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| Rusty Cylinder | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Apr 25 2010, 07:29 PM (4,469 Views) | |
| bogs | May 10 2010, 09:10 AM Post #16 |
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Duct tape heals all wounds
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Sleeving vs. boring. You and I would most likely bore. I believe boring is not beyond Jitts' capability vs. her determination for education. Sleeving as you point out is likely to be more expensive, but may vary greatly based on location. In the end, I'd say take a look at both and determine what is more likely to be within your means/abilities. |
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| Jittney | May 10 2010, 09:28 PM Post #17 |
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Anchorage 92 XFi
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OK, I separated the engine and trans. What next?![]() Edited by Jittney, Jun 15 2010, 01:02 AM.
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| Johnny Mullet | May 10 2010, 09:51 PM Post #18 |
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Fear the Mullet
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http://geometroforum.com/topic/2335235/1/ |
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| Jittney | May 10 2010, 09:55 PM Post #19 |
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Anchorage 92 XFi
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Thanks, JM..... and, yes, I know about that thread... but to get to the starting point of that thread, I have other things in the way, like the alternator, engine mount, and the plastic cover on the end. Are there things I have to mark before taking any of them off? |
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| Memphis metro | May 10 2010, 10:15 PM Post #20 |
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Well some take a break, some take a break, and some on the job take a teamster break. And some I supose take a break. Its all up to you gurl!
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| Murf 59 | May 11 2010, 02:51 AM Post #21 |
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| Murf 59 | May 11 2010, 02:54 AM Post #22 |
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Take a min and put a mark on the fly wheel so you can get it back in the correct place. Remove the clutch and fly wheel. Then the pan. And start taking apart the lower end. One thing that can help a great deal. Keep your hard ware from each section seperate from each other. That way when you go back together. You know you have the exact right set of bolts. |
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| Memphis metro | May 11 2010, 06:54 AM Post #23 |
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Look at those rod caps before you take them off, you might scribe you a mark on them as well. You want to put them back in the same place and position as you see them now. |
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| Jittney | May 15 2010, 04:27 PM Post #24 |
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Anchorage 92 XFi
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OK, what's next? I marked the flywheel and took it down to this point. MM.... parts are all marked (down to each bolt) and stored in labeled ziplock bags. ![]() Edited for Mr. Murf..... the picture is its own link... just click on the thumbnail picture and it'll load up a larger one. Thanks MM. Edited by Jittney, May 15 2010, 04:55 PM.
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| Murf 59 | May 15 2010, 04:48 PM Post #25 |
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Marking the flywheel was just so you can get it back on the exact way it came off. Not so much important in these later model cars. I am used to working on stuff much older. Sorry I am having a hard time seeing the thumb nail pics. remove the oil pump housing and rear seal housing first. From here it looks like its time to remove the connecting rod caps. They should be a 12mm. Just like was stated above, mark them. These MUST go back exactly where they came off. Pull the nuts, and with a little side to side pressure pull the caps off. Again keep them in order and notice the direction the arrow is pointing. Mine had an arrow. Your may not. You may have to slowly rotate the crank to get one or more out of the block. Carefull. It is a finger pinch point. And it is easiest to remove them when they are in line with the bore. Or straight up and down. Once all three caps are off, its time to remove the pistons. Same thing for the removal. Straight up and down. A soft hammer handle is the best to use. Not the impact end. Use the end you hang onto. And push the piston and rod out of the bore, gently. Once you do, Check the bearings, and remate the caps with the correct rod/piston comb. Next do the same with the main bearing caps. Just like above, mark them and keep them in order. Once they are removed Very carefully lift the crank out. On one of the middle journals will be a set of thrust bearings. There will be two. They will be shaped like a U, with small tabs and oiling grooves in them. Put these with your parts. Check your crank for line's or grooves in the bearing surface. And a side note. I was taught to never lay a crank shaft down. Be very carefull with your crank. It is a very precise part. I stand mine next to a bench leg and wire tie it up so it can not fall down. I know some folks will argue with this. But it is just how I was taught. Keep your main bearings in matched pairs. They can be layed down. But with real care. You don't want to throw it out of whack. Edited by Murf 59, May 15 2010, 05:06 PM.
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| Murf 59 | May 15 2010, 04:51 PM Post #26 |
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Wow. I just noticed where you are from. I have some family in S. E. Alaska. And my partner fromm work is on a cruise headed your way even as I type this. Cousin John is in Kake. He runs the shipping dock there. He logged out of Rowan Bay for many years. On the island of ( My spelling sucks but I will spell it how it sounds) Ku E You. Across the Chattum straight from Barrenoff isl A slightly larger pic would help my old eyes. LOL I got the PM. Silly me. I was tempted to get my glasses out. Yeah it looks like you are almost there. Edited by Murf 59, May 15 2010, 04:56 PM.
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| Murf 59 | May 15 2010, 05:07 PM Post #27 |
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Must go be will be back and check on this before quitting time. |
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| bogs | May 15 2010, 06:00 PM Post #28 |
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Duct tape heals all wounds
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MM, click on the picture, it will open it full size
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| Johnny Mullet | May 15 2010, 08:48 PM Post #29 |
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Fear the Mullet
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Remove the connecting rod caps like MM stated and push the pistons out marking them and the bearings. After that, you can pull a main bearing cap (larger ones) to inspect those bearings. Next step will be honing the cylinders. |
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| Jittney | May 15 2010, 10:29 PM Post #30 |
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Anchorage 92 XFi
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I am stuck. I cannot loosen this bolt. Found out in the end that this has to come out before I can remove the crank. Tried PB blaster, heat, more leverage. No luck. The pistons are out. :-) Can remove all caps for main bearings. Put #4 back on to try to get this bolt out.
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break, some take a
break, and some on the job take a teamster break. And some I supose take a
break. Its all up to you gurl!


7:39 PM Jul 10