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What’s the best way to remove the oil pump gasket?
Topic Started: Jan 28 2010, 06:54 PM (1,927 Views)
Rooy


Yes, most likely it was there to begin with, caused by the machining process. I assumed it wasn't there prior to using the wire wheel.

If you do continue to use a wire wheel, use very light pressure and don't work one spot too much.
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chads4dr


Im thinking about just taking it to the machine shop....screw it, I dont want to gamble on the surface finish....im already going to br prone to failing headgakets :(
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billy508
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billy508

Here is some info on the surface of a head/block. :type Aluminum OHC heads should be checked for flatness in two places: across the face of the head with a straight edge and down the OHC cam bores with a straightedge or bar. In most instances, both will be off if the head is warped. If the cam bores are still straight and only the face of the head is out-of-flat (a rare situation), resurfacing should be all that's needed to make the head flat. But if the cam bores are out of alignment (much more common), the head will have to be straightened and/or align bored or honed - and then resurfaced as needed to make it flat.

Surface finish is also very important too. For many years, most aftermarket gasket manufacturers said a surface finish of 55 to 110 microinches RA (roughness average), or 60 to 125 RMS (root mean square) is acceptable for conventional gaskets. The preferred range has traditionally been 80 to 100 RA. More recently, though, some gasket manufacturers have changed their recommendations because today's engines are lighter, and castings are thinner and less rigid. The latest recommendations for nonasbestos and graphite gaskets is a surface finish of 30 to 110 RA for cast iron head and block combinations, with a preferred range of 60 to 100 RA and 30 to 60 RA for aluminum heads on cast iron blocks with a preferred range of 50 to 60 RA. For MLS gaskets, a surface finish of 30 RA or smoother is usually required.
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Rooy


You can successfully get it done yourself if you want to. If the gasket material is stubborn, they sell an aerosol gasket remover (already mentioned in this thread) that really softens it and makes it easy to remove. Should be available at local auto parts stores, probably in the Permatex section.
Edited by Rooy, Jan 29 2010, 08:16 PM.
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chads4dr


thats the thing, the gasket came off, its just the residue or "impression" of the gasket's texture left in the cylinder deck and sleeves, and after using the wire wheel I discovered the pits in the sleeves, and the wire wheel scratched the surface.
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Rooy


The aerosol gasket remover will still help remove residue. A gasket scraper would also work. Just use it carefully so as to not gouge the surface.
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