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| Connecting rod bolts | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Jun 11 2010, 06:48 PM (4,652 Views) | |
| idmetro | Jun 11 2010, 06:48 PM Post #1 |
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I am in the reassembly stage of a rebuild on a 92 1.0 and just experienced a very strange thing. I put the main bearing caps on and torqued them into position, installed the pistons (one at a time) put the bearing cap on each and tightend them just snug going back when I had all 3 in place and torquing them to the FSM 40 ft/lbs. #3 worked just fine, #2 seemed odd so I stopped after a bit and went on to #1 which never seemed to come up to the appropriate torque. Eventually I snapped off one of the #1 bolts and visually #2 were over tight. I then took the torque wrench and checked it against the main bearing cap again getting a audible click at 40 ft/lbs. I will be replacing the bolts on #1 and #2 but am wondering what I may have done wrong. Ideas? |
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| bennie442 | Jun 11 2010, 08:12 PM Post #2 |
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Rod bearing caps are 26 lb.ft. in my factory service manual. Main crank caps 40 lb.ft. Therein lies your problem. |
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| idmetro | Jun 11 2010, 09:24 PM Post #3 |
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Well I checked the FSM several times in an attempt to avoid this...
Edited by idmetro, Jun 11 2010, 09:26 PM.
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| Spock | Jun 11 2010, 09:52 PM Post #4 |
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Live Long and Prosper.
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Looks like they have a spec for connecting rod cap nuts and connecting rod bearing cap nuts. What's the difference? I'd like to know myself! |
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| JellyBeanDriver | Jun 11 2010, 10:42 PM Post #5 |
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Nevermind, I'm confused too! Edited by JellyBeanDriver, Jun 11 2010, 10:44 PM.
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| bogs | Jun 11 2010, 10:58 PM Post #6 |
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Duct tape heals all wounds
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Aint that always the way ? |
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| Murf 59 | Jun 12 2010, 08:47 AM Post #7 |
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Good luck finding those bolts. About 9 mnths ago. I could not find them. I did find rod nuts. I orderd a set at my local dealer. They came in packages. I bought both packages. When I went back in a month to order something else. I figured I would get a few more sets of rod nuts. Since I am building several of these engines. Extras are always a good thing to have. Well it looks like I got the last set from the factory. |
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| idmetro | Jun 12 2010, 09:32 AM Post #8 |
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Ah-ha! So it is your fault I too have drawn a blank after spending several hours on the phone dealing with less than educated folks at various parts stores and the one dealership within reasonable driving distance and having to go over and over what I am looking for. they have gotten very good at having 400 kinds of wax, stuff to make your tires shiny and air fresheners in any shape/scent you might want but have gotten pretty lousy at having much beyond spark plugs to keep the vehicle functioning. What ever happened to the day when you could call and speak with a person who might have actually worked on an engine (any engine) before?I found that I could get connecting rods with bolts from Chevy @ $164.50 each but cannot order just the bolts. Looks like I'm headed to the local pick and pull to buy a core engine just to get 6 bolts
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| 91xfi1.0 | Jun 12 2010, 10:25 AM Post #9 |
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Hi guys, is it possible to find some grade 5 bolts in that size? Is there room to feed the bolt through the upper part of the lower connecting rod? Maybe file it a bit to fit? Just an idea/suggestion. I don't know if this is a really bad idea.
Edited by 91xfi1.0, Jun 12 2010, 10:29 AM.
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| wikityler | Jun 12 2010, 01:30 PM Post #10 |
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Some say...
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I'm sure you could find a bolt that's the same thread and length as you need, just go to a fastener supplier. Whether using regular bolts would work, I'm dubious. The rod bolts look similar to wheel lug studs, in that they are pressed into place to guarantee precision alignment. You may need to just buy a set of ebay pistons with rods. Also In my '91 Sprint/FIrefly FSM there is only a spec for "Connecting rod bearing cap nut 26 lb.ft." |
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| Murf 59 | Jun 12 2010, 04:13 PM Post #11 |
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The head on our rod bolts is a really strange shape. And a grade 5 bolt would only be asking for trouble. And if you hand file them into the correct shape, you would still need to static balance them. Making sure your piston/rod assy is exactly the same. The factory gets pretty close. But once you start changing out parts, it could get to be a pain from there |
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| JellyBeanDriver | Jun 12 2010, 07:10 PM Post #12 |
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I can't imagine the bolts are unique to only the suzuki/metro. That said, give Samp993 a PM. He's got a boneyard of Metros and I'm sure can supply you with a bolt. |
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| idmetro | Jun 12 2010, 09:22 PM Post #13 |
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JellyBeanDriver - Thanks for the suggestion, I had already made a run to the local pick and pull so won't need to impose on Samp993 just yet. I did learn today that I can field strip an engine still in the car with hand tools in 90+ temps in about an hour...Even managed to do so with good junkyard manners (didn't cut any wires or trash anything else to get what I needed) Engine bottom end is back together. 26 ft/lbs worked MUCH better. Nearly had the top end together but managed to propel a valve keeper across the garage and am simply too tired to contine the search tonight. Hopefully she lives tomorrow. Edited by idmetro, Jun 12 2010, 09:23 PM.
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I checked the FSM several times in an attempt to avoid this...

I too have drawn a blank after spending several hours on the phone dealing with less than educated folks at various parts stores and the one dealership within reasonable driving distance and having to go over and over what I am looking for. they have gotten very good at having 400 kinds of wax, stuff to make your tires shiny and air fresheners in any shape/scent you might want but have gotten pretty lousy at having much beyond spark plugs to keep the vehicle functioning. What ever happened to the day when you could call and speak with a person who might have actually worked on an engine (any engine) before?
7:40 PM Jul 10