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| Wont Start; No Fire at coil | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Jun 1 2010, 02:36 PM (3,240 Views) | |
| djdiamond | Jun 1 2010, 02:36 PM Post #1 |
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I have a 95 metro 1.3 5spd that wont crank or get fire at the coil wire. I replaced coils and modules and it has new plug wires. I also unhooked batt to reset after the change. What else could be preventing it from cranking? My water pump has been leaking but I have kept water in it constantly. The last time it ran i drove about 15 mi and it started to run hot. Does this tie in with my starting problem? |
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| Memphis metro | Jun 1 2010, 02:52 PM Post #2 |
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No your cooling problem should not keep it from starting considering you did not overheat to destruction. You said replaced coils. Your car have more than one coil? Have you checked all fuses and checked for voltage to the primary terminal of the coil, considering you only have one coil mounted on the firewall? Welcome to geometroforum. . Edited by Memphis metro, Jun 1 2010, 03:02 PM.
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| mcmancuso | Jun 1 2010, 02:54 PM Post #3 |
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Have you checked to see if the coil itself is getting current from the car? By not starting, do you mean that it doesn't do anything when you turn the key, or just not starting but the engine is spinning via the starter? be specific about the details of what it is doing when you try to start it. Also, I'd do a compression test to make sure it getting hot didn't damage anything in the cylinders. Check the thermostat, if you had coolant in the car and it was still overheating a stuck closed thermo may be to blame. I wouldn't think the overheating has an effect on the not starting issue but it might. |
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| djdiamond | Jun 1 2010, 03:04 PM Post #4 |
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No typo sorry one coil of course. Ive checked all fuses look good. Tried switching relays to c if that was it. I dont have a meter but can get one. It trys to start over and over again turnin over. but like i said it has new distributor, wires, and rotor button. but i think the problem is b4 that w no fire at the coil? |
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| Memphis metro | Jun 1 2010, 03:08 PM Post #5 |
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Later model metros do have more than one coil but I was thinking your 95 should only have one. There is a fuse panel under the dash and one under the hood. I assume you checked both. Check to see if you have power to that positive terminal on the coil. |
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| djdiamond | Jun 1 2010, 03:25 PM Post #6 |
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yes i checked both. I really appreciate u guys speedy responses and help. Do i have to have a meter to chk the pos terminal or can i simply pull the wire to check for spark? |
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| Memphis metro | Jun 1 2010, 03:29 PM Post #7 |
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A test light or voltmeter would be what you would want to use. You might pop a fuse or worse than that any other way. |
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| djdiamond | Jun 1 2010, 03:42 PM Post #8 |
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ok. my buddy has one and ill try to chk today. I dont know if this relates but i will also chk the cam while i try to start to c if i have any timing issues as well. |
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| Johnny Mullet | Jun 1 2010, 07:44 PM Post #9 |
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Fear the Mullet
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I would check the timing belt first. Also that car gets a signal from the crank sensor to get spark. A scan of the Check Engine Light would reveal this. |
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| crankcase | Jun 1 2010, 08:00 PM Post #10 |
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Please give more details. Did you put the parts in before the problem or after the problem, or was it some before and some after? Did yo put a new distributor or distributor cap on? What module did you replace? Open the "add oil to the motor" cap and look in with a flash light as a helper cranks it. Do you see anything moving in there (check for broken timing belt)? |
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| djdiamond | Jun 1 2010, 11:41 PM Post #11 |
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I replaced distributor and wires in a tune up a month or so ago. I didnt change the coil until i saw the problem was no fire. The module I changed is the one on the firewall right beside the coil. Small black. I will know more tomorrow when i check all the grounds, timing belt, and put a meter to the pos. on the coil. I will also check the crank sensor as well. thanks. |
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| djdiamond | Jun 2 2010, 06:21 PM Post #12 |
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ok man so i checked all grounds and put a light goin into coil was good. but coming out (where wire goes) not. So i checked the distributor and cap and found what looks like copper wire unwound inside cap from distributor. Obviously this is a problem, but what causes this and can that backflow and mess up my coil? And also is this my main spark problem? |
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| crankcase | Jun 2 2010, 08:10 PM Post #13 |
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It sounds like the cam shaft sensor broke up on you. I don't know why it happens, probably just the age. I don't think it would mess up the coil, but it will cause your main spark to be absent. As I understand it, it sends a signal to the low side of the coil to ground the 12 volts you measured. This causes a high voltage discharge. If you pull the distributor and take it apart, the sensor is inside. I've never done this before, but it should be correct.
Edited by crankcase, Jun 3 2010, 01:11 AM.
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| crankcase | Jun 2 2010, 08:19 PM Post #14 |
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I looked in the book (if all esle fails ).It is as I stated in post #13 above. The crank angle sensor goes to the short harness that comes out of the distributor the has a connector at its end. Edited by crankcase, Jun 3 2010, 01:12 AM.
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| djdiamond | Jun 2 2010, 11:57 PM Post #15 |
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Yeah I appreciate it man. I didnt know the sensor was inside the distributor like that but it was unraveled bad. Im gonna get me another distributor tommorrow and hopefully will be back on the road. Also change out thermostat and water pump to fix that issue as well. Yall have been alot of help and I will touch base tomorrow after I change out the parts. I knew they made those manuals for something haha! Edited by djdiamond, Jun 3 2010, 12:01 AM.
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