Welcome Guest [Log In] [Register]
Posted ImageWelcome to the all new Geo Metro Forum. We hope you enjoy your visit.

You're currently viewing our forum as a guest. This means you are limited to certain areas of the board and there are features you can't use and images you can't see. Registration is simple, fast, and completely free. If you're already a member please log in to your account to access all of our features:

Join our community!




Username:   Password:
Add Reply
Brand New Head Gasket Leak; Leaking Head Gasket
Topic Started: Jun 9 2010, 02:22 PM (1,455 Views)
dangbird
New Member
[ *  * ]
Hello Gents -

I just installed a new head and gasket on my 1.0L 94. All went perfectly, except two items..
I missread the Torque wrench (Bad Eyes) by 10 lbs so I torqed my new bolts to 44 lbs instead of 54.

Car ran fine then started leaking oil down the front of the block in front of the #1 cylinder. I torqued to 54, and still leaked but barely.

In your opinion, am I looking at a new gasket and bolts or should I cool engine, loosen in order, then retorque?

Second issue BTW is the Distributor housing is leaking a bit of oil.. Can High Temp RTV take care of this joint?

I appreciate Mr Mullets Head How to BTW made life easy!

THANKS!
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
bennie442


Head gaskets (other than copper) cannot be reused. The factory head bolts are a one time use, torque-to-yield design and also cannot be reused. There are aftermarket bolts that can be reused. As far as using RTV to seal the suspected distributor leak, your distributor has rubber "o" rings that can harden and crack. Simply remove the distributor and replace them (mark the position of the distributor before removing). Let us know how this goes for you, and welcome to the forum.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
crankcase


Are you shure it's comming from the head gasket? That's kind of an unusual place to be getting oil out from. There IS an oil return hole in there somewhere (and is does not jive with the "re re-torqe and the leak got better concept - or does it - can't remember where the seal is?" :ermm: ), but I would check to see if it may be comming from the cam seal.

I've reused a newish head gasket on my 93 :shake and got away with it :evillol , but it is not advised anywhere to do so :news .
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
dangbird
New Member
[ *  * ]
CrankCase - You were dead on...cleaned the block and head, watched the oil seep from a small port right behind the #1 Manifold exaust. Is this supposed to have a screw in it? I did not see one on the old head...
Also I am having a tough timing starting the car from cold. I crank the distributor amost all the way toward the rear of the car and I can start it.
Blows blue smoke until I take it for a run and clean it out. Are they related? I appreciate the insight!!!
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
mwebb
Member Avatar
FOG

...."I torqed my new bolts to 44 lbs instead of 54.

Car ran fine then started leaking oil down the front of the block in front of the #1 cylinder. I torqued to 54,"....


what you describe above
is NOT POSSIBLE with torque to yield bolts TTY
======================
your description of setting the base ignition timing is not correct either
follow the exact method for the car -
and set Base Ignition timing to 8 degrees btdc .

after that , Never frak with it , never .

measure intake vacuum
Teed into the MAP sensor vacuum line before the restriction orifice ...
must be about 20" and smooth with no flutter in the needle
if the timing belt was re installed incorrectly , intake vacuum at idle will be substantially under 20" .
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
dangbird
New Member
[ *  * ]
Other than not having any way of testing the MAP vacuum, could I be a tooth off on my timing belt?
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
mwebb
Member Avatar
FOG

dangbird
Jun 9 2010, 07:23 PM
Other than not having any way of testing the MAP vacuum, could I be a tooth off on my timing belt?


yes
but it is a wee bit easier and quicker to measure intake vacuum than it is to remove what is needed to view T Belt alignment marks .
results will be the same

it will BE good , or it won't
Edited by mwebb, Jun 9 2010, 07:51 PM.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
dangbird
New Member
[ *  * ]
Well I think I will have to remove cover etc...Crank should be TDC, and the Crank Key should align with the block, then the CAM should be perfectly centered with the Valve cover notch correct? That is how I set it...
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
dangbird
New Member
[ *  * ]
CrankCase - I picked up a Vac Gague and Teed it into the MAP..At Idle...
Thoughts?

Posted Image
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Bad Bent
Member Avatar
Facetious Educated Donkey

Welcome to the forum, dangbird! :smackface
:lol

Take a look at the pics at Timing Belt Replacement Guide and rotate the crank twice to make sure the marks realign.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
mcmancuso
Member Avatar


Vacuum is low, probably a disconnected or cracked vacuum line, others may chime in with other places to check.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
dangbird
New Member
[ *  * ]
It appears that when I put the Cam Gear on, I put it on with the "Tit" at the top, this allowed the teeth to be off a few. I think after moving the cam gear to the position in the TIMING BELT GUIDE (Thanks Bad Bent!) the blue smoke of doom has dissappeared. I will road test tomorrow and see what flies.. Any Pics or good diagrams on what plug and jumper to short for setting the timing? I think I have it close... My vaccuum is still running under 20 so I am guessing mcmancuso is right, but I do not see any leaks etc. I blew thru my PVC so I know its good. I appreciate the time Gents. Will update tomorrow.

FYI - I think I can do a timing belt in a Geo in 45 minutes flat. My wife timed me and I did it in 56 minutes. LOL
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
crankcase


The vacuum is low. Being off on the timing belt can cause low vacuum readings.
Here is a cool site that shows some different needle movements:
http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/186.cfm

I'm not shure what port you are talking about. I'll see if I can locate what you are
talking about on one of our cars in the morning. I can't think of anything like that. :hmm
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Bad Bent
Member Avatar
Facetious Educated Donkey

dangbird
Jun 10 2010, 12:38 AM
Any Pics or good diagrams on what plug and jumper to short for setting the timing? I think I have it close...
My vacuum is still running under 20 so I am guessing mcmancuso is right, but I do not see any leaks etc.
FYI - I think I can do a timing belt in a Geo in 45 minutes flat. My wife timed me and I did it in 56 minutes. LOL
It would be a good idea to simply replace the vacuum lines. I had a leak at a tight bent in the hose between the MAP and the TB at the TB. Couldn't see it but I pulled the hose off the TB to "T" the gauge to the vacuum and the hose broke off. :smackface That's a bad thing.

1991 Plug...
Posted Image Should resemble the sticker on the your hood.

That's a great time on the timing belt. :lol
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
dangbird
New Member
[ *  * ]
Well the timing did fix the blue smoke. Lots more power too. New issue however... Vacuum is about 17, and when the engine is cold it is very hard to get running. I have to advance the timing, until it is warmed up, then magically the car runs PERFECTLY. I retard the timing a bit and good to go. I checked every vacuum line I could find, pulled each one. Cound not find a leak anywhere. Any ideas on where to go from here on the cold start issue? Is it related to the vacuum? Thanks so much this is a great forum for GEO Ignoramuses like myself, but I am feeling more edjamacated now!
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
1 user reading this topic (1 Guest and 0 Anonymous)
ZetaBoards - Free Forum Hosting
Create a free forum in seconds.
Go to Next Page
« Previous Topic · Engine Tech & Diagnostics · Next Topic »
Add Reply