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very odd problem; my shop dont know whats wrong
Topic Started: Jun 9 2010, 08:27 PM (1,473 Views)
kiwiee
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ok my 1994 geo metro just had gas tank, fuel pump, new gas lines, rad, timing belt,starter, wires, cap, spark plugs and pins in back drum after a 1100$ bill my car now anytime it gets below half a tank I give it gas and it accelerates no problem but if I let off the gas and just try to keep my speed it spudders and dies but stops and starts no problem again. The shop I had the work done at has no idea whats wrong and I didnt have this problem before I had all this work done. I have had the car 3 weeks any ideas would be very helpfull! thanks :die
Edited by kiwiee, Jun 9 2010, 09:57 PM.
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Memphis metro


I am mighty afraid the grammar police is going to get you!
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HavsCritiria
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EDG you've posted 666 time OH NO!!!! resume the topic.
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Spock
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Live Long and Prosper.

No offense dude, but your grammar and spelling makes it kinda hard to follow your question. I can't talk at all, because my spelling is pretty terrible also. Anyway, I think it's time to drop the tank and have a look at the fuel pump that your shop just installed. I am thinking that if the problem you described only occurs when the tank is half empty (half full) then they boogered up the pick-up tube when they installed the fuel pump. If your shop can't do a fuel pressure check to confirm or dispel that theory, I'd say you need a new mechanic.
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Memphis metro


enginedoctorgeo
Jun 9 2010, 08:55 PM
I am mighty afraid the grammar police is going to get you!
Dont be offended by this statement. It is really a pun from a recent posting.
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Bad Bent
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Facetious Educated Donkey

What was the problem before this was done? :hmm
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Spock
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Live Long and Prosper.

Yeah, me too man. I hope I didn't offend. We're here to help, not grade English papers! :cheers
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Johnny Mullet
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Fear the Mullet

Compression test! That is all :cheers
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GeoStalker
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"Chicks dig me and guys think I'm cool."

Johnny Mullet
Jun 9 2010, 10:21 PM
Compression test! That is all :cheers
I agree. Sounds like the shop replaced $1100 worth of stuff without performing simpler diagnostics first.
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nerys
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Grr

OK first. there is no way to say this nicely. You got raped. Well actually considering all they replaced thats actually NOT a bad bill for a mechanic paid job.

but you could have done it yourself for probably a third that.

FIRST thing I hope you take from this forum. These cars are ridiculous and I mean insanely ridiculously EASY to work on. To the point of childish sometimes.

If you take anything from this forum I hope its the knowledge that you can fix ALMOST ANYTHING on your car with basic tools and your own two hands. that alone will save you a simply awesome amount of money.

The radiator you could have replaced yourself in under 20 minutes. Including burping it. its 2 clamps and 2 screws. thats it. yanks right now. Drop the new one in done.

Fuel tanks are a pain but its only 10.6 gallons you can manage that yourself even if its FULL as it would only weigh what 70-80 pounds tops?

as for your current problem I really don't know.

Obviously anything they touched is "suspect" (not bad job but simply because I am assuming it did not do this previously)

My gut says air bleed somewhere. IE one of the connections is allowing AIR to enter the system and is likely a submerged "something" that becomes no longer submerged as you use the fuel in your tank.

ie check those fuel lines BUT since its tank level dependent there is a high probability (again my gut I am NO expert) that its IN the tank.

it might be as simple as drop the tank. Take it apart and put it back together. Maybe something went back together "just a wee bit off" and simply reassembling it would solve the problem.

again no expert but my gut says it can't be the fuel pump. The fuel pump has no capacity to be "aware" of how much fuel is in your tank and I doubt 3-4 gallons of gas is enough to create a Pressure differential that might effect anything.

While a compression test is definately a good idea as noted above my gut says its impossible for ANY compression conditions to cause these conditions. Again how would or could a piston know what your fuel level is and realize a different to behave like this? It can't to the best of my knowledge.

Find a local Harbour Freight. You will be addicted soon enough. You can get a Compression Tester for $10 and its REALLY REALLY easy to do. I suggest paying $20 and get the nicer one with the adapters and nice plastic case to store it all in.

good luck. Keep us informed and please come here FIRST when you have a problem and try to Do It Yourself first. You might surprise yourself in how easy it is how much money you save and if your so inclined into that kind of thing how much FUN and Self Rewarding it can be to fix it yourself.
Edited by nerys, Jun 9 2010, 11:23 PM.
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kiwiee
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well never had the problem before the work was done and works fine anything above half a tank so would Compression really have anything to do with that? And problem before waz it stalling out when i come to a stop but thay did pressure test on fule pump thats why it was replaced. well car back into shop vary soon :banghead :die
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kiwiee
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yea from now on im doing it all my self i got the tools i waz lazey and thought it waz sumthing simple a shop can do fast and it turned into a big deal and was esey to say yea do it. o yea my alternator is shot the bearing making bad noise :coffee thanks for the help ill let u all know whats up once fixed
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Edited by kiwiee, Jun 9 2010, 11:50 PM.
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crankcase


If the alternator/belt is squealing (a common issue), try cleaning the pully with solvent and bristle brush.


You can do a pretty good check of the bearing once the belt is off. See if it has any play in it.
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metroschultz
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Please just call me; "Schultz"

My first thought is that they swapped the fuel lines.
What was the pressure side is now return and vice/versa
going to be really hard to trace this down without better input.
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Bad Bent
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Facetious Educated Donkey

Here is How to change fuel pump - 95+ Metro; fuel gauge issue if that helps. :dunno
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