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Rusty Cylinder
Topic Started: Apr 25 2010, 07:29 PM (4,468 Views)
Memphis metro


Time for you to invest in a impact wrench girlie!
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Jittney
Anchorage 92 XFi

...another round of PB blaster, rounded up a SnapOn breaker bar...no luck...added daughter's weight to the mix....we braced against the walls... no luck.... added heat....YES... it is free. Girls rule. :-)
Will see about tanking the block overnight and post pictures of cylinders before honing.


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Woodie
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Heat weakens the LockTite the factory put on there. You should have loosened this bolt before doing anything else, while the engine was still in the car. Fat lot of good that advice does you now, but you'll know next time.
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Murf 59
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Woodie is right. Heat works good on Loctite. And sorry we failed to tell you to remove that one first. They use alot of glue to make sure that one does not work its self out.
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Jittney
Anchorage 92 XFi

The head was soaked in full strength Simple Green overnight. The top was cleaned up some with a plastic dish scraper. The cylinders were wiped out with a microfiber cloth. The outside was scrubbed with plastic brushes, but is still not clean, so I may try some other cleaner overnight.
The pistons and bearings were soaked in Marvel Mystery Oil overnight, drained, and wiped dry with paper towel.
MM...The crank is hanging vertically from a ceiling bicycle hook by heavy duty zipties.
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Murf 59
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How does the rest of the bore look? And MM oil is really good stuff. From here all the mating surface's need to get dressed up and ready to rebuild. Once its cleaned. And remember to tap (chase) the threads in the block. You can get away with only the head and mains. I do them all. Its a pain in the back side, but produce's good results. It remove's all the goo and crap and old loctite in the holes. Once they have been tapped. Use compressed air to get the last of the stuff you just broke loose in the holes. Wear eye protection. And clothes that can get funky. LOL The mating surfaces must be perfectly clean. Once the old gasket and junk is removed. Use Brakekleen or Chemtool to remove the last of the oil residue just before you assy.
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Murf 59
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Your bore should clean up just fine with a ball hone. I think its a 3" one. Replace all the bearings. Mains and rods. See the lines in the mains on the left in the pic? It ate something. Same with the rods. One thing extra I do for my engines. I run a bottle brush through all my oil galleys. I got them from HF. Then again with the air to finish.
Can you post a close up pic of your main and rod journals? And I run a bottle brush threw those holes too. Again with the air. Cleanly ness is good for an engine rebuild. :thumb
Edited by Murf 59, May 16 2010, 05:32 PM.
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Jittney
Anchorage 92 XFi

MM... is this what you wanted to see?
Sorry, no air compressor here, but I will be sure to clean things well.
Alas, no HF here, either.
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Edited by Jittney, May 16 2010, 06:38 PM.
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Murf 59
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Nice shot. Those are the little holes that get the bottle brush. No the ones you need to shoot are on the crank shaft its self. And those are good shots. I am outta here. I will be back Tues PM shift
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Memphis metro


Inspect those pistons skirts good missy for cracks.
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Jittney
Anchorage 92 XFi

pics for JM and MM. Cylinders and pistons soaking in diesel fuel overnight. Checking parts dino for bearings, rings, and gaskets.
Bottom View: Thrust Bearing wear marks under #3 main: Crank pics go up vertically
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edited thumbnails as links.... sorry about that
Edited by Jittney, May 18 2010, 10:45 PM.
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bogs
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Duct tape heals all wounds

That crack (?) on pic 3 top go all the way through?
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metroschultz
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Please just call me; "Schultz"

I don't think that is a crack Bogs.
It looks like a casting mark.
Still needs checked though.
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slander
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Tech Certified

If that was a crack, that's in a peculiar spot on the webbing for a crack.
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Murf 59
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The shots of the crank. When I click on them. They are still thumb nail pics. Did you run your finger nail over the bearing surface on the crank yet? They can find things we can't see.
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