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| Bogging issue on 92 metro | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Feb 4 2010, 07:46 AM (3,061 Views) | |
| juggalo_joker89 | Feb 4 2010, 07:46 AM Post #1 |
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New Member
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Hi, im new to the forum and i was hoping someone here could help me out with this problem of mine. (My car and the issue I'm having) I just bought a 92 geo metro 1.0L from an older gentlemen for $550. first thing i noticed is when i tried to give it some gas while driving it bogs, and doesn't want to go, but if i let up it will go (not to quickly i might add being a metro lol). But it doesn't do the bogging when sitting at idle. (what he told me about the car) anyways, when i was going for a test drive the man told me about the check engine light and how it would flash once then twice and start over. (he told me someone told him that, that meant it was the EGR valve (im not sure if there is a fuse in the diag port, im gonna check here soon). another thing i thought you might need to know is the guy said it recently just started doing this; his had the car for a year and has not had the problem before. (what could be the problem?) Now, from what im told and i was thinking is it could be a couple or a few things. one is maybe the fuel pump is going out in the car so it looses the power to open it up, or maybe a clogged EGR valve. could also be a clogged cat perhaps? or could be that the TB needs cleaned. I'm not really sure, i did change the spark plugs and the distributor cap and rotor (brothers parts). the plug wires look newish. the air filter looks new. Does anyone know what it could be? I don't feel like replacing a bunch of things that wasn't even the problem to begin with. Edit: there was a fuse in the diag port so i guess that means that the computer is saying there is nothing wrong with the engine or just not picking up the issue. another thing is when the car is sitting and i hit the gas or rev the car it doesn't bog one bit. so does that mean its not the cat? cause im pretty sure if it was the cat then it would still bog due to the restriction, but there is no bog. also what about the fuel pump? not sure if sitting and driving is any different for fuel being pumped or is it? Edited by juggalo_joker89, Feb 4 2010, 10:43 AM.
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| carmech97 | Feb 4 2010, 09:15 AM Post #2 |
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Backyard Mechanic
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It could be that the EGR is stuck open, and that is a bad thing during acceleration, because you will lose power.(EGR normally is closed during acceleration) Another thing that you can check for is a clogged or obstructed catalytic converter or exhaust system. It happens! Been there and done that I had a Honda Prelude that would not go over 40 mph or over 2000 rpm, and that is what it turned out to be!
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| juggalo_joker89 | Feb 4 2010, 11:58 AM Post #3 |
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so, would it be easy to clean the egr valve cause i don't feel like forking out another 150 just for that.
Edited by juggalo_joker89, Feb 4 2010, 11:59 AM.
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| mwebb | Feb 4 2010, 12:39 PM Post #4 |
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FOG
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if the EGR were to be stuck open and the EGR passages were not clogged the engine would stall at idle. if you connect a vacuum gauge to the exhaust pressure port connected to the EGR back pressure transducer and drive the car at WOT , IF the exhaust were clogged the pressure gauge would show over 2 psi of pressure in the exhaust if you connect a DVOM to 02 sensor signal AND the voltage drops to zero and stays there at WOT the engine is starving for fuel IF voltage goes to about 1 volt and stays there at WOT then either the cat is clogged or the system is for some reason , getting very rich WOT = wide open throttle test - do not guess |
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| Bad Bent | Feb 4 2010, 08:33 PM Post #5 |
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Facetious Educated Donkey
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Welcome to the forum, juggalo_joker89! Well, first perform mwebbs tests. If you want to remove the EGR and clean it, you can start the engine for a few seconds with it off and you should get suction at the intake manifold and exhaust out the block. Either could be clogged and need cleaning. I would at least Seafoam the engine through the Throttle Body the first time and the brake booster vacuum hose the second time. Seafoam Maintenance. This will also produce smoke which will indicate any exhaust leak; have a friend watch for it as it's being Seafoam'd. Are the two coolant hoses on the Throttle Body hot when the engine is hot? Perform a compression test. How to: Compression Test. |
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| juggalo_joker89 | Feb 5 2010, 01:54 PM Post #6 |
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well i can't do mwebbs test's just yet, but i did do the seafoam maintenance. yes the two hoses to the TB are hot when the engine is hot. also along with the vacuum gauge i don't have a compression tester. and thanks, for the welcome Edited by juggalo_joker89, Feb 5 2010, 01:55 PM.
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| Bad Bent | Feb 5 2010, 06:46 PM Post #7 |
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Facetious Educated Donkey
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Looks like you are right between Birmingham and Huntsville so I'll suggest either for Harbor Freight and their Digital Volt Ohm Meter Click $8. and $10 compression tester. The quality is OK, IMHO and you can spend more if you wish and get more tools. Other options is a cheap parts bin at a parts store and rent the compression tester."it recently just started doing this; his had the car for a year and has not had the problem before. " and "there was a fuse in the diag port" So do you know why the fuse was in the port or what was done to the car before it "recently" started doing this? For giggles, clean the EGR as carmech97 suggests. Check out Will's Metro EGR System. What else... the PCV, accelerator cable tension, spark plugs, plug wires, distributor, and how about checking for a stretched Timing Belt? You can remove the top bolts to the timing belt cover with a 10mm socket and pull back the cover to see if the belt looks OK. Pull more back along the front and see if you can test the deflection in the belt.
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| juggalo_joker89 | Feb 5 2010, 10:47 PM Post #8 |
