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| 1989 Geo Metro 3 Cyl 5 speed 3 door; Mechanical Restoration only, cosemetics will have to wait! | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Apr 2 2010, 03:20 PM (5,779 Views) | |
| Nate | Apr 2 2010, 03:20 PM Post #1 |
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Ok, I'm diving in here! Time to start getting some much needed help on my 1989 Metro Lsi 3/5 Mechanical Restoration project I'll have to jump over to the Introductions area so I can properly join the group as well First things first.... how do you guys put pictures on your posts? Without pictures I will have to write a book to explain my questions. Plus, everyone likes pictures so they can learn a thing or two while reading along right? |
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| allmountain40 | Apr 2 2010, 06:05 PM Post #2 |
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I believe there is a thread on that. Basically you have to post your pics on a sight like photobucket, then link to them. The thread should explain in more detail. |
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| KY Metro | Apr 2 2010, 06:20 PM Post #3 |
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Yes, there is an official thread here, but somebody should write a more detailed How To. ~Sign up for Photobucket, Imageshack, Picasa, or similar. ~They have a mechanism for uploading pictures - if bandwidth is limited, be sure they are a small size. ~The images will have a specific URL, ending in .JPG. Right click the picture and select 'Copy Image URL' ~Back on your post, set the cursor on the line you want the picture, click the 'Image' button. This prompts you for a URL, right click > 'paste'. Or, manually add [img] [/img] tags. Same thing. Hope that helps. |
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| bogs | Apr 2 2010, 06:35 PM Post #4 |
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Duct tape heals all wounds
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Indeedely doo there is a more detailed thread about that very topic, and ->here<- is where it is at There are 2 sections on Image shack in that thread, instructions for Photobucket or Tinypic would be similar. These are the preferred methods, since you get offered thumbnails code for forums, and it simplifies everything a LOT. Now, lets presume you have your own website ! The instructions are only slightly modified, but you can still do the same posting, just make sure you wrap your pic in image tags, like so: and your done. For instance, I *do* have my own site, so if I wanted to link to a pic of a car from my site (or of anything else, my tools, etc), I would simply format it like this: which would give me this: Simple, eh? Edited by bogs, Apr 2 2010, 06:40 PM.
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| IHeartGeos | Apr 3 2010, 01:16 AM Post #5 |
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Hey Nate, welcome to the forum! I also have an '89 Metro LSi that I'm working on! Here's a picture of it in it's prime: Don't let it's glossy looks fool you, it doesn't look nearly this good. The sun must have been hitting it just right I guess... |
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| Nate | Apr 5 2010, 09:44 AM Post #6 |
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That looks pretty good for an '89! If nothing else, at least we can say we have the "original" Metros. I noticed you bumpers are body colored, so are mine. Is that an Lsi thing or does that just mean our cars have been repainted and they shot over the original black plastic? I've got the day off today so I'm going to clean the shop a bit and get some pictures so I can get some advice on a few things
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| IHeartGeos | Apr 5 2010, 08:16 PM Post #7 |
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I'm pretty sure I read that the LSi model had the bumpers painted the same color as the body. It looks "sportier", apparently. Good luck with yours, I've torn into mine pretty extensively already, so I can give you pointers if you need 'em. |
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| Nate | Apr 6 2010, 10:41 AM Post #8 |
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Thanks for the offer, I'm sure I'll have some questions for you! I will probably pull my engine/trans today after I finish cleaning my shop up a bit. I've been chasing oil leaks and now I've taken so many things off in the engine compartment that I might as well just pull the entire engine/trans assembly so that I can clean everything up and verify that I've fixed all the leaks. I figure if I clean the engine/trans up then I will be able to see where any missed leaks are originating from. As it sits with all the residual old crap on it, it would be very hard to tell if I've fixed all the leaks. Plus it will give me an opportunity to put a new clutch in it if need be |
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| Nate | Apr 9 2010, 01:40 PM Post #9 |
