Welcome to the all new Geo Metro Forum. We hope you enjoy your visit.You're currently viewing our forum as a guest. This means you are limited to certain areas of the board and there are features you can't use and images you can't see. Registration is simple, fast, and completely free. If you're already a member please log in to your account to access all of our features: Join our community! |
| Our new "One liter can of whoopa$$"; Our LeMons racecar build | |
|---|---|
| Tweet Topic Started: Mar 21 2010, 12:50 PM (18,490 Views) | |
| n545ca | Mar 26 2011, 09:04 PM Post #196 |
|
Advanced Member
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
|
Great posts Doc! For those interested in checking out a real live Lemons race, more importantly...one with a Geo in it. Check out the link to our race at Gingerman raceway http://www.24hoursoflemons.com/ginger2011.aspx All the info you need right here. Hope we can see some of you enthusiasts there. |
![]() |
|
| Murf 59 | Apr 4 2011, 10:24 AM Post #197 |
![]()
|
On your final ratio. Try using tires that are just a bit shorter than what you have on the car. It will wind up much faster. With the 4.39s and a tire that is 1" shorter should be great. If you guys come up with a set of gears. Send me the unit and I will do the change out for you. No charge guys. Will also give it the once over for all the bearings and syncros too. Let me know |
![]() |
|
| DrDomer | Jul 27 2011, 09:18 AM Post #198 |
|
Advanced Member
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
|
Long time... No posts. Linking a thread in these forums about the new children's book written about our Geo Metro Race Car ... http://geometroforum.com/topic/4437734/1/?x=0#post515318 |
![]() |
|
| DrDomer | Jun 16 2012, 07:33 PM Post #199 |
|
Advanced Member
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
|
Well... It again has been a long time since I have posted. In total, our little Metro has won 3 races in class C and the coveted Index of Effluency in the 24 hours of Lemons races. It has covered over 3500 miles on the track, with 99% of the laps traveled with the car in 3rd gear at wide open throttle. It has spent most of it's time between 5-7K RPM. Our most recent race ended with us in 8th overall out of 65 cars, and over 35 laps ahead of the 2nd place class C car. We have now been bumped to class B. We now finally need some real horsepower so we can dominate class B. We feel we've absolutely maximized the 1.0L engine (without turbocharging). Given the length and intensity of our races, we don't feel forced induction would be reliable enough (although simple to implement). I've been doing some research on possible engine swaps. I know everyone will automatically suggest the Swift motor, but we want more than 100HP. Does anyone know of a 4-cyl 2.0L DOHC motor swap from a Neon into the Metro? These motors have been surprisingly reliable in endurance racing. The front track width of a Neon is only 3 inches wider than a Metro. I need to get in and around a neon, and get some measurements. If we don't do something to get more power for our little Metro, it may be retired as a racecar. We have added a 1987 BMW 325es to our race team, and that car finished 4th overall in the last race and competes in Class A. I've looked at the civic engine swap thread, and it isn't detailed enough for me to make a conclusion on difficulty. I think I can get a Neon engine/tranny cheaper than a Civic engine/tranny. Of course, if we are going to do an engine swap, we will need suspension and brake upgrades. Looking forward to more fun updates and taking our build to the next level.
|
![]() |
|
| Coche Blanco | Jun 16 2012, 08:06 PM Post #200 |
|
Troll Certified
![]()
|
I think a turbo G10 would probably more reliable than you think... Just saying |
![]() |
|
| DrDomer | Jun 16 2012, 08:35 PM Post #201 |
|
Advanced Member
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
|
Not enough HP and heat is a huuuuge problem with forced induction. In general, in a crapcan race series like 24HOL or Chump Car, turbocharging is the quickest way to doing an engine swap in the paddock. |
![]() |
|
| starscream5000 | Jun 16 2012, 08:59 PM Post #202 |
|
Got 70 MPG?
![]()
|
I figured a Metro would be in class F,
|
![]() |
|
| Murf 59 | Jun 17 2012, 04:04 AM Post #203 |
![]()
|
Hey Dr. Can you PM me???? |
![]() |
|
| DrDomer | Jun 19 2012, 10:55 PM Post #204 |
|
Advanced Member
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
|
