Welcome Guest [Log In] [Register]
Posted ImageWelcome to the all new Geo Metro Forum. We hope you enjoy your visit.

You're currently viewing our forum as a guest. This means you are limited to certain areas of the board and there are features you can't use and images you can't see. Registration is simple, fast, and completely free. If you're already a member please log in to your account to access all of our features:

Join our community!




Username:   Password:
Add Reply
Got the Head and Block back; Not happy with the head
Topic Started: Jun 2 2010, 08:24 PM (1,468 Views)
ShallowShannon
Member Avatar
Advanced Member
[ *  *  *  * ]
Hey Fellers
Been a while since I posted but I got my block and head from the machine shop today. (FINALLY!)
Had them flattened, bored, cleaned, and a valve job on the top end.
I was under the impression that a valve job involved cleaning, lapping new valve guides and seals.
Before I take the head back to them I wanted to get your opinion on what I've got going on here.
It appears they have replaced only the intake guides and not the exhaust side.
Not only are there hairline cracks on the guides (the ones not replaced) but it looks like they have been threaded also!? This can't be right.
I've spent a lot of money on this step of the rebuild and was wondering what you guys would expect
from a machine shop after 500 bucks in mostly labor. The only parts they ordered were 4 valve guides.
The photo is typical of all four guides. The cracks didn't show up in the photo.
The new guides are smooth and purdy.


Posted Image
Haven't looked at the block yet, its bored 50 over. Anything in particular I should look for while inspect the block ?

P.S.
I will do a project thread when the assembly begins.

I got pistons and rings from partsdinosaur.com and will be ordering all the gaskets and seals from there also. If not for this forum I'm not sure I would have taken on this project, I appreciate the help ya'll have given me.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
JellyBeanDriver


I forget the name of the repair, but there's a method where the metal in the guide is displaced, then reamed to size. Overall there's less metal but the I.D. is corrected. I've never seen one in person but that's what I think it would look like.

What's the JB weld looking stuff to the left? (looks like it's a freeze plug they used it on)
Edited by JellyBeanDriver, Jun 2 2010, 09:01 PM.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Coche Blanco
Member Avatar
Troll Certified

that is JB weld...lol
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Rooy


JellyBeanDriver's got it, it's called "knurling." Kind of a cheap fix that's an alternative to replacing the guide. It seems odd that they'd even bother knurling when they replaced the intake side. Why not just replace them all?

BTW, a valve job should include refacing the seats with a cutter or stone (not lapping), refacing the valves (or replace if needed), guides checked and replaced as needed (or knurled), new valve seals, head checked for straightness, and of course cleaned.
Edited by Rooy, Jun 2 2010, 09:41 PM.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
bogs
Member Avatar
Duct tape heals all wounds

:+1 for $500.00 I would have expected a complete and correctly done job.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
ShallowShannon
Member Avatar
Advanced Member
[ *  *  *  * ]
Thanks for the reply's
It seems that all the freeze plugs on top have that goop on them.
I don't know why all the guides were not replaced I don't want to them more money
so hopefully the knurling will be ok.
The valves and seats were refaced.
I am however missing all but one of the alignment sleeves.
No seals were replaced, just removed and tossed.

Are the alignment sleeves (for lack of correct terminology) easy to find?
I may need one for the motor/tranny also, can't seem to find all of those either.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
slander
Member Avatar
Tech Certified

That goop is just a sealant they use on freeze plugs. I use it myself, but not THAT much. Just a light film is enough. And for 500, I would expect much, much more. New guides, valve seats resurfaced, new valves set and lapped, the whole works including assembly.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
bogs
Member Avatar
Duct tape heals all wounds

:+1
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Coche Blanco
Member Avatar
Troll Certified

My Beee
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Johnny Mullet
Member Avatar
Fear the Mullet

Could have got a 3Tech head package for that.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Rooy


slander
Jun 3 2010, 07:26 PM
And for 500, I would expect much, much more. New guides, valve seats resurfaced, new valves set and lapped, the whole works including assembly.
Remember that he said the 500 includes boring the block too.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
bogs
Member Avatar
Duct tape heals all wounds

And? For what was charged, I would not be expecting shortcuts from a professional machine shop. $500., that block should have been done correctly, not 'good enough'.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Rooy


And? I don't know, I was just pointing out to slander that it wasn't a $500 valve job, it also included boring the block.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
slander
Member Avatar
Tech Certified

Having a block bored doesn't cost much at all. I charge $12.50 per cylinder. A 3 cylinder engine would cost less than 40 dollars to be bored through me, and any other machine shop would charge right around 50.

Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Rooy


Boring and honing I would assume? Hone to fit each piston? I think $20 a hole is a pretty common price. And then some shops might charge separately for cleaning the head and block. Probably charge extra for having to replace any valve guides too.

I don't disagree that the $500 charge is steep, especially for only 3 cylinders.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
1 user reading this topic (1 Guest and 0 Anonymous)
Go to Next Page
« Previous Topic · Engine Tech & Diagnostics · Next Topic »
Add Reply