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yeah I'll check those out for sure as soon as I can, I know my dad has a dvom so that's fine, also might just rent a compression tester for now. I'm not actually sure, I never knew there was a fuse in that port not till till today. I'm gonna email the guy tonight and ask that very question. "what was done to the car before it "recently" started doing this" so what exactly is a pcv? I know some things about a car but not all (learning experience as I go along) I'll check the cable tomorrow and the spark plugs the second day I got it, and the distributor. for the timing belt I'll check that tomorrow as well. thanks for all this help bad bent, and carmech as well as mwebbs another thing I was wondering about is the 91 a/t and 92 a/t the same? both being 1.0L Edited by juggalo_joker89, Feb 6 2010, 12:13 AM.
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| Bad Bent | Feb 6 2010, 02:40 AM Post #9 |
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Facetious Educated Donkey
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Positive Crankcase Ventilation, PCV. Basically, your engine is sealed and the oil fumes or blow by, have no way to escape. So engineers designed a way to vent the fumes to atmosphere. Then someone said that was a bad thing for the environment so they decided to reroute the fumes back into the intake manifold and use the Throttle Body and PCV valve to vacuum the fumes from the Valve Cover. The PCV is a little ball/spring check valve that's designed to dump anything collected when there is the least amount of vacuum in the manifold - when going faster.It should rattle when you take it out and there should be no oil in the air cleaner. ![]() I used Vice Grips to open the hose clamps and a Phillips screwdriver to loosen the PCV's 2 screws. Spray with carb. cleaner or simply replace for under $15 and clean the hose. A good idea since the car is new-to-you. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PCV_valve BTW, the Accelerator cable has 0.12 - 0.20 in. (1/8 - almost 1/4") deflection when at operating temp. Oh, yes, you want one of these: shop.ebay/1992+geo+metro+manual and I'd get the one that's Gray ($13?), not the Hanes, Chilton or Tracker/Storm books. |
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| juggalo_joker89 | Feb 6 2010, 02:45 PM Post #10 |
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ok so update, on the egr system cleaning i noticed there wasn't a egr valve gasket at all. and that i don't have both egr solenoid vacuum valve. ill take a pic and show you what i mean. idk if that has to do with that i have an auto compared to the "how to" being a manual. also my car doesn't seem to have the data sticker under the hood. *sighs* also when the egr was off i started the car to hear for the leak that i read somewhere and i reached down to feel for a sucking reaction/vacuum but i didn't feel sucking.....there was the two holes, one closer to the front of the front of the car was blowing air out (used a leaf to see what it would do) then on the other hole by the firewall it isn't doing anything, is that normal? the pcv is good, im gonna have to check the accelerator cable tension later unless its ok to run the car till it warms up without the egr valve. also the timing belt is fine. Edited by juggalo_joker89, Feb 6 2010, 03:27 PM.
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| Woodie | Feb 6 2010, 06:14 PM Post #11 |
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You shouldn't need a leaf as a detector, there should be a fairy good flow of loud exhaust coming ot of there. The other one should have quite a bit of suction going on and the air going in there should make your car idle high, dropping down to normal when you put your finger on it. Won't hurt anything to let it run that way, just loud with a high idle. |
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| juggalo_joker89 | Feb 7 2010, 09:14 AM Post #12 |
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well i had gloves on due to it being cold and wet outside yesterday. and the leaf showed that there was a lot of air coming from the first one but nothing at all in the second. so does that mean the second one is clogged some how? ill check it out later when i go back out there. |
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| metroschultz | Feb 7 2010, 12:04 PM Post #13 |
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Please just call me; "Schultz"
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Yes, The intake side is clogged, you should have heard and felt, eve with gloves, the vacuum on the port. Sounds like tou might need to clean out the exhaust as well. The exhaust side will be readily audible with the engine running. |
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| juggalo_joker89 | Feb 8 2010, 08:42 AM Post #14 |
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yeah the exhaust side was loud and plenty of air was coming out of it, the intake side though was clogged pretty well, so i sprayed quite a bit of carb cleaner into there and scraped it with the small plastic straw piece from one of the empty cans. also i asked what all he did to the car before it started to bog, and he told me nothing, but after it started he told me he did these things: removed tank and cleaned it replaced vacuum lines replaced o2 sensor tried to clean carb I'm gonna do the o2 sensor check with the DVOM as mwebb said today. can I ask, would a vacuum leak cause the loss in power? just curious. also another thing, could the p and q do anything if the egr transducer is backwards? Someone else recently had the same problem and that was the cause of it. Edited by juggalo_joker89, Feb 8 2010, 09:07 AM.
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| bogs | Feb 8 2010, 12:06 PM Post #15 |
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Duct tape heals all wounds
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Well, I know vacuum leaks can cause all kinds of issues. My F250, for instance, had a small one that caused an erratic idle (alternately low / high) and the cel light to come on. So it wouldn't be beyond my belief that it could also cause bogging on acceleration/loss of power. |
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Welcome to the all new Geo Metro Forum. We hope you enjoy your visit.


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I had a Honda Prelude that would not go over 40 mph or over 2000 rpm, and that is what it turned out to be!


Looks like you are right between Birmingham and Huntsville so I'll suggest either for Harbor Freight and their Digital Volt Ohm Meter
So engineers designed a way to vent the fumes to atmosphere. Then someone said that was a bad thing for the environment so they decided to reroute the fumes back into the intake manifold and use the Throttle Body and PCV valve to vacuum the fumes from the Valve Cover. The PCV is a little ball/spring check valve that's designed to dump anything collected when there is the least amount of vacuum in the manifold - when going faster.

1:54 PM Jul 11