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| crank seal replacement; replace seal with engine in car?? | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Feb 1 2010, 11:53 AM (3,075 Views) | |
| jtucker | Feb 1 2010, 11:53 AM Post #1 |
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New Member
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Is it even possible to replace the crank oil seal with the engine in the car? Looks possible to me, although bloody knuckles would be a result I'm sure. I loose about 1/2 a quart between oil changes and after I compression check I am certain I am not burning any oil. I do have a nice black gooey mess where the crank seal is. Also I have a good bit of oil mess in the air intake where the PCV vents. Is this another problem?? 97 LSI sedan 1.3 liter |
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| Johnny Mullet | Feb 1 2010, 12:09 PM Post #2 |
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Fear the Mullet
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It's a tight fit. Most guys remove the passenger side motor mount bolts and lower the engine with a jack so they can use an impact wrench on the center bolt. The bolt is very tight. I have also heard people having to drop the oil pan and wedge a block of wood between the crank and block so the engine does not turn over when using a breaker bar. Good luck! |
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| jtucker | Feb 1 2010, 03:38 PM Post #3 |
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New Member
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Only once done any serious work to an engine and that was in a boat. Very easy to get to and remove so we rebuilt it, mostly for fun because it needed help but not a total rebuild. So I must ask a stupid question. When you say the "center bolt" you are talking about a bolt holding the main pulley onto the crank or is there something else I am missing?? On the boat motor I worked on the main pulley was connected to the crank with 3 bolts. After removing that I had to get a bearing puller to remove the pulley. Love the how to guides here. I just want to make sure I am reading them right with my little experience |
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| Johnny Mullet | Feb 1 2010, 04:32 PM Post #4 |
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Fear the Mullet
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Your 1997 Metro 1.3L should have 5 small 8mm bolts..........![]() This will allow you to remove the belt pulley. Then you remove the timing belt......... ![]() Then the large 17MM center bolt to remove the belt cog. The seal is behind there........ ![]() These images are from a 3 cylinder, but should be very similar. |
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| Metro_caon | Feb 1 2010, 05:30 PM Post #5 |
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Elite Member
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See: http://geometroforum.com/topic/1074942/1/#new I used the first method mentioned there, from r12methane and it worked fine. If I had to remove the center crank bolt again, I would use that method again. Just be very careful. |
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| bogs | Feb 1 2010, 05:57 PM Post #6 |
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Duct tape heals all wounds
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I like the tool rmcelwee made in post #8, seems to be just the trick needed, no muss no fuss (but make sure its 3" longer )
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| rmcelwee | Feb 1 2010, 10:12 PM Post #7 |
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I made my tool out of rusty angle iron. I don't think the 3" will be a problem after the next use because I think it will probably break. I have a peice of stainless that is set aside for the next one. |
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| jtucker | Feb 3 2010, 07:09 AM Post #8 |
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AHH I see said the blind man, Thanks Mullet rmcelwee (or anybody) what does "post #8 mean and how do I get to it??? Are there pics there of this "rusty angle iron"? I just love "creative engineering" as I like to call it. |
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| bogs | Feb 3 2010, 10:11 AM Post #9 |
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Duct tape heals all wounds
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->Post #8<- means that if you followed the link metro50 posted and went down to the 8th post (highlighted in yellow) you would see that, which you are right, is creative and a fairly elegant solution
Edited by bogs, Feb 3 2010, 10:11 AM.
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1:54 PM Jul 11