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"New to me" Metro questions; ?s about a few minor issues
Topic Started: Jan 4 2010, 11:42 PM (755 Views)
BabySmurf
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Well, I've been reading through the posts, and it looks like the best plan of action is via a new post. I have yet to purchase a repair guide for the Metro, and just have a couple of questions.

I just bought a 2000 automatic Metro LSi. It's a 1.3L, 16-valve L4. (Is this a 4 cylinder?)

Right now my main "concern" is the gas gauge. When we fill it up, the gauge sometimes goes to Full, sometimes not... mostly not. It moves around (seemingly) erratically, and thus far we haven't taken the chance and tried to empty the tank to see what our mpg is. My question(s) are...can the gauge be fixed simply? Is this normal (problem gauges)? Should I not be too concerned about it?

Also, on the drive indicator (P,R,N,D,2,1) there are no convenience lights. I'm just wondering if there is a fuse for that, or maybe a bulb that might be out inside there? Not a big deal but makes for awkward navigation in the dark.

AND
On the inspection slip from the dealer it says the "right hand inner tie rod end has play". I'm wondering if there is anything I can do about this play, and can it be adjusted? Tightened? What happens if I wait to get it repaired, besides tire wear?

I think that's it for the moment. Thanks!!
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Coche Blanco
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If it has 16 valves, I think it is a G13B, but I doubt that.
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Bad Bent
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Facetious Educated Donkey

Take a look at wikipedia.org/Geo_Metro which says "1.3L 79 hp (59 kW) I4" or in-line 4 cylinder.

Don't know about the lights but you can check for fuses under dash near the driver's left knee.

Plenty of Topics on the gas gauge, which has never worked well on mine. :banghead Usually it's how far can you drive on "E". :lol Click on How to change a fuel pump and see how the sending unit is corroded. I'd only be concerned about running out of gas. But you have a 10.5-11 gallon tank and at 35-40 mpg you should go 350 miles, note where the gauge is and then fill it up. You'll then know what gauge point equals how many gallons and how how much further you can go. That's what I do.

I had my entire rack and pinion rebuilt for $150. That tie rod is about a $45 part. The R&P is held on with 4 bolts to the firewall, the two tie rod ends and one bolt to the steering wheel shaft. Two bolts loosen the steering shaft for clearance. B-)
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bennie442


Nice to have a new member here, Babysmurf! You have a 4 banger engine. Shift indicator illumination does have a fuse, however, if that was blown, all the dash lights would be out. Check for a bad bulb or maybe a connection problem. Lastly, the worn tie rod can be replaced without killing your wallet. If you haven't got know how to do this yourself, most any good repair shop can do this in about 30 minutes.
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Woodie
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Yes, you have a four cylinder engine, official designation is G13BB.

Don't know how they sold you a car with play in a tie rod end, that's exactly what a safety inspection is supposed to take care of. No big deal to fix, probably $100 installed, but it's going to need an alignment after, $50 - $75 additional.

That inner tie rod end is exactly the part that passes through the part of the frame that is subject to rust I was talking about in your other thread.
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BabySmurf
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Awesome. Thanks so much for the feedback. When people have Flying Spaghetti Monster on their sig, I know I'm in the right place. ;)
Aside from needing windshield wipers, the tie rod end play was the only thing mentioned on the inspection slip. I never trust car salesmen in general, but it was a well known dealership in town, whom I trust more than the back street car lot or CraigsList. lol. I'll have a mechanic have a look see. When my son starts college this summer he'll need to drive 70 miles round trip some days. I'd rather get that stuff fixed sooner than later.
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rixpix
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BabySmurf
Jan 4 2010, 11:42 PM




Right now my main "concern" is the gas gauge. When we fill it up, the gauge sometimes goes to Full, sometimes not... mostly not. It moves around (seemingly) erratically, and thus far we haven't taken the chance and tried to empty the tank to see what our mpg is. My question(s) are...can the gauge be fixed simply? Is this normal (problem gauges)? Should I not be too concerned about it?


You don't have to run tank empty to check MPG. Just fill up, check mileage. Since you don't know the MPG figure 25mpg for safety @ 10 gallon tank= 250 miles. so at 250 or around that fill up again an divide the mileage by how many gallons you have used. That will be your MPG. For example you drove 250 miles and used 8 gallons.... 250 miles divided by 8 gallons = 31.25 MPG and have a 2 gallon reseve in your tank.

Of course this is just an example and I used rounded off numbers to make it easier. You just need to find out how big you tank is and replace your numbers in my example.

I'd say you need to change out sending unit if you want your gauge to work, if not just figure MPG keep track of mileage and give yourself a couple of gallons reserve.
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BabySmurf
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Thanks rixpix. We got a gallon of gas and drove it until it started sputtering. Looks like we have a 10 gallon tank. The gauge sits on empty for about 3.5 gallons. lol. We've been using the tripometer to help know when to gas up.
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