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| Water pump?; Belt squeel and pulley wobble. | |
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| Topic Started: Mar 6 2010, 11:10 AM (492 Views) | |
| lmb97 | Mar 6 2010, 11:10 AM Post #1 |
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The belt has been squeeling for some time now when the engine is cold, but after less than a minute while idling it would stop. Yesterday it stopped cold at a traffic circle but I was able to restart. It squawked off and on all the way home. When I opened the hood I noticed that the water pump pulley has a wobble. The engine does not overheat. I am missing work, so any help including a rough idea of how much this is going to cost me would be of great help. |
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| iamgeo | Mar 6 2010, 11:58 AM Post #2 |
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Did you check to see if the bolts are loose? maybe missing one or more? |
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| lmb97 | Mar 6 2010, 12:20 PM Post #3 |
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Thank you, yes I did check them and they are tight. The wobbling appears to be on the pulley only. Does this seem to you like a bad water pump? |
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| Johnny Mullet | Mar 6 2010, 12:29 PM Post #4 |
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"Geo Whisperer"
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You need a new water pump. Now is the time to replace the timing belt also. There is a timing belt guide in the Guides/How To section to help you. |
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| iamgeo | Mar 6 2010, 12:36 PM Post #5 |
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Even though the belt is still on, can you wiggle the pulley? If so I would think the water pump is bad. |
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| lmb97 | Mar 6 2010, 12:49 PM Post #6 |
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Just went back out, started it. The wobble is intermittent and it is scraping metal when it does. And with the engine off the pulley has a tiny bit of play. |
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| idmetro | Mar 6 2010, 01:25 PM Post #7 |
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As mentioned above - Time to suck it up and get a new water pump at least; preferably do the timing belt at the same time and then you will be good to go. It's a weekend job for a newbie, a couple hours (or perhaps less for some of the lightning fast members) for someone who has done it before. Like Johnny Mullet says read through the how to replace a timing belt guide and you'll be well on your way. Should you get stuck someone will be here (that's the beauty of the internet). |
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| lmb97 | Mar 6 2010, 03:49 PM Post #8 |
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Thanks guys, I'm jumping into it. I'm not a real mechanic so wish me well on this one. I'll let you know how it turns out. |
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| f100240 | Mar 6 2010, 06:58 PM Post #9 |
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You should also do the cam seal, crank seal, timing belt tensioner pulley. and probably all other belts. There's a gasket behind the cam gear which is part of the timing belt cover gasket set that should be replaced to keep dirt off the end of the camshaft. If you have a 1.3 L auto its a much bigger pain. I had to run around locating a chain wrench to hold the timing belt pulley so that I could tighten the crankshaft bolt. I'm slow, and it took me much longer than part of a weekend , as I see you're starting late on Saturday. I also replaced the thermostat and radiator cap as they were 15 years old. Good luck. f100 |
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| Johnny Mullet | Mar 6 2010, 09:42 PM Post #10 |
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"Geo Whisperer"
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Yes. When the cover is off then you can inspect for oil leaks where the cam is and the crank. |
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| lmb97 | Mar 7 2010, 03:22 PM Post #11 |
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Well, I am still at it on Sunday and it looks like I will have to continue tomorrow morning. I have no wheels to get back to the parts store so the rest of what you all said to replace I won't be able to do. Two questions, do I need to work to get all the old gasket material off before I put on the new water pump gasket? And, I marked the belt and gears both top and bottom before I took off the timing belt, but should I go by those marks or the ones on the illustration? |
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| Johnny Mullet | Mar 7 2010, 09:02 PM Post #12 |
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"Geo Whisperer"
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All the old gasket material must be removed. A dremel with a wire brush or some other power tool makes it easy, but you can carefully scrape the old material with a razor or sharp, thin putty knife or even sandpaper. Marks on the illustration are correct. |
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| lmb97 | Mar 8 2010, 04:11 PM Post #13 |
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I was on my way to work and broke down, overheating, need to locate the thermostat. Where is it? Can I take it out, leave it out to drive back and forth to work? Will that solve the problem do you think? (Wife asking this) Thanks! |
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| CityConnection | Mar 8 2010, 04:40 PM Post #14 |
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This is you, so you must be online
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the thermostat may be working fine. You need to "burp" all the air out of the system. I usually do this by parking on a steep driveway and when the engine is cool I open the radiator cap. Then I start the car and let it warm up. As the car gets warmer it will start to push coolant out of the radiator. Let it do this a few times till it settles down. Then add your new coolant/water mix. Let the engine warm up again and see if it pushes the water back out. It may take 2 or more times to get all the air out. Once you do it should work fine. Thermostats can only operate with water, not air. So if a pocket of air sits on the thermostat it won't open and that will cause the engine to overheat. Yes, you can run a car without a thermostat but it isn't recommended. In the long run this will cause the car to never reach operating temp and can accelerate internal engine wear. *EDIT* the thermostat is where the upper radiator hose meets the engine, not the radiator. You remove the thermostat housing (2 bolts IIRC) and the actual thermostat sits behind it. Make sure you clean the mating surfaces of all the old gasket material before installing the new thermostat and gasket. Make sure you get a thermostat with a "jiggle hole". This is a small hole drilled in the thermostat or a hole with a little piece of loose metal that "jiggles" in it. This will prevent air locks in the future by allowing air past the thermostat even when closed. Edited by CityConnection, Mar 8 2010, 04:44 PM.
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| lmb97 | Mar 9 2010, 12:37 PM Post #15 |
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I followed your instructions. I changed the thermostat first just in case, and then burped it twice. the first time it volcanoed out and the 2nd it didn't. But each time it took running the engine at a high rpm to get the temp up to the top of the guage. Idling doesn't raise the temp high, but high rpms does. That's why it overheated driving down the road. Suggestions? Also, no sign of any head gasket problems, dip-stick has no bubbles and there has been no knocking. Wife here.~(husband had to go to work or be fired so is driving, stopping, driving stopping, 35 mile drive until her gets there). I noticed a leak today while he was getting ready for work, under the water pump he had just put in. It was greasy, did not smell like antifreeze but could have been a mixture as the antifreeze that was drained out in the first place was mucky. Also when he started up to leave today, it squealed again, making me think the belts aren't tight enough. (I've been broken down a kizillion times so I've developed a knack for sounds and learned a few things along the way). Also, there was a new timing belt put on the car about 3,000. Thanks for all the input from you "guys!" Any ideas for the overheating? Definitely don't want to blow the engine! Edited by lmb97, Mar 9 2010, 01:58 PM.
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