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| Topic Started: Nov 21 2009, 04:43 PM (1,531 Views) | |
| geonewbie | Nov 23 2009, 12:32 PM Post #16 |
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Advanced Member
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i remember seeing this comment before, possibly from you, hard to tell as i read reams of threads per day both here and at teamswift. info is the magic wand amoung tool sets !! i'll have to do some sourcing, i've found a real good parts car and am going to start hitting the scrap yards to see what i can come up with. thanks, steve Edited by geonewbie, Nov 23 2009, 12:33 PM.
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| Didriksen | Nov 23 2009, 05:52 PM Post #17 |
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T-Dog Loc OG
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The bearings are yours ill hold them for you until i hear otherwise, the bearings are for the front left and front right both are new and sealed. The back bearing ran me about 15.00 a piece 2 outer and 2 inner making 60.00 for the rear. Parts were purchased at my local AutoZone http://www.autozone.com/autozone/catalog/parts/partsShelf.jsp?displayName=Wheel+Bearing+-+Rear¤tPage=1&categoryDisplayName=Drivetrain&navValue=11200167&itemId=167-0&parentId=12-0 (link my not work), regardless I hope things go well Trevor |
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| geonewbie | Nov 23 2009, 08:14 PM Post #18 |
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Trevor, the construction of the second portion of your sentence gives me some pause. "for the left and right front both are new and sealed" does this mean that there are 2 bearings being discused ? if so, they would either be for a later model than mine or they are 1/2 the needed bearings to do the replacement on mine. the 92 xfi has 2 bearings of the same size in the front hub, one inside and one outside. your link goes to the Azone site for rear wheel bearings, and again there is an inner and an outer, which are diff. from one another. can you give me the part numbers of the packaging so i can confirm which bearings we're talking about ? thanks, steve Edited by geonewbie, Nov 23 2009, 08:15 PM.
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| Didriksen | Nov 24 2009, 02:36 AM Post #19 |
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T-Dog Loc OG
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The bearings I have number is 510001 and are for the front inner for both sides this link is the exact bearing I have mine are again 510001. Sorry for the confusion there. These might not work for you after all, but I am not sure, as I am only familiar with the 95-01 metros. If this will not work no worries I am not in a hurry or looking to make money off these just trying to help someone out on saving some $$$$. Trevor Here is link to Timken Bearings for all Geo Metro http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/search/?N=0&VN=+4294966989+4294967234&Nr=AND(make:Geo,part:Wheel+Bearing,universal:0 |
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| geonewbie | Dec 1 2009, 05:40 PM Post #20 |
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well, i guess i've been chasing my tail to some extent. the alternator must have been on it's last few gasps from the begining, so it finally quit. interesting how much better EVERYTHING works when it's getting a constant dose of rated volts and apperage. got my parts car, '90 Metro, complete, running and drivable for $100.00. already using some TB and EGR parts off it, and of course a perfectly good alternator. it had a small tree fall on it and smash the top and windshield, no other damage. 73,000 original one owner miles, sat in a barn last 4 yrs. after the fuel pump quit. they actually cut the top off even with the window sills and drove it in good weather for 25,000 miles. i LOVE fellow "HoosierBillies" steve |
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| Bad Bent | Dec 1 2009, 08:37 PM Post #21 |
Facetious Educated Donkey
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"they actually cut the top off even with the window sills and drove it in good weather for 25,000 miles." That was my first thought, make it into a convertible or chop the top and make it a roadster. 
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| billy508 | Dec 1 2009, 09:03 PM Post #22 |
billy508
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I have cut the roofs off of a couple of cars. One thing you have to be careful of is that the car will be pretty weak with the doors open. Try not to open both doors and the same time and make sure they are shut well before you go riding. 
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| nerys | Dec 2 2009, 01:41 AM Post #23 |
Grr
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Weld in a support frame around where the roof was :-) |
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| Bad Bent | Dec 2 2009, 02:02 AM Post #24 |
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Facetious Educated Donkey
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Aeromodded Metro; Chopped, Teardropped |
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| geonewbie | Dec 5 2009, 05:35 PM Post #25 |
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Advanced Member
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tailpipe was kind of sooty and still not getting the mileage expected so i went searching in the archieves. ended up finding a totally blocked coolant passage in the TB, obviosly the TB heat sensor hasn't been signaling the ECM to lean down after warmup. was a real pain to get it cleared out, but i managed. should see better results now i'll bet. thanks, steve Edited by geonewbie, Dec 5 2009, 05:36 PM.
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| nerys | Dec 5 2009, 07:36 PM Post #26 |
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Grr
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where is this passage exactly? |
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| geonewbie | Dec 5 2009, 08:20 PM Post #27 |
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take off the air cleaner, in the center of the back of the Throttle Body is a tower shaped casting. on the upper right the TB heat sensor is screwed into it. in the middle facing the firewall is a coolant hose, that's one end of the passage. on the left side is another hose going down to a connection on the intake manifold, that is the other end. take the hose off the upper location and off the lower location at the Throttle Body, if you can get air to pass thru the casting either way you don't have a problem in that location. steve |
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| geonewbie | Dec 7 2009, 07:06 PM Post #28 |
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man, this thing is wearing me out. drove to work today and after about 15 mins of driving the CEL comes on for about 3 mins. and goes back off. drove back home no CEL, checked the codes, #13, "o" sensor, did the system just start working, after correcting the over rich running ? i could see that being the case since it was probably not even reading it while it was in constant closed loop from the false cold "rich" operation. thanks, steve |
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| Bad Bent | Dec 8 2009, 02:50 AM Post #29 |
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Facetious Educated Donkey
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So the OBD system checks the sensors and reports to the ECM and the light goes on. It runs the test for 30 seconds. I've had lights come on when I do a bunch of short trips around town. I get an open stretch of road and run the rpm up to 4-5K and it clears up the problem. 'Blows it out' so to speak. May be the sensor, maybe not. It could have gone "pending" meaning the last 30 second test was OK so it turned the light off. I'd say wait and see... unless you use a DVOM to test ECM terminal "A6" which shold vary between .3 to above .5V (300-500mv), engine run above 1200 rpm for 2 minutes. 
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| geonewbie | Dec 8 2009, 04:58 AM Post #30 |
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i cleared it after i got home, i'll see what it does today and report back. thanks, steve yep, same activity, about the same place on the road, CEL comes on then i go alittle further to a stop on the highway, pull away and it goes off. same deal 2 mornings in a row. guess i'll try the O sensor off my parts car, see what it does. Edited by geonewbie, Dec 8 2009, 07:11 AM.
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