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Wont Start; No Fire at coil
Topic Started: Jun 1 2010, 02:36 PM (3,244 Views)
blomdrop
Fresh Fish
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possible fuel injector resistor bad, or since the distributor shorted out could have effected the ECM!
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crankcase


Just hang in there. You need to try the checks again, even though you did them once before you got it running, you need to do them over imho. Often times when you get a situation like this, you have over looked something. It is something you think it is not.

If the bad cam sensor did mess something up, it could be the computer, but I doubt it (any signal from a good or bad cam sensor would be very small).
A more likely posibility would be something past the computer in the coil circuit (coil, igniter, or connections to these).

The computer/ECM sends a signal to the igniter which is connected to the negative side of the coil's low voltage windingsl. When this signal is interrupted, the magnetic field that had built up around the low voltage windings of the coil collapses. This collapse is what makes a high voltage potential appear across the output of the coil (high voltage side = output of coil). An oscilloscope is an ideal piece of test equipment to check this chain of events.

Can you try and describe the symptoms in more detail and when it happens?
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djdiamond
New Member
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when it pops it jumps real bad depending on how much im acceleratin. when rpms get higher its worse causing me too shift alot faster than normal. no tach but id say round 2-2.5. got the egr off now cleanin out luks bad n smoked. i wonder if the burnt in intake is the problem or a reprecussion.
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djdiamond
New Member
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i took a break to think and went back over our posts and i forgot bout tha engine codes. put n a fuse and the check engine light flashed twice then three times i understand 23 and is for iat sensor? what is this and is this my problem?
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StevieC
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Intake air temperature. Attached to the rear side of the intake I believe... maybe the wires are disconnected? Temperature of air affects fuel mixture so yes it could be causing your problem. Check that it's connected! :)
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Bad Bent
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Facetious Educated Donkey

IAT is the blue/green square connector in this picture. In the air cleaner it's the brass thingy.

Posted Image
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CityConnection
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Sir, yes sir!

Did I miss it, or have you already done a compression test? Something is either keeping an intake valve open or leaving an exhaust valve shut.

Are you sure the air filter is burnt, or did it get a cough of oil? PCV valves can cause all sorts of driveability issues.
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djdiamond
New Member
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ill chk the iat connection. Just had filter holder off and egr off and cleaned. could that set off this code. ill let it run awhile then chk again. Not done a comp test yet. is better to check thru plug holes or off radiator?? and my water pump seal leaking and goin bad will this throw off the radiator test?
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StevieC
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The compression test must be done via the spark plug holes. What radiator test are we talking about here?

Compression test = tests each cylinder's ability to sustain compression. There is a topic somewhere here explaining just how to do it.
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CityConnection
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Sir, yes sir!

A radiator test (cooling system pressure test) is different than a compression test. Like said above, the compression test is done using a compression tester and threading the tester into the spark plug hole.

I can't find the link... I thought it was pinned at the top of the forum.

A radiator test isn't necessary because you already know there is a problem in the cooling system.
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djdiamond
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ok ill git a tester and check the nessecary amount needed but what needs to be dun bout the engine code for IAT sensor? I noticed earlier a lil bit of gas sits inside of intake and never should. So its getting too much fuel and burning rich y it boggs down?? I tried shootin a lil startin fluid in the intake while a friend reved up and it bogged down. THis problem relates to that sensor or no?
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Bad Bent
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Facetious Educated Donkey

Here is the how to on the Compression Test.

Does this engine actually backfire? When it runs it would make loud pops. OR is the burn the result of an over heated fuel injector, the black dome thingy and its wires or is it oil/PCV as CityConnection suggests?

I can also imagine the lower crankshaft gear's key-way coming loose and the timing would be bad, the distributor cap is loose/cracked or the rotor not in all the way. :dunno
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djdiamond
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not a loud backfire kinda flutterin as i accelerate. could possibly b frum hot injector and engine is extremely hot after short distances. ill double check dist and button.
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crankcase


Did you set the timing after the new dist. install?
You kind of have to mess up the timing to do a dist. swap.
If the timing is way off it can cause the symptoms you speak of.

The code you got was probably due to the plug not being "snaped in"
You have to give it a good push and will hear a click when it locks in.
Clear the code by disconnecting the battery for 1/2 and hour, and then
put it back and see if the code comes back.
Edited by crankcase, Jun 11 2010, 08:19 PM.
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djdiamond
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yeah the new dist was in place when i checked timing. I checked tdc and rotor button alignment as well. i pulled plugg out and cleaned out a lil to assure good connection. Ill reset and c.
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