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No Spark??; Wont Start
Topic Started: Feb 20 2010, 01:27 AM (14,209 Views)
Johnny Mullet
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Fear the Mullet

No spark and no fuel now :smackface :die
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oneofakinder
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Trying Hard To Like Metro!
[ *  *  * ]
The no fuel has been all along from what I can tell, I've sprayed ether in the TB just to make sure it was getting something to fire on.
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Memphis metro


I think you need to buy some plane tickets for a couple of ASE certified geo mechanics and fly them in there with you and maybe between all three heads get your fuel and gas back!
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oneofakinder
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Trying Hard To Like Metro!
[ *  *  * ]
I can fit it in my 12 foot enclosed cargo trailer.
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Johnny Mullet
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Fear the Mullet

If you have no spark then spraying fuel or starting fluid into it will do nothing. There are fuses and relays under the hood for the fuel injection and ignition. Do they have power and ground?
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oneofakinder
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Trying Hard To Like Metro!
[ *  *  * ]
yes they have power and ground.
Hold that thought, I've had this fuse block out too, checking continuity also, and everything checked out fine, but the voltage I did not check. I'm checking right now.
Edited by oneofakinder, Mar 16 2010, 10:05 PM.
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oneofakinder
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Trying Hard To Like Metro!
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I do have 12 volts at the Fuel InJection relay, and the Fuel Pump relay. I also have 12 volts at the 15A fuse for the Fuel Injection
Edited by oneofakinder, Mar 16 2010, 10:16 PM.
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pancakeron
New Member
[ *  * ]
FWIW.... I tried scanning some pages from the '94 factory service manual...but
my scanner is afu....so i tried taking pics with my cam...i did take pics of the electrical
diagrams related to the ecu/ig and also for the headlights... they didnt turn out real good but
still may be useable....

once there, select the full screen display, or whatever option will show the "full size"
hopefully they will still be readable...(look closely)

i put them in a photobucket slideshow that anyone can access
by clicking <HERE>

EDIT: ....looks like the slideshow doesnt do it like i thought, so...click on this pic to go to my
photo album, where you can see each pic full size and/or download etc...
my geo photo album is here--->> Posted Image
clik on the pic

note...the 1st thumbnail in the album will give you the slideshow.... skip it and clik on the next ones, to see the individual shots...hope this all makes sense...!?

I'm pretty sure the '93 and '94 are the same...(i use it for my '93 vert when necessary)
good luck!

Edited by pancakeron, Mar 17 2010, 12:07 AM.
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slander
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Tech Certified

It's the ground on the back of the intake manifold I'd be willing to bet. It's on the passenger side, on the very back of the intake. There's a single wire ground. I've made that mistake many times myself. Needless to say, I don't forget that ground wire anymore.
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Jittney
Anchorage 92 XFi

OK, so I've re read this Never Ending Story, :holycrap and have come to the conclusion that if it were my car, before I'd buy and put in one more part, I'd beg, borrow or steal a running 93 and take whatever part I thought was wrong and put it in the running car to see if it was really bad. And if I could persuade the owner of said 93 to stay with the car (they might if they value their car being touched by you :D ) I'd put them side by side and start doing a comparison of the wiring; probably with a test meter. Just my $.02 worth of fiscal sanity.
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bogs
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Duct tape heals all wounds

If it were my never ending story, I would have swallowed whatever pride I may or may not have and flown the Mullet of Ox in by now :ermm:
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Bad Bent
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Facetious Educated Donkey

Hate to be redundant but IMHO everyone should know about a "Load Dump." Disconnecting the battery ground is not, NOT a way to test the alternator.

"Load dump, in automotive electronics, refers to the disconnection of the vehicle battery from the alternator while the battery is being charged. Due to such a disconnection of the battery, other loads connected to the alternator see a surge in power line. The peak voltage of this surge may be as high as 120 V and the surge may take up to 400 ms to decay." - wikipedia.org/Load_dump Ours is a 12V system so this is 10X the voltage.

In technical terms; www.sae.org/automag/semi42

I found this line in Wiki... "This kind of a spike would damage any semiconductor device, e.g. ECUs, that may be connected to the alternator."

I'll offer that there is a diode in the engine bay fuse box that may have fried. Any fusible link or in short, anything fed current by the alternator and grounded is suspect. So a continuity test on all such wires and a voltage drop test on components would be in order.
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oneofakinder
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Trying Hard To Like Metro!
[ *  *  * ]
Update, The car was bought back by the GEO mechanic that sold it to my sister. Not my problem anymore, thanks for all the help and suggestions.
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Dugger
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oneofakinder
Apr 3 2010, 05:37 PM
Update, The car was bought back by the GEO mechanic that sold it to my sister. Not my problem anymore, thanks for all the help and suggestions.
enough with the teaser.Inquiring minds want to know how it was fixed :hmm
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bigsquat
Member
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dam ,i just went through this whole thing and couldnt wait to see the final verdic. i have the same problem ,my ground cable to the battery was loose and probably fried the same part as his. i hope i dont have to give up just yet.
one thing that mweeb said is that the cmp should put out 1 vac or more, all his replacement moduals had the same out put and so does the one on mine. im thinking that the value mweeb is stating might be off. or all 5 of his and mine were all bad? that diode just controls idle speed as far as i can tell . any way i have a thread called WONT START on this forum ,if you have any more input on this matter please post it there for me.
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