Well... We're reconsidering forced induction. We aren't going to run the car at Road America in August, but we want to run it in October at Autobahn. We have won Class C at every Autobahn race we've entered. Now we will be in class B. We actually would've finished 2nd in class B at the last race. The fall race is typically more competitive with more cars than the summer race. So... We need more HP... and we don't have time to do an engine swap during the summer as many of our team members are racing and have other projects. Now I need to educate myself on turbocharging. I've read Corky Bell's book in the past on turbocharging, so I have some basic understanding, but I have never added a turbocharger to a N/A engine that wasn't designed for it. I need the Cliff Notes version of what I need to purchase, and cooling the engine will be important. I don't have to have 100HP, but 90HP would be nice. I have to make it reliable. The car will have to run for 16hrs in 2 days at wide open throttle. I'm all ears.
Edited by DrDomer, Jun 19 2012, 10:56 PM.
|
![]() |
|
| NCKracing | Jun 20 2012, 06:33 AM Post #205 |
|
FriggenFragger
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
|
This info maybe useless to you but here it is anyway. Years ago I bought a 91' Talon fwd TSI. I was going to UTI at the time and they have a dyno for the 'hot hod u' courses. I dynoed my bone stock tsi and it made 145hp at the wheels with 10psi, then I did a free mod that upped the boost to 13psi and dynoed again, this time it made 156hp. Thats a increase of 3.67hp per psi. Then I put on a boost controller and upped it to 18psi, on that run it made 205hp, an increase of 9.8hp per psi. I thought it was interesting how the hp per psi went up so much. The car ended up being a monster after LOTS of mods and 1st and 2nd gear were almost useless and 3rd gear also from 5k to 7k rpm during WOT. To bad it wasn't awd. The tsi had a 7.8-1 static compression ratio.
|
![]() |
|
| DrDomer | Nov 20 2012, 06:29 PM Post #206 |
|
Advanced Member
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
|
The new chapter begins... We're back!
|
![]() |
|
| DrDomer | Nov 20 2012, 06:31 PM Post #207 |
|
Advanced Member
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
|
After 7 races and almost 4000 racing miles... we're gonna up the ante. Plan to transplant a 1.8L M42 from a E36 BMW 318is. Switching to rear wheel drive. Let the fabrication begin. It may be slow, but we hope to have the project done and ready to race by April 20th. I'll try to update here. |
![]() |
|
| Coche Blanco | Nov 20 2012, 06:55 PM Post #208 |
|
Troll Certified
![]()
|
Goooooooooodddddd |
![]() |
|
| DrDomer | Nov 25 2012, 04:52 PM Post #209 |
|
Advanced Member
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
|
Got some measurements done today. Looks like the Metro engine bay has 5 less inches behind the strut towers to the firewall than an E30 (5" vs 10"). The distance from the firewall to the radiator supports is within an inch of each other. The distance from where the BMW subframe will sit to the hood is about 25" in both cars. That is more similar than our initial eye-ball estimates. Factory track width figures are only 2" different. Nothing some fender flares won't fix. ![]() We're planning on transplanting the entire front end of an E30 to use the subframe, suspension, control arms, hubs, brakes, steering rack, etc. The hope is to limit mating Geo parts to BMW parts. We'll have to fabricate mounts for the and will likely have to modify the shock towers somewhat. We will be moving a (M42) 1.8L 4-cylinder with manual tranny from an E36 1994 318is. Obviously we will be creating a transmission tunnel, and will be transplanting an E30 rear end with LSD and good gears for the race track. We can then have 4 wheel disc brakes. The wheelbase is a few inches longer in the E30, so we may move back (yes.. back) the location of the rear wheels a little bit and also modify the driveshaft. May look at an early Z3 driveshaft as an option. We actually need the rear wheels to move back a little due to the mounting points of the rear main stays of our roll cage. There is a new ruling that says the rear-most portion of the mounting plates have to be in front of the rear of the back tires. We may be in violation of this rule as things sit now. With the rear track width widening, we'll need to create fender flares of some sort. We plan to eliminate the current stock fuel tank, and install a FIA-rated fuel cell. There won't be room in the stock location with the new drivetrain. We'll likely mount it in the rear hatch area, hopefully in front of the rear main stays of the roll-cage. We'll have to cage the fuel cell also. In addition, we'll be relocating the battery to the rear of the car, not sure on the location yet. Hopefully my next update will be with pictures as we get the BMW and Metro side by side with BMW parts laying against the Metro. |
![]() |
|
| econoboxer | Nov 25 2012, 05:34 PM Post #210 |
|
I am the one on the left.
![]()
|
custom drive line to make everything work? Hmmm, can be a ton of fun. My sister in law builds custom drivelines here in Utah. |
![]() |
|
| 1 user reading this topic (1 Guest and 0 Anonymous) | |
| Go to Next Page | |
| « Previous Topic · Project Forum · Next Topic » |


Welcome to the all new Geo Metro Forum. We hope you enjoy your visit.


![]](http://z3.ifrm.com/static/1/pip_r.png)






7:23 PM Jul 10