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| Initial Diagnosis of my project metro; Lot's of stuff wrong | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Jan 29 2010, 06:48 PM (916 Views) | |
| puckett02 | Jan 29 2010, 06:48 PM Post #1 |
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Hey everyone, I posted in the introductions a couple days ago. I have since completed my initial testing of my project metro: 1. Compression: cyl 1 - ~90 psi cyl 2 - ~140 psi cyl 3 - ~80 psi Most likely the cause of many problems such as: -Will not maintain idle at idle speed -Excessive engine vibration during operation -Using the throttle cable adjustment it will maintain a higher speed idle, but will stall under the load of the heater motor on high and headlights on. -Blue smoke under hard acceleration while same load is being applied, not so much when all accessories are off. 1.5. Burning coolant - bad head gasket most likely. Noticed water collecting from the vapors coming from the valve cover vent on the air filter box bottom while running, let it pool up and it looked to have a green tint. Coolant in radiator looks green/brown. 2. Next, the timing was completely off - all the way advanced. My timing light did not work, but luckily someone had a mark scored across the distributor and the valve cover. Set it to that mark and it helped a lot with the vibration excessive sound from the engine, and helped maintain the idle. 3. Hole in the exhaust, not a big deal. 4. Rusted out inner rocker / outer floor area, not a big deal but I didn't notice just how bad when I picked it up. 5. The steering rack has had it. Driver's side especially bad, major amount of play. Only one way to fix that is to replace. So what to do? I am thinking total engine rebuild is needed here. Seems straight forward enough and I have read some project threads involving engine rebuild. I am mechanically inclined enough to do it, don't hold your breath on updates from me though. I have no garage so it will take some time to finish. Some questions: Where is the "best" (read: cheapest) place to get the rebuild parts? I think I will go .030 over pistons due to a lot of possible piston slap noise from initial startup. Also what have you guys done as far as head machining? I read someone's sig. stating .010, has anyone gone .020 or higher? So engine stuff I'm looking for: Rebuild kit (gaskets, bearings, .030 pistons and rings) Water pump (might as well) Valves (probly the 3-tech SS kit w/ guides and seals - and head bolts) I think that's it? Is there a place online most people here go or just try out the local parts stores. I have Orielly's, Autozone, Advance Auto, Performance Plus, and Pep Boys. Tranny seemed fine, was told clutch is new(er). Can't do drivetrain testing until I get the steering rack replaced. Thanks in advance for any help, ideas, or info on parts and stores. Jon Puckett |
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| Rooy | Jan 29 2010, 07:08 PM Post #2 |
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I would measure the bores and see what kind of wear you have before springing for oversize pistons and the cost to bore them. Many get away with just honing and new rings. Take it to a machinist if you don't have a bore gauge to measure. If it does need to be bored, it's wise to take off only what's needed so it can be rebuilt in the future. You only need to machine the head enough to remove any warpage, assuming it is warped. The machinist will determine that and take off what's needed. It should be safe to go more than .020". Think I've seen someone reporting .060" taken off safely. www.partsdinosaur.com is popular and seems to have good prices and plenty of items. |
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| puckett02 | Jan 29 2010, 07:42 PM Post #3 |
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I'm too much of a big block chevy guy. I was thinking more of getting more power with oversized bores and decked heads. Probly wouldn't get much more power from those things with this motor huh? Or at least not enough to justify making it non rebuild-able again. Thanks and good catch |
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| Rooy | Jan 29 2010, 08:29 PM Post #4 |
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Yeah, those methods wouldn't gain much on a G10. With only 3 cylinders, the displacement increase from a .030" overbore would be pretty small and you'd probably not notice any difference. Just bumping up the compression alone wouldn't gain much. CR is already 9.5:1. More compression along with a hotter cam, header, and multiport injection would make sense. |
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| Johnny Mullet | Jan 29 2010, 09:16 PM Post #5 |
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Fear the Mullet
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Seems like you got all your ducks in a row for this project. Also from 3Tech, get at least the 10 degree advanced timing gear (unless you have an XFi) for a little more power. You can also get economy grind cams and street cams for even more power/economy. Once the engine is rebuilt, run the ignition timing at 8-10 degrees advance to help prevent carbon buildup. Double check that rust and make sure the front horns are solid. The steering rack passes through both sides of the frame, so while you are in there yanking it out, take note of any rot. Good luck and I also recommend partsdinosaur.com
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| puckett02 | Jan 29 2010, 10:42 PM Post #6 |
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Hey, your write up on the top end rebuild is excellent! Lot's of great tips, especially on the valve lapping and the valve spring keepers are really gonna help me out. This is a "as time and money allows" rebuild for me. |
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| Woodie | Jan 30 2010, 07:09 AM Post #7 |
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Play in just one side of the steering rack is usually the "inner tie rod end", easily replaceable. About $30 for the part. That is, if the play is in and out of the rack, if the tie rod is moving up and down, then the bushings are shot and you're right, get another rack. |
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| starscream5000 | Jan 30 2010, 10:13 AM Post #8 |
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Got 70 MPG?
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My head has .040" decked off. According to Mike (suprfly) you can go up to .100" and it still would be a non interference motor
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| puckett02 | Jan 30 2010, 03:34 PM Post #9 |
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Unfortunately the play is up and down, and also a great deal of wheel play before engaging the rack either direction. Found a salvage yard in Georgetown KY that has two possible good ones for $45, whichever is the better - Autozone wants ~$430 for brand new - just not gonna happen. |
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| puckett02 | Jan 30 2010, 03:36 PM Post #10 |
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Thanks for the info
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