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| Rusty Cylinder | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Apr 25 2010, 07:29 PM (4,463 Views) | |
| Jittney | Apr 25 2010, 07:29 PM Post #1 |
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Anchorage 92 XFi
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A picture is worth a thousand words. 93 1.0 parts car.... is this part salvageable?
Edited by Jittney, Jun 15 2010, 12:49 AM.
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| Johnny Mullet | Apr 25 2010, 07:33 PM Post #2 |
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Fear the Mullet
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I would attempt to hone that cylinder. It should clean up. |
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| Jittney | Apr 25 2010, 07:35 PM Post #3 |
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Anchorage 92 XFi
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Thanks, JM. Before I hone it, any recommendations for safely removing some of the rust? |
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| Coche Blanco | Apr 25 2010, 07:37 PM Post #4 |
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Troll Certified
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Agree, if all else fails, you could probably oversize it... |
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| Rooy | Apr 25 2010, 07:37 PM Post #5 |
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Hard to tell how far the rust has eaten into it. Take something abrasive and knock the rust off and see how bad the pitting is. Anything other than very minor pitting should be bored. Wire brush, maybe followed by some steel wool should take care of the rust. Edited by Rooy, Apr 25 2010, 07:39 PM.
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| Jittney | Apr 25 2010, 07:44 PM Post #6 |
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Anchorage 92 XFi
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The block is still in the engine bay. Would it make any difference to attempt to clean it up as it's mounted, or would I be risking more costly repairs by not taking it out and tanking it? btw... the picture is its own link. Edited by Jittney, Apr 25 2010, 07:45 PM.
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| Johnny Mullet | Apr 25 2010, 07:47 PM Post #7 |
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Fear the Mullet
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It's easier to disassemble and then clean the needed parts. Are you buying this engine? |
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| Rooy | Apr 25 2010, 07:49 PM Post #8 |
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No problem cleaning it in situ. The pistons are going to have to come out at the very least to hone it and fit new rings. You just need to find out how bad the rust has pitted it. |
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| Jittney | Apr 25 2010, 07:50 PM Post #9 |
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Anchorage 92 XFi
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LOL...OK, OK, I'll pull it... it came in the 93 I got this week. It's my learning project. |
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| Jittney | May 9 2010, 08:28 PM Post #10 |
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Anchorage 92 XFi
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OK, it's pulled. Now what? Thanks to my sons for lugging it from the car to the deck.
Edited by Jittney, Jun 22 2010, 01:08 AM.
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| Johnny Mullet | May 9 2010, 08:45 PM Post #11 |
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Fear the Mullet
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Separate the engine from the trans first. |
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| Memphis metro | May 9 2010, 08:47 PM Post #12 |
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That girl is off the chain! |
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| Bad Bent | May 9 2010, 09:53 PM Post #13 |
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Facetious Educated Donkey
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Jittney, that is an awesome engine "stand"!!
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| Cobb | May 9 2010, 10:03 PM Post #14 |
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BANNED
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If its heavily pitted you will need to dry sleeve it. Make sure to get some wood and use that on the bottom of the piston or rod to bang it out. |
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| Murf 59 | May 10 2010, 02:38 AM Post #15 |
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Why sleeve it. Even if its really pitted bad. A bore of .040 will take care of a pretty badly pitted bore. I priced sleeving my G10 for the really big piston set. It was $120 for each cly. + labor. For that kind of money you could build a really nice little 40 over G10. Of coarse the pistons in mine are .120 over From 74mm stock to 77mm |
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7:38 PM Jul 10