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Rusty Cylinder
Topic Started: Apr 25 2010, 07:29 PM (4,466 Views)
Jittney
Anchorage 92 XFi

I guess I was so intent on the rust in the cylinders, I didn't notice the pitting in the head gasket surface until tonight when the block was temporarily dry. I wonder if this is from the crystals seen in the first picture of this post (thought that was dried coolant) I've only been using a nylon brush or scraper on the block. I hardly dare ask if the block still usable. But, here goes..... is it fixable or usable?
Posted Image
Edited by Jittney, May 24 2010, 08:57 AM.
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wikityler
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Some say...

That looks shallow enough to be cleaned up by resurfacing.
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Jittney
Anchorage 92 XFi

The block is at the machine shop. Yes, on a bike... with it bagged and judiciously fastened to the outside of the backpack. Two of the machinists looked at the surface and agreed that it would be fixable to the point that the head gasket would work, but not to the point that all the pitting would be completely gone. (Will decking the block require any adjustments in reassembly? Yes, I have Felpro gaskets, MM) Since they were busy and it would take a couple days to get to it, I roped a daughter into spending some quality time with me cleaning the pistons (per MM's instructions) and putting new Hasting's rings on. I did not know she likes the smell of diesel fuel.
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crankcase


Ok, I'm a self confessed non-expert and doer of bone headed deeds, but I argue that the block was fine as it appeared in the last picture.
The pitting was in an area that did not experience the pressure or heat of combustion. It was in an area that was past the coolant bath.
The pitting did not go across the entire gasket mating surface. It does not 'SEEM' that heating and cooling cycles would cause excessive
stress that might lead to a crack.
:popcorn


Nice rebuild job Jittney and nice documentation. :thumb
Edited by crankcase, May 25 2010, 12:41 AM.
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Jittney
Anchorage 92 XFi

Posted ImagePosted ImagePosted ImagePosted Image
The block was done the next day...almost a month ago...and sat in the bag...waiting through a building project. Mr. Murf's next instructions were to clean the block threads and orifices. I opened my new tap/die set and read the instructions, and started with cleaning up the crankshaft bolts and moved to the block threads. My 21 year old daughter dropped in, picked up the tap, and started chasing threads. I did not know she knew how to do it. She pointed out that I should have compressed air to clean out the block holes. I said I was using Qtips and the vacuum cleaner. She laughed. The 19 year old daughter just started using the tap/die today.
I have not been able to break free the alan-head plugs in the block to clean out those passage ways. I put Liquid Wrench on them and moved on to the ziplock bag with this item and its bolts (yes, MM, they're marked). Cleaning this up I saw the 5 screws and deduced it could come apart, too. Aha...I thought I was done taking things apart. I checked JM's lower end rebuild but didn't see this listed. So, I got out the manual and chased this down to being the oil pump. I'm to inspect the rotors for tolerances/clearances, but I only got one screw loose and the second one stripped out. I have a new, unused easy-out which will be another learning experience.
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metroschultz
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Please just call me; "Schultz"

The oil pump cover screws are put in with "Loctite" from the factory.
They are a royal PITA to remove.
You will be buying an "Impact Driver" to assist you in this process.
Once you get it apart you will need to replace the stripped screws. (there will be more ;) )
Personally, if I suspect the oil pump is worn or not doing it's job, I replace it.
It's pricey, but worth the peace of mind.
Of the few I've taken apart, I have drilled the tops off the offending screws then after removing the cover and rotors and seal, a little heat with some "Vise Grips" does the job for me.
Have fun,
I like your projects.
TTFN
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bogs
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Duct tape heals all wounds

Very fun stuff. Getting the impact driver will help tremendously, usually its my 'first step' tool for starting almost any bolt, just in case ;)
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Murf 59
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+1 to what Shultz and Bogs said. Impact drivers are really handy tools. When you smack he(( of of it to remove the screws, Don't hit your hand. And a bigger hammer helps. That way you don't have to wind up so hard.
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greggholmes


easy outs are garbage don't use them. do what metroschultz said about removing the cover.
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Jittney
Anchorage 92 XFi

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I picked up the impact tool and between a small propane flame directly on the screw and hammering, I got it done. I cleaned all the parts, checked the tolerances (book says .03mm and it was under .02mm...maybe .01mm) So I put it back together per the manual and used a bit of loctite (per MM)(um... used the red kind), replaced the seal, and it's done. Mystery solved as to what it looks like in there. On to the next piece to prep. :)
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starscream5000
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Got 70 MPG?

Save yourself grief later on down the road and put a thin layer of RTV sealant on the outside edge of that oil seal. It will last longer than you will be driving the car for (assuming that you replace the PCV valve reguarly) :thumb
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Jittney
Anchorage 92 XFi

MM....crank clearance checked (see below) and oil pump gears had no wear lines....thanks!
Starscream500....thanks for the RTV tip!
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I asked my daughter to check the oil holes on the crankshaft and she wondered where a slanted one went.....and with handy-dandy zipties discovered that mains 1,2 &4 had holes directly through....and those mains were diagonally connected to the adjacent piston spot....but #3 had no holes...but has thrust washers. The light dawns. We shared putting in new main bearings, plastigage on all 4 mains, torqued to 40f/p, and matched results (.0015in).
We did not put any oil or grease on the crank, but we didn't spin it either.
Plastigage is removed.
What's next?
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Johnny Mullet
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Fear the Mullet

Assembly lube is recommended to be coating the bearings and journal surfaces. Get on chat :)
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Murf 59
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Your Rockin on this project!
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Jittney
Anchorage 92 XFi

The reassembly is underway. :)
MM...I have no doubt you could do all I've done so far in one afternoon. ^o)
JM...I got the assembly lube and redid the main bearings and lubed the journals....and added the 'sides' (well, when you're standing in front of the block, the rear seal and the front seal/oil pump feel like sides).
The daughter was picking up parts and there was a misunderstanding between her and the parts man...and I ended up with just the front seal....no gasket. So, I went back and got the whole Fel-Pro crankshaft front seal set, and found it contained 2 gaskets and 3 orings along with a seal and a small tube of black RTV. (imagine that, starscream500) I found uses for everything except the spare gasket (one hole is different) and one oring. Rats!
I looked over the oil pump and the Fel-Pro set list a number of times and am stumped. All 3 orings were different sizes. One matches and fits the oil level tube seal. One matches and fits the oil pickup tube seal. The last one is slightly larger than the pickup tube seal. I see no place to put it. I tried FelPro's site and other auto parts' sites, but am stumped. Perhaps a different oil pump needs this oring?
The water pump is not back on the block. I would think it would be best to replace it, no? Or can I rebuild it? The car has 135,000 miles on it.
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