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timing belt to tight
Topic Started: Jan 22 2010, 09:40 PM (1,531 Views)
jellybean


Hello I'm having a bit of trouble installing a timing belt it's just to tight and makes a noise at idle. its an import 1.0 motor early i think because of the old style valve cover that i installed into a 96, which means the oil pump, pan and five hole crank gear was installed along with the cam gear as it had different teeth on the import motor. the problem is that no matter what belt i use it is to tight i have the tensioner slot at the top and it is still tight has to be forced on with the tensioner rotated beyond its normal stops . something has to be wrong but I'm wearing out the bolts trying to find it. any ideas will be appreciated ..
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Alpine
1020cc G10 GOML

welcome to the forum , someone will be able to help you


takes some pictures of your ride and engine we love pics
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jellybean


thanks for the welcome i will try to add pictures tomorrow i have two metros now a 93 and the newest a 96 both 1.0s and 2drs hate the door locks and seat belts on the 93 but it has proven to be a 50mpg car and that makes it worth the stupid safety features. The 96 has bit me hard i knew a 200K chassis would need everything but i didn't think all at once, motor, trans, axles so far, tie rods, struts and wheel bearings to follow but it needs to pay me back in some good mileage first.
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Johnny Mullet
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Fear the Mullet

That seems odd. If you swapped over the 1996 cam gear, crank sprocket, etc it should work with a 1996+ timing belt.
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jellybean


yes all the gear is off the 96 i have tried the narrow and wide belts i think the tensioner can only be installed one way and both the import and 96 tensioners are the same diameter
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91 ragtop
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I've replaced several timing belts that I bought at parts dinosaur that were real tight and it was hard to get past the tensioner but they have all stretched after being broken in a while. If you want to get rid of the automatic door locks just pull the kick pannels off each side in front of the doors and reach in and unplug the harness that goes into the door. You will still have the warning lights in the cluster that tells you if the doors are locked.
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jellybean


Thanks for the info on the door locks and the belt break-in after 10-15 miles my noise seems to be from rubbing on the cover and if i could slack it off i think it would ride better. on this motor the belt will walk off if the btm accessory pulley is not on, is that the norm?
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iamgeo
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Big League

I know that on both my Geos the belt would come off if the crank pulley was not on. The pulley keeps the belt in place. But, if your timing gears are not lining up properly that could be the problem.

Quote:
 
the problem is that no matter what belt i use it is to tight i have the tensioner slot at the top and it is still tight has to be forced on with the tensioner rotated beyond its normal stops .

That is the way I had to put the timing belts on for both my cars. Once the belt is on you will see that it's not really all that tight.
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jellybean


thanks all for the help I've never had this issue before and done lots of belt on different makes. the tension spring will not pull the tensioner down to the point that you can install the center stud with out forcing it down and that just doesn't seem right I'm going to check the c-c distance of the cam and crank shafts between the import motor and my original 96 but for now i need to set it aside for a few days to change motors in a 94 accord, make side money to dump into the geos
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jellybean


I just wanted to pass along a unrelated tip to those who are interested a milk carton is perfect for a bench top engine stand the sump fits in perfect and squares up the motor like it was made for this purpose i have a plastic one and it holds the fully assembled motor fine the plastic slides around on my metal work table easily
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