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Detonation - need help
Topic Started: Jun 7 2010, 11:29 PM (1,727 Views)
92GoCart
New Member
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mwebb
Jun 10 2010, 11:18 PM
92GoCart
Jun 10 2010, 11:15 PM
Does the key need to be on for this or the engine running? Seems like there would have to be some current flowing some place to be able to get a reading of voltage if there was a bad connection. Some weeks back I did remove and clean all the grounds I could find. I will try this test in the morning.
engine running
Hi beams on
heater blower on MAX
rear defogger grid ON
Very good, that makes since. The EGR moved freely back when I removed and cleaned so I doubt that's stuck but will make sure. Will also check the EVP. I sure hope I don't have valve issues. I'm glad it's an easy head to pull though if I do.
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92GoCart
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Fan on max, lights on, A/C on (don't have rear defrost). It varied some but I was getting in the mid 50's to mid 60's (mv) most of the time. I had already cleaned all the grounds so I probed the end of the ground cable itself at the trans and showed the same drop there as anywhere else on the engine. I pulled the cable and soldered the crimped ends and stuck new heat shrink on. This improved the ground so I was seeing 18-21mv with everything on. This didn't fix anything as I expected but at least I know it's better now.

mWebb: I'm not sure where this evap valve is you are talking about but I removed all the vacuum lines to the canister and still have flutter. I'm quite sure the EGR is not leaking as I checked it when I had the valve off before and it causes the engine to run rough when opened.

So it appears I'm going to have to decapitate this thing and have a valve job done in order to make sure that it's mechanically sound before I go any farther. I'm guessing that a flutter like this can confuse the ECM via the MAP sensor and cause problems? I don't have a leak-down tester but I just bid on one (ebay) so I may wait and try that out first.


I plan to go synthetic oil. I was just running the cheap stuff until I knew this car was going to work out. I have been running Amsoil in my Dodge Cummins for many years along with bypass filtration+ UOA (used oil analysis). I have run as many as 75k miles on a drain this way. More common was 50-60k drains when I was driving OTR with it (405k miles on the clock).
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crankcase


Did you investigate the timing as doug7x and mwebb indicated. An slight adjustment
to the timing might take care of the problem.

Another thing to try is purging the the combustion chamber with water.
Some people have hooked up their windshield squirter line to go to the intake
so as to put a squirt of water (first drain the tank and then put in clean water)
into the intake from time to time over a few days. This shot of water helps to
clean out the cylinders/pistons/head. You would wan't to do this while cruzing
at a good clip in to help keep the engine going.

Of course you can also just slowly dribble in a little water at idle too.
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92GoCart
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It has all been checked more than once as posted earlier. I tore it clear down to a the crank to make sure the key was okay. Everything was perfect. Timing light has been on it many times. It's at 3ยบ right now. No I haven't done the water trick but like I said before it has only 1k miles since I had the engine torn down and fully cleaned everything. I also sea foamed it a few days ago (in gas and drowned through TB). Spark plugs are white clean. I parked it today to drive another car while I sort this out.
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