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| The White One | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Mar 28 2010, 09:44 PM (10,163 Views) | |
| mcmancuso | Jul 16 2010, 01:52 PM Post #181 |
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Man that's why I did mine myself, way too much money for some bolt turning
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| Coche Blanco | Jul 16 2010, 01:53 PM Post #182 |
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Troll Certified
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I did mine myself, but it's not 100%. It turns right easier than it turns left... |
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| zippy | Jul 16 2010, 02:24 PM Post #183 |
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i would go with the 169 lifetime.....thats what i got at the local firestone, and i get an alignment whenever i suspect anything. (or just want to watch the local grease monkeys work.....lol) it may piss them off, but its lifetime...they have to. half of the time, they dont even need to do anything, but i figure i WILL get my moneys worth |
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| Coche Blanco | Jul 16 2010, 08:41 PM Post #184 |
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Troll Certified
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What cause a "Whirring" noise from the cam belt? Too tight? Would too tight cam caps make the noise? I think I may have tightened them too much... |
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| bogs | Jul 17 2010, 03:55 AM Post #185 |
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Duct tape heals all wounds
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Well, I'm sure not the one to ask, I only get alignments when I buy a set of tires. |
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| Coche Blanco | Jul 17 2010, 06:10 PM Post #186 |
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Troll Certified
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Cruise control is complete. I am proud of myself... |
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| mwebb | Jul 17 2010, 09:09 PM Post #187 |
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FOG
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compression tests are for the birds they will id a dead nutz compression problem most of the time but very often a compression test will not flag a problem a leak down test never misses and intake vacuum at hot idle never misses if that needle is not rock steady sold smooth at 20" you have a valve sealing issue Teed into the MAP sensor vacuum line before the restriction orifice if you can use a ignition scope on 2ndary ignition look at the center of the burn line at 2k rpm high frequency hash that does not reach zero close to the flame out is caused by combustion gases screaming past the spark plug (and blowing through the flame) through the leaking valve. high frequency hash that does reach ground is carbon tracking and may originate at the front not center of the burn line . pressure transducer in the exhaust will show a pressure or sound peak at near TDC of the offending cylinder . 02 sensor may reveal something but results are not consistent depending on the severity of the problem and temperature of the engine and exhaust manifold . mine has leaking valves based on 2ndary ignition waveforms my compression is "good" .... allegedly. ================================================ i will do the singh grooves thing on mine when i do it i recommend that you do the same and add that to your list along with increasing compression by either shaving the head or replacing the pistons with higher compression versions IF you have damaged pistons . |
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| snowfish | Jul 17 2010, 09:59 PM Post #188 |
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Basic GearHead
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Mr White Car, I'm pretty sure the whirring noise is the new timing belt. My resent refresh (heart transplant project) had a couple strange noises. A pretty loud whirring noise and an inconsistent whirring noise. Kind of a double whammy. The inconsistent one was the time cover rubbing on the crank pulley. I should have notice the grooves upon reassembly. It must have gotten warped from age or over torquing at some point before me. The trusty dremel tool took the high spots down. Clearance is still a frog hair, but the sound is gone.For the consistent whirring, I had the timing belt a little bit tight I think. I may be the only one, but I didn't trust the 19 year rusty timing belt tensioner spring to be adequate. I gave it just a little push more before tightening. The belt noise was pretty loud. I decided to let the old spring do the tension and then torque it down.So now with the timing cover trimmed, and the 19 year old timing belt tensioner spring doing it's job, it sounds pretty nice. Still a little bit of that whirring sound, but I have reason to beleive it's normal until the new timing belt becomes acquainted with the old sprockets. In other word, broken in. I highly doubt that over tightening the cam caps would produce that sound. If you torqued them to spec, I'm sure they're fine.Webb, I wish that I could spend an afternoon, with you, in your garage. I'm sure my head would be spinning, but I know a lot would be learned. Thanks for all that you do.Edited by snowfish, Jul 17 2010, 10:01 PM.
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| Coche Blanco | Jul 17 2010, 10:16 PM Post #189 |
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Troll Certified
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I'll have to record a video. |
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| Coche Blanco | Jul 18 2010, 12:22 AM Post #190 |
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Troll Certified
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I bought some Mobile 1 0w30...but knowing my engine is warm...is it a bad idea to run it? Should I got return it and get 5w30 or 10w30? I'm running 10w30 and it only smokes when I rev it on an incline or cold starts. |
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| Woodie | Jul 18 2010, 03:55 AM Post #191 |
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Ouch, that's $100 too high. |
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| Woodie | Jul 18 2010, 03:59 AM Post #192 |
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I doubt you'd see very much difference between any of those three. Maybe a bit more smoking at startup with the 0W-30 as it is thinner when cold. |
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| Coche Blanco | Jul 18 2010, 10:18 AM Post #193 |
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Troll Certified
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Would you get 10w30 to make it smoke less? |
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| mwebb | Jul 18 2010, 01:46 PM Post #194 |
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FOG
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no is not correct HELL no . is |
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| Coche Blanco | Jul 18 2010, 02:08 PM Post #195 |
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Troll Certified
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0w30 or 5w30? |
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It must have gotten warped from age or over torquing at some point before me. The trusty dremel tool took the high spots down. Clearance is still a frog hair, but the sound is gone.
The belt noise was pretty loud. I decided to let the old spring do the tension and then torque it down.
I highly doubt that over tightening the cam caps would produce that sound. If you torqued them to spec, I'm sure they're fine.
Thanks for all that you do.
7:12 PM Jul 10