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Well this started out simple enough and then I just kept getting deeper and deeper into the car until I eventually just decided to pull the engine/transmission out so I would have easy access to fix everything I wanted to fix.![]() The Heart of The Beast: I'm sure glad a friend of mine owns a cherry picker and engine stand and was kind enough to loan them to me! ![]() One nasty 5 speed transmission. The passenger side CV output seal looks to have been leaking for many miles. Once that oil hits the spinning axle and migrates to the flywheel it just goes everywhere! ![]() Are these bar code labels on the transmission normal or might this be a clue that it isn't original? ![]() Since I have such open access now I think I will take the time to inspect the steering system for damage and worn parts. ![]() Lots of oil leaking from around the base of the distributor. Is that O-ring the only thing that seals that end of the cam/distributor drive If so I can see why I had the leak, that O-ring doesn't look very good.![]() Nasty throttle body due to a plugged or malfunctioning PCV/Gas filter "T" pipe situation. Unless it is normal to see this much carbon and crud on the throttle body, but it sure doesn't look normal to me. The big question here is what can I use to safely clean this thing without risking any damage to the electronics? Also, the little fabric cover over the wires going into the injector looks torn but maybe this is how they all are (larger diameter cover over the rear of the injector is separate from smaller diameter cover over injector wires)?? ![]() What is the thing on the bottom rear of the intake manifold? Next picture shows it better: ![]() ![]() Leaking distributor drive O-ring makes it look like I have a leaking head gasket. My compression on all 3 cylinders was 190 dry and 210 with oil so I'm assuming my head gasket has to be in good shape?? Is it possible to get that high of compression with a bad head gasket ![]() Another view of head gasket area on distributor side. ![]() That leaking CV output seal sure made a mess of everything! The trans only had 1.25 quarts in it when I drained it I wonder what sort of internal damage has been done to the transmission from however many miles it was driven with low oil.Overall, I'm happy I decided to pull the engine/trans out because I discovered that the clutch is dead and it seems like it will be much easier to do lots of this work with everything out of the car. Although, separating the tans from the engine while the whole thing dangled by a chain was sort of a difficult chore. Good thing it is so tiny or I never could have pulled off that maneuver. Edited by Nate, Apr 9 2010, 01:59 PM.
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| Bad Bent | Apr 10 2010, 02:03 AM Post #10 |
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Facetious Educated Donkey
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You found the dreaded distributor o-ring. Easy to fix, eh. According to my '91's hood sticker that is the BVSV - Bimetal Vacuum Switching Valve. That's all I'm good for tonight, er, ah, this morning.
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| metroschultz | Apr 10 2010, 04:15 AM Post #11 |
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Please just call me; "Schultz"
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Yes, By-Metal Vacuum Switching Valve. Opens when warm. It is there to prevent the car from drawing the stored gas fumed from the canister until the car warms up. The extra fuel, those fumes provide, would make it hard to control the mixture during warm up (closed loop) The computer uses a predetermined set of maps for closed loop, and that would richen the mixture with no adjustment available. |
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| Orlando-Metro | Apr 16 2010, 05:12 AM Post #12 |
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Bumpers painted the same color as the car body ALWAYS look better. Mine are those greyish types on a red body. I'd take them off and spray them with canned spray if I could be 100% of the color match. But, I have 12 year old faded factory paint thats been out in the FLorida sun - and the chances of getting it to match with new canned spray from the manufacurer with the same color code - is next to nil. |
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| bogs | Apr 16 2010, 06:05 PM Post #13 |
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Duct tape heals all wounds
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The compression numbers sound great
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| Nate | Apr 28 2010, 10:26 PM Post #14 |
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I had to put the Metro project on hold for a few weeks and get back to making some money when I'm out in the shop instead of spending all my time tinkering on the Geo While I was in machining mode I decided to fix my wheel centers. The centers must be made of some really low quality aluminum because they were in terrible shape compared to the wheels. So I popped out the plastic center cap and threw the aluminum rings on the lathe. After I matched the angle they cleaned up pretty nice. Now I just need to run an end mill down inside the mounting screw pocket to clean those up. Then I can wire brush the rest of the "chrome" off the plastic center piece and maybe just paint those black. ![]() Before and after Edited by Nate, Apr 28 2010, 10:28 PM.
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| Jittney | Apr 28 2010, 10:35 PM Post #15 |
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Anchorage 92 XFi
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Nate, Very nice results with the lathe....I thought I was looking at a new part, until I read the print. Keep up the great work!
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Welcome to the all new Geo Metro Forum. We hope you enjoy your visit.


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There are 2 sections on Image shack in that thread, instructions for Photobucket or Tinypic would be similar. These are the preferred methods, since you get offered thumbnails code for forums, and it simplifies everything a LOT.





If so I can see why I had the leak, that O-ring doesn't look very good.





I wonder what sort of internal damage has been done to the transmission from however many miles it was driven with low oil.

7:12 PM Jul 10