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| my metros not running so good | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Jun 14 2010, 06:54 PM (726 Views) | |
| pete poling | Jun 14 2010, 06:54 PM Post #1 |
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Fresh Fish
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i just bought a 2000 chevy metro hatch with the 1.0,150k on the clock , i got it from a guy who stoped driving it last fall after he said it just quit running, he had a different car to drive and didnt want to fix it...blaa blaa blaa so i brought a good battery, put it in and cranked on it, it started up but i had to give it some gas then ran kinda rough, maybe cause it has sat since oct. then it seemed to clear up, had a check engine light on, havent checked the code yet he said it was a o2 sensor code. anyway i bought it and got it home cause it ran but it still runs kinda poorly, i performed a compression test on it cyl 1 160, cyl 2 130, cyl 3 160 but the engine was cold...so theres where im at, it revs slow witch i think has something to do with timing so i prob have a burnt valve to cyl 2 i just wanted to know if i was going in the right direction with this sorry for the book thanks in advance for your input Edited by pete poling, Jun 14 2010, 07:11 PM.
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| Horn | Jun 14 2010, 07:28 PM Post #2 |
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gotta check the timing. easy to do and can make the car run 10x shitty or 10x better. |
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| Bad Bent | Jun 14 2010, 07:52 PM Post #3 |
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Facetious Educated Donkey
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Welcome to the forum, pete poling! horn12007 is correct, and 8o is recommended (instructions on hood sticker). I'd go with a tune up or at least check the distributor, plug wires, plugs, PCV (leading suspect) and do Seafoam Maintenance. Also check to see if the coolant lines on the Throttle Body are hot when the engine is hot. The Catalytic converter may be plugged, disconnect the down pipe and see if it runs better. If it is O2, it could be EGR related and those passages clog with carbon. Metro EGR System.A Scan Tool would be nice or the $35 OBDII Code Reader on eBay will work. |
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| Johnny Mullet | Jun 14 2010, 07:52 PM Post #4 |
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Fear the Mullet
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It will still run OK with lower compression. We have to figure out the Check Engine Light code being displayed. Rent or borrow a scanner and post the codes. |
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| pete poling | Jun 14 2010, 08:03 PM Post #5 |
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Fresh Fish
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i ran outside and saw that the dist. was almost cranked clockwise...i think... so i just maxed it out clock wise and it made a real difference,revs alot better, i remember i had to do this in my 94 metro i had, it just lacked performance even after a tune up almost like they loose timing overtime but that doesnt make alot of sence, i may need to just start driving this thing after a tune up and a couple tanks of gas and recheck comp in all cyl and timing oh...and i need to firgue out that code it just had all tires replaced, all new exhaust with a cat and muffler and the A/C fixed before he stoped driving it thanks again for the input Edited by pete poling, Jun 14 2010, 08:05 PM.
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| bogs | Jun 14 2010, 08:12 PM Post #6 |
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Duct tape heals all wounds
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I thought compression testing had to be done after the engine reached operating temps ? |
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| Woodie | Jun 15 2010, 05:53 AM Post #7 |
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Sounds as if your camshaft timing is off a tooth. Listen for ignition ping, most cars will ping with the distributor slammed all the way. Once you drive it a bit to get everything loosened up, redo the compression test. Engine hot, all plugs out, throttle wide open. |
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| pete poling | Jun 15 2010, 06:08 AM Post #8 |
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Fresh Fish
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i didnt know it had to be warm till i read the procedure on this website, i dont understand how it could be a tooth off when the guy has done nothing to the timing since he has owned it and that was about five years, i guess ill check the timing and codes and get back to you during the test drive with the dis cracked i had no ping, sounded good, good power so who knows... on my 94 metro when i bought it the guy was like yea i just did a new timing belt well he didnt torque the crank bolt down and the crank got wollered out by the crank key so timing was way off cause the crank gear was all over the place, had to get a new crankshaft, key, and timing gear Edited by pete poling, Jun 15 2010, 06:12 AM.
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| starscream5000 | Jun 15 2010, 08:30 AM Post #9 |
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Got 70 MPG?
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I don't think you have a burnt valve, 130 is usually too good for a burnt valve, it may have a stuck oil ring though. Re-check compression with engine hot after driving it for 20 miles or so. If compression on that cylinder is still low on dry and higher on wet by quite a bit, it may still be stuck. Seafoam may free that ring up. They usually wear all together when rings are worn, not just one by itself... Change the oil and filter in it, check the distributor cap, wires, plugs, and rotor as well, replace if any are worn/damaged looking. |
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