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Wont Start; No Fire at coil
Topic Started: Jun 1 2010, 02:36 PM (3,245 Views)
mcmancuso
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I thought 95 and later were OBDII but if this is in fact an OBDI system, when you put the fuse in and turn the key to on, it should give a series of blinks, like blink...blink,blink.... that's code 12 (all clear) , if there's more than one code they will go in order, then repeat.
code list is here
http://geometroforum.com/topic/638390/1/
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crankcase


95 is OBDI.

Make sure plug wires got hooked up correctly.
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bogs
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Duct tape heals all wounds

Actually 95 could go either way was my understanding, it was a mutt car year.
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djdiamond
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[ *  * ]
all plugs are fire same. Fuel Filter is clean. couldnt find another dist. but i dont think thats it neway. drove 35 mi and was popping and missing real bad so when i got there i chkd and its poppin back thru intake and had a burndt spot on air filter right at injector. Any chance when the dist. went bad it affected the injector. can only git up to bout 50-60 m/hr and its hard to get there. seems to be worse thru acceleration and higher rpms.
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crankcase


Bogs, don't know. My 95 is an OBDI and my factory book does not say anyting
about OBDII that I could find in a quick look. I've never heard about OBDIIs in a 95,
intresting question though. The 95 was kind of an odd ball year model though for sure.

Djdiamond, kind of sounds like a timing problem?
I would double check everything that was disconnected
in the change out.

I wonder if the ditributor could be bad/cracked?
Try idleing it at night where it is dark and
observe under the hood for any signs arcing.

Also, check for any broken, damaged, or disconnected
vacuum lines.
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djdiamond
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just checkd and no arcs i can c and i lookd real gud. everything is connected so tomorrow ill chk the timin i got a diagram print out.
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crankcase


Yea, if it were me, I would check one more time for good measure that the spark plug wires were in correct order from plugs to distributor. But then again, I have good reason not to trust myself. With that going on, it makes it kind of hard to practice the do unto others principle...
Edited by crankcase, Jun 9 2010, 12:05 AM.
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djdiamond
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yea the wires are on and in order. I was thinkin bout the milage on that timin belt and the fact i was trying over and over to start when the dist was bad and that tends to be when the belt is more vulnerable to jump. Hopefully thats all it is bc a belt is only 39.99 and a injector or dist. is alot higher.
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djdiamond
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need lil help guys. i am checking timing on my car and the belt looks good. where do i start as far as getting top dead center and seein if its outa time. I feel like this is the cause of my problems as i stated in my last post.
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bennie442


Take a look at the timing belt how-to that can be found in the pinned topic of "FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS" here in the Metro tech section.
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crankcase


Also, you can check here starting at about post#6
http://geometroforum.com/topic/3231936/1/#new
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Bad Bent
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Facetious Educated Donkey

So, yes, if you are getting backfire through the Throttle Body then an intake valve(s) is open allowing the boom to go the wrong way. :'(

Be sure to check the timing belt tensioner and the underpulley bolts for tightness. It is also possible the keyway is broken on the driveshaft allowing the lower timing mark gear to "float."

Your ignition timing is accurately set with a timing light. Factory timing is 5o BTDC but 8 is recommended. If you have a vacuum advance Distributor the hoses need to be plugged and the "test connector" between the firewall and drivers side strut tower needs to have the pins shorted.

Posted Image
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djdiamond
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with the pulley on the cranks mark on 0 on the measure on timing cover. #1 piston was at top and dist. on #1 as well. timing marks are in line according to diagram i have. (straight up) belt looks good and tight. so its not a timing problem can a bad injector cause these problems? Or any other ideas? o2 sensor or egr? dont know the check engine light aint on so dk.
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crankcase


Man, I'd go back to the basics. It was running fine, but then died. You found bad cam sensor and replaced the distributor and now it runs again, but poorly.

Check for things that might have been disconnected while you were testing before you knew it was the cam sensor. Take off the air filter holder for good access and look for broken or disconnected hoses.

I've heard of a bad coil causing this, do you have a spare you can swap in? Does the coil get hot, are the discharges nice and blue. If so, it could still be bad, see if the Zone etc. can test it for you. Do you know someone with a Metro that would let you borrow theirs for a few minutes?

Are you using the original cap or one that came with the new distributor? If you have an extra, try changing it out. Examine all terminals in the distributor, plug wire ends and coil and coil wire ends to see if you see signs of arcing or discoloration.

There are a number of things that can cause your problem, but I would stick closely to the ones that are associated with what was recently done to the car. I'd suggest doing a good check of simple things before going on. Since you are pretty sure it's not a timing issue, next I'd check items in the coil circuit, doing the basic/easy stuff first.





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djdiamond
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[ *  * ]
i dont know man. i double checked all hoses and grounds and fuses related when i thought it was coil and even tried another coil. pulled intake of and cranked it and throttle body intake kinda hissing/sucking sound. burnt spot on filter rite over injector and burnt on the piece connect to injector on intake. Bad injector or even the throttle body?? Any chance when sensor in dist went bad it affected any of this?? Im befundled fellas. seems to be progressively getting worse and plugs are startin to look charred.
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