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| no spark issue | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Jan 20 2010, 07:02 PM (1,904 Views) | |
| dragnfly | Jan 20 2010, 07:02 PM Post #1 |
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New Member
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I have a 2000 1.0 firefly, back in '05 the spark started kicking in and out then finally quit, no one could find the problem and the chev dealer finally determained it was the computer and replace it, luckily for me under warrenty. The spark started doing the same thing in aug of '09. The spark work quit I would mess with the plug wired and the spark would come back , it did this a few times over a couple of weeks then the spark quit and would not come back. I parked the car and left it for 3 months , I decided one day to see if the battery was still good and figured I might aswell turn the engine over , well it started right up. I havent been driving it as Im worried it will die agian. I have been told I have an electrical issue and not a computer issue. Any suggestions on which wires to start looking at , any info would be greatly appreciated, thanks for your time |
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| Johnny Mullet | Jan 20 2010, 09:17 PM Post #2 |
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Fear the Mullet
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Any place the wiring passes through the firewall is a good place to check, but I would start be checking all the ground and battery connections. Welcome aboard and hopefully we get this resolved. I suppose the dealer replaced the ECU and it was fine for 4 years? The ECU rarely goes bad in these cars. Maybe something to do with the wiring to the ECU? |
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| Bad Bent | Jan 20 2010, 10:05 PM Post #3 |
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Facetious Educated Donkey
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Did you replace the plug wire that you would mess with? Might move some other wires and see if anything changes.
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| mwebb | Jan 20 2010, 11:25 PM Post #4 |
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FOG
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http://geometroforum.com/topic/2703156/1/#new the ECM needs signal from CKP and CMP to know when to command spark , so that is a good place to begin if there is no CMP or CKP signal the ECM does not know that the engine is rotating so the ECM responds by doing nothing , which is what it is designed to do . do you have signal to the spark module / controller ? if yes to this , then CKP and CMP are ok do you have signal to the injector ? if no and no signal at the spark module then you need to test CKP and CMP http://geometroforum.com/topic/2810401/1/#new here is a basic way to test the injector for signal http://geometroforum.com/topic/2680128/1/#new and here is how to go about connecting to the circuits without damaging the insulation time for a DVOM and a test light . post your test results for more guidance |
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| Bad Bent | Jan 20 2010, 11:49 PM Post #5 |
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Facetious Educated Donkey
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Welcome to the forum, dragnfly! Tim Horton of course. Have a happy Olympics. |
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| dragnfly | Jan 24 2010, 01:45 PM Post #6 |
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New Member
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yes the dealer replaced the ecu and it was fine for 4 years and 55,000kms. at this moment the car is running perfect. i will have to wait for the spark to cut out agian to check the wiring . i will make sure that all connections are tight. thanks to everyone for the replies . i look forward to learning and enjoying the site. thanks for your time colin |
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| jellybean | Jan 26 2010, 12:33 PM Post #7 |
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If you go through the steps above you will find your problem however i experienced a similar condition and it was the ground wires on the intake, hard to see and easily overlooked but easy to fix |
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| undgsx-R | Jan 26 2010, 01:34 PM Post #8 |
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Self Certified Garage Mechanic
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Also it may be wise to replace the distributor cap, rotor, spark plugs, and wires. |
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| dragnfly | Jun 15 2010, 01:14 PM Post #9 |
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My car has been running great for 6 months. When this problem first happened in 2005 I switch out each piece I could think of indiveduly to try to rule out things one at at time, ( rotor, cap, crank sensor, coil, ect) nothing made a differance so I figured each of those items were working fine. After driving everyday for 6 months hassel free the car suddenly wouldnt start yesterday, cranking over with no spark so my issue was back. I thought what is the easiest thing to start with, I removed the crank ensor and noticed it was dirty I took sandpaper and litely sanded the end till the center was clean and shiney, replaced it , turned the key and it started right up. I'm hoping this was the issue all along , time will tell. Thanks everyone for the input love thios site , I have used the info here many times on my 4 cars. |
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| dragnfly | Jun 16 2010, 01:45 PM Post #10 |
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that didn't last long car ran great yesterday . I left work at 2:30 am last night and the car did it agian , was cranking over for about 2 mins without showing any signs of starting . I let it sit about 30 seconds and turn the key and it started right up. This thing is making me crazy can't seem to find what is shutting off the spark so randomly |
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| crankcase | Jun 16 2010, 04:44 PM Post #11 |
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If you could get an oscilloscope to the low side of the coil when the problem happens, you could eliminate a number of possibilities. |
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| Bad Bent | Jun 16 2010, 06:04 PM Post #12 |
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Facetious Educated Donkey
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Welcome back. What solved the problem in January? It being a 2000 I don't have FSM on that. Did you test it according to mwebb's procedure? So at some point everything works but it takes two minutes of cranking and 30 seconds of waiting. Wow, that is intermittent and as mwebb points out a good place to start is the distributor. I'd also clean every ground. |
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| mwebb | Jun 16 2010, 09:08 PM Post #13 |
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FOG
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you will need to provide some test results . read this it may be way over your pay grade right now but you do have the ability to learn it and to perform the testing do the best you can with what you have to work with provide something in the area of test results so we can provide guidance. ================================================================ my magic wand has been sent out for cleaning and the annual service so i can not fix it that way |
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| bogs | Jun 16 2010, 10:00 PM Post #14 |
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Duct tape heals all wounds
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Mwebb, are you using the Duey, Cheadum, & Howe magic wand cleaning service again?
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| Woodie | Jun 17 2010, 05:42 AM Post #15 |
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I've heard of fuel injectors acting this way just before they quit completely. |
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7:40 PM Jul 10