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How To: Pull a G10; Engine removal guide
Topic Started: Nov 17 2009, 02:52 PM (9,438 Views)
bleep
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bleep
[ *  * ]
Thanks for the detailed photos on your guide. I'm currently just ending my engine R&R I found an engine online to replace the one that had compression of 0-80-60. Anyway while I was putting it together there were two connectors that did not seem to fit but I found them on number 27 on your guide. I took some pics of my job and will post them when I'm done, still have to put a stereo in!!
For my 94 metro 5spd
Thanks, Bleep.
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Orlando-Metro
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With step by step photo guides like - who needs books and manuals....

I'm about to get motivated to yank out the 3 hole in my 98 Metro. Runs - but smokes. (bad habit)

Guy who sold it to me says its a 97 1.0 liter. In a 98 car. It works. Just burns oil.

Since I went through the royal pain of stripping the entire interior of the car to clean out all the crud, to put the wife to work cleaning the carpet (she said it had black crap coming off it) and seats, take care of all signs of corrosion, and wax the whole car - inside and out. And then clean the windows. The wax is a corrosion prevention measure for the inside. The body on the car is in real good shape for its years.

Wife even says it looks good...

This is coming from the same person who says I'm nuts for buying these small cars, and who pathetic they are, and then she drives off in her 12MPG Explorer; all 3800 pounds of it.

These little gems get 40 MPG. They cost next to nothing to buy - and a little more to fix up, and even less if you do the work yourself and get blood to spew from your hands (like me and mechanical skills). Compare THAT to those "SMART" ass cars who go for $15K, and barely get the same mileage.

I'll take my Metro every day. I plan to get a second one for my son (15 - learners permit)
Nobody tell my wife - ok.

Mike
Orlando - FLorida
(land of the 98 - 105 degree HUMID summers)
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convertible


Great job. Your post will make things a lot easier especially when hooking everything back up with installation.
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kurtis1971
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this is very helpful
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G10HIO
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Gaining Experience!
[ *  * ]
G10HIO says:
This will make hooking up my basket-case G10 a breeze; THANKS!
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Tofuball
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Strange Mechanic

Reference threads like these are what makes car forums an awesome place to hang out. Five stars for this thread.
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chubart
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Love to see detailed pictures helps me as a new guy learn alot. Thanks so much
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ponzy


wow...... i hope i could do this right.......... i will be doing this on a g13 8 valve....sooner....

thanks a lot!!!!

EDIT/UPDATE:

thanks for your guide man, i was able to pull my g13 8 valve with 3 spd AUTO altogether, this afternoon for 4 hours with extra 4 hands :-)

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now, the hardest part is PUTTING IT ALL BACK !!!!!!......

i did it without a cherry picker.... i used a dolly purchased from HFT and pull it out underneath... only 4 bolts from 4 mounts ( 2 engine and 2 tranny -- one ach from back and one on each side) but i had to remove the head with IM/TB first prior to removal of bottom end with tranny.....
Edited by ponzy, May 1 2011, 12:12 AM.
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starscream5000
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Got 70 MPG?

No problem, glad it was helpful to everyone!
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IgOsLow
Fresh Fish
[ * ]
well the flywheel went on my car bought the car off a guy who had the transmission rebuilt. My guess is they torqued it down too much and bent a few teeth. I figure mine as well pull the engine and replace the flywheel, timing belt, clean all the crud in the engine bay, and flush all the fluids.... Good thing i only bought it for 300 and as an extra car to go back and forth to work too..... Well my summer project :)
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AthensTxMc
Fresh Fish
[ * ]
I have a suggestion. Remove the intake manifold, leave everything possible attached to it. Tie it up above the engine or hang it with a bungee chord. There are a few water hoses you will have to pull that go to the block. There are very few wires or vacuum hoses to deal with. Don't remove anything that you don't absolutely have to remove. I pull the a/c compressor bracket off and tie the compressor out of the way, never lost a drop of freon yet, unless i was stripping out the a/c for economy reasons. I can swap a geo engine by myself in a few hours pulling it as a unit with the transmission.
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cryboytheman
Mr. Cryer
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Just wanted to add my thoughts (shot out to PA Metro for helping me generate this list).

Things to disconnect before removing engine from car:

• Drain Radiator (last)
• Remove Charcoal Canister
• Remove Battery and Battery Tray
• Remove Clutch Cable from Transaxle
• Remove Throttle Cable
• Remove Vacuum Lines (mark them) from back of Engine
• Take Compressor off (leave it hanging); Remove Compressor Bracket from Engine Block
• Motor Mounts
o Loosen Rear Motor Mount
o Remove driver-side motor mount bolt, then back it in one turn
o Remove passenger side motor mount bolts
• Remove Exhaust Bolts (will probably need to be heated)
• Disconnect Upstream Oxygen Sensor
• Heater Core – do not disconnect from FIREWALL, but instead disconnect hoses at the engine!
• Remove the Two Radiator Bolts (top)
• Drop Transaxle Rods
• Cruse Control Wire
• Disconnect Speedometer Cable from Transaxle
• Drop Axel Arms
• Drain All Fluids

Things to buy:

• Syncromesh (3qts)
• Oil filter
• Radiator fluid
• Hose clamps (1.5”)
• Timing Belt
• Crankshaft Seal
• Cam seal
• Camshaft position sensor
• Exhaust Bolts
• Transaxle seals (Napa: SKF 13624 and 13998)
• Cotter keys for tie rods
• Thermostat
• O-ring for water pump
• Water pump (if needed)

Things to do before putting engine back in

• Polish cam/crank shafts before seating seals
• Pack Timing Ten-Bearing
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ebayollis
New Member
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awesome thread needs to be a sticky
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starscream5000
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Got 70 MPG?

ebayollis
Apr 13 2012, 06:05 PM
awesome thread needs to be a sticky
It is...
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Coche Blanco
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Well it needs to be stickier, cause it's awesome!
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