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Our new "One liter can of whoopa$$"; Our LeMons racecar build
Topic Started: Mar 21 2010, 12:50 PM (18,493 Views)
dayle1960
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Fastest Hampster EVER

The simplest way to check for a leak is to............replace all of your vacuum lines. 10 bucks. Look, simply pull off one line on the TB. Is it a snug fit? No? Well you have a leak. Spend the ten bucks and put a smile on you face. :D
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DrDomer
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dayle1960
Mar 5 2011, 09:32 PM
The simplest way to check for a leak is to............replace all of your vacuum lines. 10 bucks. Look, simply pull off one line on the TB. Is it a snug fit? No? Well you have a leak. Spend the ten bucks and put a smile on you face. :D
Will do! Thanks.
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Johnny Mullet
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Fear the Mullet

A can of carb cleaner can be used to find the leak. Engine idling, start spraying in certain spots until you hear RPM drop.
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DrDomer
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Johnny Mullet
Mar 5 2011, 09:57 PM
A can of carb cleaner can be used to find the leak. Engine idling, start spraying in certain spots until you hear RPM drop.
Thanks. That'll help when we don't find this infamous loose vacuum hose. :D
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Bad Bent
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Facetious Educated Donkey

DrDomer
Mar 5 2011, 09:09 PM
http://s120.photobucket.com/albums/o173/cromec/Geo%20Metro%20Build/?action=view&current=100_0008.mp4We

1) We have timing set at +10 (based upon what we could see today). What should we be at?

We have not done any road tests yet. It was snowing today, and the car has no windows and high perf summer tires. We will fill up with 93 octane (tank is about empty).
3) Are we blithering idiots and hopeless?
1) Your +10 ignition timing will be great, IMHO. That is what I am running with a 218/350 cam and it loves it.
2) Why do you say 93 octane?
3) At least you don't appear to be drooling. :drool ... :lol

Some carbon build-up in the EGR is normal and you should look at Metro EGR System and test the passages. Run it a few seconds with the EGR removed and you will get air pressure and vacuum out the two ports. Doubtful the EGR was stuck open and causing the vacuum leak? How new is the PCV valve?
Have you seen the Seafoam maintenance thread?

It sounds really good. :thumb
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Woodie
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DrDomer
Mar 5 2011, 09:09 PM


3) Are we blithering idiots and hopeless?
Most likely, but I don't see any evidence of that here. ^o)

10° advance is a good number to start at, it'll probably take more. Mike can give you much better advice on this than anyone, he knows your cam and sprocket (he also knows racing G10's) With 93 octane you can probably just spin it all the way to the end of the slot. There's really no need for high octane gas though.
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3tech
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91 octane should be fine, and you might actually be able to run 87, but for what it's worth, I'd be careful, and run the 91. Experiment with the timing, and see what works best for you. You may end up with it advanced all the way.

Regarding your high idle, if i recall, you had the throttle bored, correct? I would look there first. B
Also, be aware of the way it drives, and the possibility that your sprocket could be out by 1 tooth. Not that it is, but it's a very common mistake - I've done it myself.
It should feel like it did before, but with more power everywhere, and more of a willingness to pull to ~6500.

Just curious, what size did he bore the tb to?
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DrDomer
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He bored the TB to 39mm. We will check vacuum lines for idle issue. Then once we can get it on the street (or track) we will check how it "feels" and pulls to redline (we typically have only run it up to 6000 rpm in the past during races as it really wouldn't pull past that.. even in 3rd gear). It didn't idle rough or sound funny at all, just idled high. It actually sounded pretty good. The toughest part is that the car is fully caged and only has one headlight and no plates, so driving it too much on the street is a risky proposition.

Thanks Mike for all your help. We really appreciate everyone's advice. We will check in with more info when available.
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DrDomer
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We got to drive the car a little on Wednesday. We replaced every vacuum line that looked suspect. Couldn't find any obvious leaks with the carb cleaner trick. Did notice out throttle cable may have been positioned a little taught, and now she idles about 1400 RPM with a nice cam burble. The car seems to accelerate much more briskly, but I was only able to run it up to 3rd gear on a side street. I'll post a vid tonight, and you guys can tell me what you think.

We've also added some "aero" mods. I found a new type of fiberglass lawn edging!!! Pics will be up later today.
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snowfish
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Basic GearHead

Might want to try plugging the vacuum line for the IAC. Probably could just disconnect it from the air cleaner & hold your finger over it. If the idle drops, then the IAC isn't doing what it's supposed to.

Then it's one of two things...........

Not getting the proper signal from the ECU. Not likely in my brief experience.

Or, more likely, the IAC plunger spring is corrupt.

I fixed the IAC plunger spring using a retractable ball point pen spring. Nice!

Here's the Thread outlining what was done.
http://geometroforum.com/topic/4074513/1/

Nice Job Guys! :thumb
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DrDomer
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Thanks. I will try messing with the idle control valve, etc.
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Murf 59
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Thanks for the shots Doc. Great pics. Can you run an exhaust manifold that is matched ported to the head??? While its not as good as a header. It will flow( I still love Flo ) more air. With one of 3Techs heads it'll work bitchin.
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DrDomer
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We can do whatever we want... To stay under $500. We may be done with power mods for this first race. But we have a race in August and in October. So more stuff could be done.

I actually enjoyed driving the car on Wednesday... It was kinda... Peppy?

Pics later tonight. Stuck at work. Vid coming too.
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DrDomer
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Well.. Here we go.

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Still pics are nice.. but here's a vid. :thumb

Vroom Vroom

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3tech
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Sounds like it picked up a little compression over the winter :D

You're not revving it high enough. Shift just under the rev limiter.
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