , it should prevent the combustion from heating the head up. Insulating something does not mean warming it up, insulating something means blocking one temp from interacting with another, i.e. if your cooler has good insulation, your beer ...um... :smackface ...um... I mean soda, yah, thats it, your soda stays cool :whistle

If you were insulating mechanically, like motor mounts do, your frame is insulated from vibration of the engine because you have something to prevent the vibrations from carrying through :)
Edited by bogs, Jan 25 2010, 04:26 AM.
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Murf 59
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What about the Deep freeze process. I can't remember the name of it. The imerse something in like liquid nitrogen or something really cold. -350f Or so, And it aliegns the molecules or something like that. I have seen it done on razors. They say you would never have a dull one again.
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chads4dr


UPDATE :)

Got the crank back, its very purty!!! It mic'd out ok, and all the wear marks have been polished off, $40 very well spent!

Also after chatting with Z34 I realized I'm not as bad with the compression ratio as I originally thought, I'm at worst 9.6-9.8:1 instead of what I thought at around 10+ :P

Now On The TO DO/ TO BUY.....

____365/222 Cam/ Stainless Valves/ Headbolts (In shipping, should receive next week at latest)
____Turbo Setup From Z34 (Still working out shipping/payment)
____Assemble Engine (obviously can't happen till later lol)
____Buy a new/used trans...mine is moaning very loud on deccel in first and second, my uncle says its bearings???
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undgsx-R
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Self Certified Garage Mechanic

Your car is gonna fly when it is completed. It's gonna be great.
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Johnny Mullet
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Fear the Mullet

Looking forward to seeing it at GeoPalooza 2010
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billy508
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billy508

@Mr Murf Cryogenic processing

The field of cryogenics advanced during World War II when scientists found that metals frozen to low temperatures showed more resistance to wear. Based on this theory of cryogenic hardening, the commercial cryogenic processing industry was founded in 1966 by Ed Busch. With a background in the heat treating industry, Busch founded a company in Detroit called CryoTech in 1966. Though CryoTech later merged with 300 Below to create the largest and oldest commercial cryogenics company in the world, they originally experimented with the possibility of increasing the life of metal tools to anywhere between 200%-400% of the original life expectancy using cryogenic tempering instead of heat treating. This evolved in the late 1990s into the treatment of other parts (that did more than just increase the life of a product) such as amplifier valves (improved sound quality), baseball bats (greater sweet spot), golf clubs (greater sweet spot), racing engines (greater performance under stress), firearms (less warping after continuous shooting), knives, razor blades, brake rotors and even pantyhose. The theory was based on how heat-treating metal works (the temperatures are lowered to room temperature from a high degree causing certain strength increases in the molecular structure to occur) and supposed that continuing the descent would allow for further strength increases. Using liquid nitrogen, CryoTech formulated the first early version of the cryogenic processor. Unfortunately for the newly-born industry, the results were unstable, as components sometimes experienced thermal shock when they were cooled too quickly. Some components in early tests even shattered because of the ultra-low temperatures. In the late twentieth century, the field improved significantly with the rise of applied research, which coupled microprocessor based industrial controls to the cryogenic processor in order to create more stable results.

Cryogens, like liquid nitrogen, are further used for specialty chilling and freezing applications. Some chemical reactions, like those used to produce the active ingredients for the popular statin drugs, must occur at low temperatures of approximately −100 °C. Special cryogenic chemical reactors are used to remove reaction heat and provide a low temperature environment. The freezing of foods and biotechnology products, like vaccines, requires nitrogen in blast freezing or immersion freezing systems. Certain soft or elastic materials become hard and brittle at very low temperatures, which makes cryogenic milling (cryomilling) an option for some materials that cannot easily be milled at higher temperatures.


Cryogenic processing is not a substitute for heat treatment, but rather an extension of the heating - quenching - tempering cycle. Normally, when an item is quenched, the final temperature is ambient. The only reason for this is that most heat treaters do not have cooling equipment. There is nothing metallurgically significant about ambient temperature. The cryogenic process continues this action from ambient temperature down to −320 °F (140 °R; 78 K; −196 °C). In most instances the cryogenic cycle is followed by a heat tempering procedure. As all alloys do not have the same chemical constituents, the tempering procedure varies according to the material's chemical composition, thermal history and/or a tool's particular service application.

The entire process takes 3-4 days. :banana :banana :banana
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Murf 59
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Wow thanks Billy.
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chads4dr


Been working on the technicalities for fueling the engine....instead of using a hobbs pressure switch to control the CTS for fuel enrichment, I'm going to follow the way "little blue car" did it by using a simpler (and much cheaper) alternative, an oil pressure switch. they are $3 new (free used) :D instead of $30. I can use it inline with a relay to control the circuit as shown below....

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WANT BIGGER PIC? HERES THE LINK http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee130/chad8329/UPDATEDCTScircuitforboost.jpg


As you can see the CTS signal will flow normally through the relay when it is at its rest position, although i have a 5k pot inline it will remain at 0 for best mileage during cruising, however if needed this pot can be adjusted up to 5k ohms for "pre-enrichment". The oil pressure switch is mounted in the intake piping, when it sees 3-4 psi it closes, grounding that ciircuit and engaging the other leg of the CTS path. In this path I have a 10k pot which is set at 10k all the time, it provides max enrichment when boosting.


Heres the actual thing, mocked up, soldered, and ready to go!

Posted Image

Posted Image
Edited by chads4dr, Jan 31 2010, 11:27 PM.
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chads4dr


Man this thing is adding up in $$$$ fast! Theses another $120, dropped off my block to be decked at the machine shop, also had him check the head surface....its gottin a few scratches from being moved around my room, went ahead and had him smoothen it up, the block deck was my fault, I tried to wire wheel it and somehow it messed it up.
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Murf 59
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Bygones Chad, It happens. The good end of this is your gonna have more Compression. My machinest said for about every .020" You will pick up about .5 compression. So if you using stock pistons, you will come out about 10 to 1. Not to bad. Once you get it back in and broken in. You should be able to feel the difference. More umph.
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