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Wont Start; No Fire at coil
Topic Started: Jun 1 2010, 02:36 PM (3,243 Views)
djdiamond
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reset now is sayin 1...2 no fault but same problem still exists. Gonna do a comp test tomorrow.
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mwebb
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FOG

intake vacuum
intake vacuum
intake vacuum

Teed into the MAP sensor vacuum line before the restriction orifice
must be 20" at hot idle
more important , the needle must have zero as in zero flutter

if there is any flutter
you have a valve sealing problem and that may not show up on a compression test

it WILL show up on a leak down test
=================================
IF you need to remove the cyl head
read this first http://www.herningg.com/singh/Engine%20Running%20Tests%20Analysis.pdf

Edited by mwebb, Jun 11 2010, 11:42 PM.
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djdiamond
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Looking closer at each plug wires fire and number one fires good then stops n start. I'm thinking pickup or this dist is bad too.
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CityConnection
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Sir, yes sir!

This may sound very basic, but...

Have you verified firing order? I just did cap and rotor on my 3cyl and even though I put the new cap next to the old one and moved the wires one at a time I still messed it up.

I swear I'd screw up the firing order on a single cylinder engine. :banghead
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djdiamond
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haha yeah man ive double and triple checked the basics til im sik. engine light reading 23 31 32 which is pressure sensor. but that #1 wire frum dist fire is inconsistent. when i pull other wires off effects engines run but #1 dont. also when i pull these wires off one at a time i hear the sound like the one from end of wire poppin inside dist or cap but no visual arcin. So another faulty dist since i bought used, bad pick up, or cap. Gonna start w cap since it was on there when first dist went bad and its the cheapest start.
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Bad Bent
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Facetious Educated Donkey

Well, I know it has new plug wires but could the plug wire be bad? :dunno

Pressure Sensor Circuit is a MAP function and likely gets you back to mwebb's post #62.
It could be a clogged or leaking MAP vacuum hose.
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dangbird
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I recommend the 5 bucks I spent to replace all Vacuum lines. Spend the 20 bucks and get the vacuum tester while there. Did this per recommendations and found many leaks.
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Woodie
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Are you saying you have three error codes? You forgot to connect the sensor ground, no way three different sensors went bad overnight. Also, the entire intake manifold, throttle body, and distributor should have stayed with the car. Only change the block and head. Sensors and inputs changed from year to year, California or Federal, manual or automatic. You might just have the wrong distributor.
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metroschultz
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Please just call me; "Schultz"

djdiamond
Jun 12 2010, 04:15 PM
(1)haha yeah man ive double and triple checked the basics til im sik.
(2)engine light reading 23 31 32 which is pressure sensor.
(3)but that #1 wire frum dist fire is inconsistent. when i pull other wires off effects engines run but #1 dont.
(4)also when i pull these wires off one at a time i hear the sound like the one from end of wire poppin inside dist or cap but no visual arcin.
(5)So another faulty dist since i bought used, bad pick up, or cap.
(6)Gonna start w cap since it was on there when first dist went bad and its the cheapest start.
1- Yeah, we all know how you feel. But, you can not ever double check enough, and sometimes you just need another set of eyes to see what you can't.

2- Code 31 &32 are for the Map sensor, 23 is the IAT. They all ground behind the throttle body on the intake. Make sure that ground is clean. Take it apart and clean it anyway. CYA.

3- #1 cylinder is not producing power. Bad wire, or Bad distributor cap, ( !BAD! bad boy, yes you did that on the carpet, !BAD!) or low compression. Buy a cap and wires, you said they are original. If you do not want to spend money yet, do a compression test. That eliminates the low compression issue. (or confirms it)

4- You are hearing the spark jump inside the boot, if it is dark out, you will see it.

5- Distributor is probably fine. The other 2 cylinders are firing well. The cap could be at fault, see #3.

6- It is a cheap part. But the wires could also be at fault. Specifically the wire to #1 cylinder.

Have fun, and happy hunting.
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mcmancuso
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I don't know if you bought your timing belt or not, but they're less than $20 at advance autoparts
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djdiamond
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gonna git me a new cap tomorrow to be sure bc that cap was on when the first dist went bad. Next ill do as u say on a thorough check of the map sensor and ground wires behind. Someone mentioned maybe the wrong dist? would the wrong one fit? looks just like the one i had and pulled off a 95 hatch back. would dist frum a 3 cl to a 4cyl be diff. that car may have been a 3. I appreciate u guys help and patience thru this. I have checked the timin belt and looks like my uncle had it changed routine. tight and no teeth missing and dont look worn. I thought odd of all 3 faults at same time and wondered if that pick up gon bad could have changed or fried things? Ill let u know what i find tomorrow.
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Woodie
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Distributor from one year to another can be different even though the engine is identical in every other way. You need your original distributor.
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djdiamond
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sorry fellas was outta town cpl days. tried a diff cap and no change. cleaned the grounds behind intake and checked vacuum on all hoses and fuel lines were cleaned out as well. With minor adj to dist plus all the cleanin and checkin car runs a lil better but still a problem. what else could have been downstream frum the first dist goin bad. Bc thats the start of the proble, an the only thing changed. any other ideas would be greatly appreciated.
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djdiamond
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My car is drivable now but still not quite right. only code showin now is 23 for iat sensor. Can a bad air filter cause this. Can the iat cause my sputter. Currently looking at a hatchback just hope its not a 3 cyl. On my way to do a comp test now. U guys have helped me a ton and we are almost there ill just b glad to have it fixed.
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Woodie
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IAT is a brass thingy mounted in the air cleaner pancake, usually in the back near the firewall. Could be bad, could be a bad connection.
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