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No Spark??; Wont Start
Topic Started: Feb 20 2010, 01:27 AM (14,210 Views)
Spock
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Live Long and Prosper.

My money is on a blown ECU.


But let's take a step back for a second. You said something about a blown 15a fuse that operated some lights and things? What ever happened with that?

So what about that fuse? did you figure it out? Try this just for the fun of it: disconnect the battery, and take one side of the meter lead and go to that fuse (try both sides) and the other meter lead to chassis ground, with the meter on ohms 'beep' setting. If it beeps you have a short to ground....I'd start there.

If that fuse powers the ecu, and that circut is shorted, you can replace the ecu 500 million times and it will blow the ecu every time.

Just my 2 cents. Hope I helped.

Rob
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oneofakinder
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Trying Hard To Like Metro!
[ *  *  * ]
It was Fuse Number 6, which according to the book is the Ignition fuse. It hasn't blown once since I took the entire fuse block out and cleaned all the connections. I will test your ground check though.

Stratch that, It wasn't number 6 it was fuse number 3, and yes it is fixed.
Edited by oneofakinder, Mar 13 2010, 11:55 AM.
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oneofakinder
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Mwebb, with one test lead on red pin, one test lead on Yellow pin, with the harness disconnected, cranking the engine over, the voltage is 0.00. Also with the cap off the distributor, cranking the engine over, the rotor is turning just fine.
Edited by oneofakinder, Mar 15 2010, 05:36 PM.
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Memphis metro


I havent kept up with this thread, I come back to look at it and man my head is spinning! I see you say the blowing fuse problem is fixed. Parking lamps are not usually on a fuse with headlamps, find that a little strange you did something to the headlamps and that fixed that blowing fuse? I also see you say you have no check engine light. Have you checked the bulb in it? Also went back and seen you replaced the wires, I am assuming you replaced the coil wire itself also with that. Based on what has been done at this point I would have to go with the blown ecu also.
Edited by Memphis metro, Mar 15 2010, 07:47 PM.
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oneofakinder
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I think it has a lot of peoples heads spinning according the views and replys.
Metrorob, there are no shorts at the fuse block, or the fuse block under the hood.
Edited by oneofakinder, Mar 15 2010, 06:13 PM.
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oneofakinder
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I replaced the coil and 4 distributors now. I even tried to direct wire the positive side of the coil, no change.
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oneofakinder
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So now I need to find out what ECU's will interchange. The running car I pulled this last distributor/coil out of is a 1993 Metro 1.0L Standard transmission. I pulled the ECU out of it, and the numbers are wayyyyy different.
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Johnny Mullet
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Fear the Mullet

I am starting at page one and reading all this again. This has got to be solved. I will try to get an answer for you.
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Spock
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Live Long and Prosper.

Just to make sure here, this is a no spark situation, and you are sure the timing belt is intact, right?

How about voltage to the coil?

Voltage to the ECU?
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oneofakinder
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Yes timing belt is intact, I can see the cam spin and I can take the cap off and watch the rotor turn. I have voltage at the coil, I have not tested voltage at the ECU mainly because I dont know which pins to check for voltage and exactly what the voltage should be.
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Spock
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Live Long and Prosper.

This is just a 'WAG" (Wild Ass Guess)

But I figure it might be worth checking out.

After your follies with the the alternator, I think you could have barbequed almost anything electrically on that car. I'm curious, if you have been under the dash have you noticed any 'burned wire smell'?

Is there anything else that doesn't work?

I don't know how hard it is to get to the wiring harness that goes to the key switch, but if you shorted the 'kill' circuit in that harness, I think it could cause a no start. Not likely considering the key still spins the starter, but worth a look anyway.

IMHO you have a short somewhere. If you don't find it, you will throw parts at it for all eternity, and keep blowing them up.

Good luck,
Edited by Spock, Mar 16 2010, 08:40 PM.
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oneofakinder
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No Burning smell, the only thing I found that was burnt was the headlight socket on the fuse panel, and found that it's a common problem. I have been under the dash and replaced one ECU already, but I dont think it was for the same car. I've been under the dash as far as I could reach unplugging every harness and plugging them back in, checking continuity on each end of the harness after I plugged them back in. I removed the entire fuse block under the dash, cleaned it, no blown fuses, put it all back together. When this car came to my shop, you had to disconnect the battery or it would be dead by morning, this is not the case anymore. I dont know if it's just because I put a new alternator in it, or because I've fixed whatever short their may have been. Like i said, I do have another ECU here that came out of the same year model, engine, everything, but it has different numbers on the sticker on the ECU.

Also, yes, there are two things that dont work still, and they are the headlights. But if I reach my arm under the dash and wiggle that burnt harness, they will come on.
Edited by oneofakinder, Mar 16 2010, 08:46 PM.
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Johnny Mullet
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Fear the Mullet

I have the same feeling. When you pulled the negative lead from the battery with the engine running, the main ground was lost. This would cause the electrical system to try and ground itself and the weakest link in the system fried. Whether that is a simple wire or the ECU, who knows.

This makes no sense though. The CMP generates AC voltage when it spins. If there is no voltage, then it is either not spinning or Ka-Ka.

You need to also determine if the bulb is blown in the cluster for the check engine light. Maybe if it is blown, we can come up with a code.
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Johnny Mullet
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Fear the Mullet

Wait!

There is a ground located somewhere above the starter motor according to my manual. This ground is for the ECU, CMP, and AT control module (if equipped).

Find this ground and examine all wires to it.
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oneofakinder
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Alright, I found that ground, I pulled it off of the intake, cleaned all of them, also did a continuity check to the battery and all check out fine. One more thing I noticed, I dont have any fuel shooting into the Throttle body either, nor do I hear the fuel pump? I'm thinking ECU.
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