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| Engine Swap 91 into a 93 | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Jun 15 2010, 02:35 PM (939 Views) | |
| snowfish | Jun 15 2010, 02:35 PM Post #1 |
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Basic GearHead
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Next week begins phase one of my Geo project. Plan is to swap this 91 G10 ![]() into my wife 93 ![]() I have reason to believe that if I swap the intakes & distributor, this should be pretty much a plug and play deal. I hope to pull the 91 this coming Monday. Then clean it up, replace the clutch, tranny seals, timing belt, water pump, cam & crank seals, though out the week. Then Saturday & Sunday do the swap. Can you think of any hidden surprises? |
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| slander | Jun 15 2010, 02:40 PM Post #2 |
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Tech Certified
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Front and rear main seals, and cam seal. Don't buy a front main seal gasket set, get a second cam seal, they're the same seal. If I were you, get the gaskets and seals BEFORE you do the job. Do it all in one day. I do it all the time. Takes me 45 minutes to have one of these engines out. Also, while you're there, clean out all EGR passages. |
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| snowfish | Jun 15 2010, 03:27 PM Post #3 |
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Basic GearHead
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Parts should be here before the weekend. Rear seals too. I did plan on augering out the egr. I may have to swap the valve covers too. Looks like the routing changed a little. Thanks for the encouragement. |
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| cdmccul | Jun 15 2010, 04:11 PM Post #4 |
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Go for it! I did nearly a full build of a metro from parts to running in about 8 hours... You'll do fine! Don't over do it, keep your marbles about you, but there is no reason you shouldn't have a LOT of this done in just a day or two. |
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| Bad Bent | Jun 15 2010, 08:28 PM Post #5 |
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Facetious Educated Donkey
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Have fun! I see no issue and I'm glad to see you are changing the clutch. |
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| snowfish | Jun 16 2010, 06:51 AM Post #6 |
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Basic GearHead
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Yeh, I figure changing the clutch & pilot (whether it needs it or not)is easier on the bench. One less thing to worry about. That's why it's getting a new water pump, timing belt & idler too. On a seal note............the rear crank seal installs the same as the front, right? |
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| Bad Bent | Jun 16 2010, 12:54 PM Post #7 |
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Facetious Educated Donkey
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"On a seal note............the rear crank seal installs the same as the front, right?" My FSM says:Remove 1. Transaxle from vehicle 2. Clutch pressure plate and driven disk (M/T) 3. Flywheel 4. Remove Seal. It shows the removal of the main seal housing, applying some loctite to the bolts and removing the excess gasket material. |
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| snowfish | Jun 16 2010, 04:03 PM Post #8 |
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Basic GearHead
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Thanks Bent. Parts should be here tomorrow. Still can't start until Monday. Going fishing with the club tomorrow. Then leaving Friday at 5:05pm to head north for more fish with my Wife.
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| mcmancuso | Jun 16 2010, 04:32 PM Post #9 |
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Sounds like its covered. One more thing to check, I don't know if the later model uses a crank position sensor in the oil pan, check, if there's a sensor in the oil pan just change that over as well (the whole oil pan that is). The block and head are identical, intakes are different due to EGR. You will also have to switch distributors, the earlier distributor is vacuum advance, the newer is electronic. Its 2 bolts, pull it out and put the new one in
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My FSM says:
7:40 PM Jul 10