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The White One
Topic Started: Mar 28 2010, 09:44 PM (10,158 Views)
Coche Blanco
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Now, for the good stuff. My car has been needing a rebuild for quite a while now, and I think this summer i'm going to give it one. I have to wait until the guy with the 4 door either says yes or no on selling me the car. He want 150 for it, maybe, and if I can get it for that I am selling the white one for hopefully 600+ and use the money to do a good rebuild of the new 4 door.

If that doesn't work/go through, I am saving up until I get about 700 dollars and will do a good rebuild on the white one, and probably a couple hundred more on a moderate restoration. (that's enough money right?) My last option is buy the 4 door, sell the 4door for a lot more, and rebuild the whit one.

My options:
Buy 4 door, sell white one, rebuild/restore 4 door with money from sale.
Save money to rebuild/restore white one.
Buy 4 door, sell 4 door, rebuild/restore white one with money from sale.


My plans:
226/365 cam w/+10 cam gear
3 tech performance head
aluminum underdrive
grounding kit
new exhaust; something that sounds good
ram air, DIY of course
lower/cut springs
KYB struts
new rotors/pad


That's pretty much it, except for some various other stuff?
Edited by Coche Blanco, Oct 15 2011, 03:50 AM.
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zippy
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or drive the white one a bit longer, buy 4 door, keep white one, and rebuild as needed. better to have two cars than one. its hard to get to the parts store when you are working on your only car. :) just a thought....
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bogs
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Duct tape heals all wounds

If the other is even for sale eh? But yah, rest of it sounds great :thumb
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Coche Blanco
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I don't know if keeping both is an option, it may be, I didn't think if doing that.
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Coche Blanco
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So, it stopped smoking, but now it's running poorly.


Cylinder Compression:
1: 190 2: 190 3: 150

I feel like number three has a problem, but when I removed the sparkplug wires, number one pulled out (like it wasn't connected).

Will update later.
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Coche Blanco
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Still runs bad, timing may be off. Once I release the gas, the engine seems to rev slower and slower and slower, but doesn't die. Exhaust sounds different now, guesses?
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3cylgeo
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check spark on 3. washing down the cyl wall with gas can cause low comp
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Coche Blanco
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3cylgeo
Apr 5 2010, 07:45 PM
check spark on 3. washing down the cyl wall with gas can cause low comp
I'll have to do that, I took pics of the plugs...if that helps any.

http://img535.imageshack.us/i/dscn6584.jpg/
http://img8.imageshack.us/i/dscn6586e.jpg/
http://img42.imageshack.us/i/dscn6585w.jpg/
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Bad Bent
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Facetious Educated Donkey

The plugs do look wet so is it running rich as 3cylgeo suggests? I always like the nice gray ground electrodes.

I found this "In general, a light tan/gray color tells you that the spark plug is operating at optimum temperature and that the engine is in good condition. Dark coloring, such as heavy black wet or dry deposits can indicate an overly-rich condition, too cold a heat range spark plug, a possible vacuum leak, low compression, overly retarded timing or too large a plug gap. If the deposits are wet, it can be an indication of a breached head gasket, poor oil control from ring or valvetrain problems or an extremely rich condition - depending on the nature of the liquid present at the firing tip. " if that helps. :hmm
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Coche Blanco
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Bad Bent
Apr 6 2010, 01:47 AM
The plugs do look wet so is it running rich as 3cylgeo suggests? I always like the nice gray ground electrodes.
What is the best way to check?
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allmountain40
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If its running rich you should get a check engine light and check the codes. Also if it is really rich you would smell fuel and/or have white smoke from tailpipe. Black smoke is too lean, and blue is oil by the way. But if it is so rich that it is fouling your plug, you should get a check engine light. Given your compression test numbers, I would suspect a bad valve. The last bad valve I had measured at 150 p.s.i, and these engines really like to burn #3 for some odd reason that nobody has really nailed down. Theories abound on this.
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Coche Blanco
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allmountain40
Apr 6 2010, 08:28 PM
If its running rich you should get a check engine light and check the codes. Also if it is really rich you would smell fuel and/or have white smoke from tailpipe. Black smoke is too lean, and blue is oil by the way. But if it is so rich that it is fouling your plug, you should get a check engine light. Given your compression test numbers, I would suspect a bad valve. The last bad valve I had measured at 150 p.s.i, and these engines really like to burn #3 for some odd reason that nobody has really nailed down. Theories abound on this.
I was wondering what the BEST way was, I know the basic stuff about these engines.
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allmountain40
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You've already done the best test, compression. You know you have a problem on number three. This much loss of compression means bad rings, or the number one problem, burned valve. The best check now is to pull apart and inspect valve and do leakdown test to check for bad rings. My moneys on valve.
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Bad Bent
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Facetious Educated Donkey

Coche Blanco
Apr 6 2010, 08:39 PM
I was wondering what the BEST way was, I know the basic stuff about these engines.
Besides those mentioned I'll ask if the plugs smelled like gas or not? Is the fluid on the threads oil or gas? How's the continuity on the #3 plug wire? Is the engine well grounded? Resistance is 3-6.5k ohms per foot on "secondary wires" aka plug wires.
I'm working around the issue of low compression on #3 and the thought of a leak down test.
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Coche Blanco
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Ill have to do more troubleshooting this weekend, school's being a pain. :P

Senior year!!!
Edited by Coche Blanco, Jul 11 2010, 08:56 AM.
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