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| G10 starters; Starter replacement. | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Jan 21 2010, 06:37 PM (1,261 Views) | |
| Memphis metro | Jan 21 2010, 06:37 PM Post #1 |
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Dont see many postings about starters. I am curious if anyone has had to replace one. They must be pretty well made as well to get the mileage out of them they are getting. Anyone have any thoughts at all on the G10 starters? |
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| PA.metro,fixer,frames,ect | Jan 21 2010, 07:23 PM Post #2 |
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Frame Fixer
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i've only replaced one .,.,.,i think mabe two,.,.,....... yea really well made =or metros start fairly easy,,lol |
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| Johnny Mullet | Jan 21 2010, 08:01 PM Post #3 |
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Fear the Mullet
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Never had a starter issue except corroded terminals. |
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| starscream5000 | Jan 21 2010, 08:14 PM Post #4 |
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Got 70 MPG?
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It doesn't take much to crankshaft over a G10, so that's probably why they last so long. They don't have to be stressed much. |
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| Memphis metro | Jan 21 2010, 08:21 PM Post #5 |
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Yeah I figured the stress issue is part of it also. Good thing they hold up with that thing being in the back and hard to reach. |
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| jeff | Jan 21 2010, 08:58 PM Post #6 |
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My 97 had a new 1 right before I got her. She has about 127thousand when purchased. Real old man owned it. Lots of starting?
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| StevieC | Jan 21 2010, 11:07 PM Post #7 |
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The G10 starter is the same one used on the G13. I haven't replaced one, but rather transferred one. They are a bitch to get to! Much easier to remove / replace on the G10 than on the G13... |
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| Fireball 89 | Jan 21 2010, 11:24 PM Post #8 |
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2.4 Cylinders of Determination
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When I first inherited Fireball, I thought it had a starter issue. Conveniently picked one up at the local salvage yard and switched it out. Inspecting the old starter, I disassembled and cleaned the solenoid. I tested the starter and it worked. Switched it back in and it has worked flawlessly. The salvage yard starter is still ready to go. I'm sure I'll get the top end rebuilt and my boy will be driving Fireball to school before we'll need that "new" starter. Edward |
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| Rooy | Jan 21 2010, 11:46 PM Post #9 |
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I had to replace the wire between the starter and solenoid, so I went through the rest of the starter and refurbished where I could. I wanted to get the solenoid open to reface the contacts, but couldn't get it open. How did you get it open? No screws on top. Instead, it looks like the metal case is crimped on? I know the wires will have to be de-soldered. ![]() Edited by Rooy, Jan 21 2010, 11:47 PM.
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| Fireball 89 | Jan 22 2010, 12:44 AM Post #10 |
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2.4 Cylinders of Determination
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Hi Rooy- I'm not sure how I got it open. Maybe different manufacturer design? I remember when it came apart there was a lot of "dust" in there (the solenoid) and the core didn't move. I would characterize the dust as iron-oxide-ish in color and texture. This occurred about ten years ago. Initially, I thought the previous owners / shop technicians must have cranked the starter until it failed, however, there was no unusual burnt wire smell or discoloration of the starter motor nor solenoid. Just an ordinary used starter that didn't always start. After clean up (most probably using carburetor cleaner or brake cleaner) and verifying the core moved (didn't even think about chasing the contacts), reassembled and tested. I decided to reinstall it as I'm a cheap guy and wanted to get all I could out of it and I knew my salvage yard starter worked fine. Edward |
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| pancakeron | Jan 22 2010, 04:37 AM Post #11 |
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New Member
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My '93/G10 starter was a tough one, for sure... lasted 186K+(original owner)miles, before it became toast... It happened suddenly, without warning, it just quit working! worked one moment, 3 seconds later, no work, no turn, just a click...! needless to say... the car wouldn't start... Tblshooting/testing was proving the trouble into the starter motor... removed and jumpered it directly to the battery...no spin, etc... tore it apart, found some insulation on the field coils worn thru, shorting the armature. Also found lots of fine grit/dust around the thrust bearing, and inner housing...(yep, is toast!) Purchased a new starter, bolted it in...turned the key, and ...nothing happens!?... checked all connections...good.. and lights/horn work fine!? pulled out dvom, see only 11-12v across batt, and elswhere?! maybe low on charge? put it on the charger, charger indicates batt has a full charge!?No current draw...but no more than 12v show on meter..! Looks like Battery trouble, too??! (the battery was old, way past it's warranted life span! so, Toast too, is possible...!) Got jumper cbls on neighbors battery, and wah-lah, it starts right up! Suspect that when the Starter shorted, it caused a sudden spike in current draw on the battery, shorting a weak cell... thereby, creating Battery-Toast, to go with the Starter-Toast! Bought a new battery, and No problems (or toast) since! The new starter motor i bought,(at 40theives/kragens) was constructed at least as well as the original oem starter. (was expecting a much cheaper quality, etc) - -I don't remember who it was made by... I'm thinkin, made in USA? Price was,(again) I'm thinking) $60...? Bottom-Line, I don't expect to have starter(motor) trouble ever again! - -_ The only "starter motor" related pics i could find... The original starter motor, undergoing exploratory surgery: ![]() ![]() . . . . . "...I can't remember, I don't recall, I have no memories, of anything at all" . . |
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| Rooy | Jan 22 2010, 04:53 AM Post #12 |
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I think you're right on yours being a different design. I remembered there were some differences between mine and the shop manual. In the manual it shows the starter having a removable end cap for the bushing on the brush end of the starter, which mine does not have. The car is a '91, original starter. I have an 89 and a 91 manual and they both show the same different starter. Maybe the changeover was around 91 and the manual didn't yet reflect the change. |
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| Memphis metro | Jan 22 2010, 06:15 AM Post #13 |
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Low voltage is a killer! Since I have the head and intake out the way I am almost persuaded to go ahead and jerk the starter off and go thru it while it is so easily accessible. Heres a tidbit of information concerning jump starting newer model cars. There has been a lot of changes in batteries and how the wiring circuits are under the hood. Concerning having to boost off a dead battery, used too the alternator wiring was connected straight to the battery post causing direct charge to the battery. Well now on a lot of newer design cars there are juntion blocks that all accesseries feed off of away from the battery and the alternator wire feeds to that junction instead to the battery. So if you boost off the vehicle it charges to the junction block and accesseries are pulling the charging voltage away before it ever makes it back to the battery. Short story here is if you ever have to boost off a dead battery on a new car designed like this you should not rely on the alternator to charge the battery up while driving or you might find yourself again with a dead battery when you cut it off again and next time you may not be so close to help. In this situation you should always charge the battery with a battery charger. Batteries also have changed a lot in design in recent years. |
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| metroschultz | Jan 22 2010, 10:39 AM Post #14 |
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Please just call me; "Schultz"
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My starter has 247,K on it, has been on this motor and the previous, I stop my engine whenever possible, which means I use it at lights, and ive never had an issue |
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| Bad Bent | Jan 22 2010, 01:12 PM Post #15 |
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Facetious Educated Donkey
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Great rhyme, pancakeron. I have a short in the '91s elect. system that slowly draws a little current over a weeks time. This actually happened to the '96. It read 11.something volts but still went click-click-click, I feel your pain. I adapted an installable on-board trickle charger to have red/black copper clips so I can maintain charged car batteries. I have a good memory... it's just short.
Edited by Bad Bent, Jan 22 2010, 01:17 PM.
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