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| the birth of a MET head | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Jun 23 2010, 09:52 PM (2,559 Views) | |
| JohnyP | Jul 3 2010, 09:28 AM Post #16 |
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She is a 1994 Base that has 140,000 miles on her the car has been all over (from Manie, Michigan, Florida and who know where else) and I assume well taken care of as it has been owned by a Mechanic who i bought it from. Before that it was owned by a body shop guy who did get it in an accident i was told and the only reaming problems was that the interior passenger front fender was kinda bent but it does not affect the driving at all or engine. The Mechanic I got her from claimed that he sold it once but it came back 3 hours later with a wrecked tranny as the person who bought it did not know who to drive manual and "dropped the clutch". So this Mechanic replaced the radiator, clutch and transmission. When I have driven her she seems to shift just fine so I assume the tranny/clutch is fine. What I am trying to solve with the engine is so light white/clear smoke that comes off of the tailpipe right where it comes off the engine as it looks like oil drips on to it from there. Also I get Terrible MPG it is around 20 or so. The oil spraying out of the exhaust is new to my knowledge as we first noticed it during my failed compression test we held the throttle wide open as huge clouds of smoke filled the driveway. When I changed the Oil could I have not put in enough or or maybe to much. Also I did notice the the new coolant I put in is dirty as there is stuff/ junk floating on the top when you remove the radiator cap? Again guys this forum and the guys on it are some of the bet people in the world Cant wait to see you all at GeoPalooza |
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| mcmancuso | Jul 3 2010, 10:26 AM Post #17 |
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If you really put 4 quarts of oil in it you overfilled it, these engines don't take 4qts. Thant may cause oil to get places its not supposed to. 2.5qts for the engine 1/2qt for the filter should be it. Also definitely check the PCV valve and associated hose, these clog easily with that carmel colored oil gunk, then it goes past into the intake.
Edited by mcmancuso, Jul 3 2010, 10:26 AM.
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| Woodie | Jul 4 2010, 05:14 AM Post #18 |
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Sounds like a blown head gasket or cracked head to me. |
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| JohnyP | Jul 4 2010, 03:33 PM Post #19 |
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Update: So I have found that I have an oil leak from some where? the car leaves a quarter size stain after sitting for 8+ hours Also I am almost sure I have a leak in the exhaust as I an hear and feel air comming out of the tail pipe around where the drivers side door handle is I am thinking I have a blow head gasket. I hope I Hope I Hope that is is not a crack in the Head. I will be posting more pics soon |
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| Bad Bent | Jul 4 2010, 09:11 PM Post #20 |
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Facetious Educated Donkey
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snowfish suggested Seafoam and I'd add not one but maybe three (at least 2) treatments of 1/3 can each, maybe every other day. When you do, use the Throttle Body or the brake booster vacuum hose but use them at least once. The Seafoam smoke will help you locate any exhaust leaks also. On the oil change I add oil to the filter (at least 3/4 full) and a thin film on the gasket then add 2 quarts to the engine and wait for it to appear on the dip stick. Slowly add more until it's almost full. Drive it and top it off. I'd recommend replacing the plugs and making sure the gap is correct and they are torqued in to about 20 foot pounds of torque. That might mean buying another $20 tool but torque wrenches are worth it. My HF wrench is OK to within +/- 2-3 foot pounds, my guess. Store them set to "0." The drip may be from the cam or main seal under the timing cover. If the cam seal the PCV valve may be clogged. It's in the intake manifold, #2 cylinder connected to the "Y" between the air cleaner and valve cover. OR it could be the distributor o-ring, a simple fix but cleaning the engine and watching for the drip is the best way to find it's origin. Liquid flow down hill unless under pressure.
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| JohnyP | Jul 4 2010, 10:11 PM Post #21 |
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Thank You guys so much! Funny Bad Bent I was doing my first shot at SeaFoam just about the time you were posting. I did it in a empty parking Lot as I was worried about the "smoke". I put 1/3 in gas, oil, and throttle Body and and after letting it sit for 5 or so mins it had a hard time starting but once it did oh boy did it smoke, enough to get the cops to come over to ask what was going on. I then drove the car about 25 miles and boy does it seem to run better. I did find an exhaust leak right around where the E brake is on the tail pipe line. I will change the oil tomorrow night drive a few day then a few day seafoam again. I have decided to start with a basic tune up (3 seafoams, a few oil changes, a few tanks of gas, new plugs and wires, Fuel filter) first before trying any thing hard rebuilding the head. This forum Rocks and you guys are awesome.GEO for Life |
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| Bad Bent | Jul 4 2010, 10:45 PM Post #22 |
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Facetious Educated Donkey
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Hope the cops were nice. If you added Seafoam to the oil today, do you need to change it so soon? If the oil is just plain filthy and well past the 3000 miles then it can do some harm. Just thinking of saving some oil and money, but I see your logic. If you want to clean it and change it soon (granted the oil is OK) I'd add another 5 oz of Seafoam and change it next weekend. Do not over fill. I did that to a Hyundai Accent and it stopped some valve chatter. General FYI... Besides the color of the oil, another way to test it is to rub some between your finger and thumb, get it off the dip stick. Really bad oil would feel gritty. Nice thing is that the new plugs, wires. Fuel filter and PCV will last a while.
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| z34-5speed | Jul 5 2010, 01:33 AM Post #23 |
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Formerly "Tech Certified"
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To me this sounds like your car is running HELLA rich, especially the part about 20mpg. When my car was running boosted after about 50-100 miles the oil would be pitch black. This was due to the car running extremely rich. I would check your o2 sensor. Kyle |
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| JohnyP | Jul 10 2010, 11:10 PM Post #24 |
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Hey guys here is a quick update 1. I repainted the wiper arms and plastic grill where they attach to. Looks really nice. and put some new blades on the arms so I now can drive in the Rain 2. Fixed the passenger window reg, so it goes up and down now. It goes down great but going up it kinda messes up in the last 2 inches 3. Checked the codes. I got a 23 (IAT) so I will be looking at that soon. 4. running my second sea foam tonight 5. I for sure have a leak in my exhaust it is coming from the middle box on the pipe. not the muffler but the one half way in the middle of the car. what the hell is this middle box do? 6. Tomarrow will bring new pics, her first bath, and new oil 7. I am also working on a rear seat removal/ station wagon mod. |
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| geojames | Jul 10 2010, 11:50 PM Post #25 |
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rice
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that middle box is a resonator. i removed mine when i went to an aftermarket pipe but i don't have inspections to dill with
Edited by geojames, Jul 10 2010, 11:52 PM.
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| JohnyP | Aug 24 2010, 09:58 PM Post #26 |
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Well Guys sorry I have not posted in a while but here is kinda what has been going on. I started a full write up and cost analysis of being a hyper miler. you can read below if you want it is not finished ******************* sparky This is my story of my personal quest to make a user-friendly hyper-miler that looks good and has all the comforts of a “modern” car. In the fall of 2009 I found myself in the market for a new vehicle as I got into a very bad crash (due to bad road and ice) that totaled my Honda Cr-v. This was a great car that I put over 300,000 miles on and never failed me. Alas the car was totaled and so time to find a new one. Me and my wife began looking for a car that would be comfortable, fuel efficient, fun to drive and fit our needs as a young married couple. The first cars we really looked into were some of the many electric-hybrid engines cars. After driving them and really crunching the numbers in side by side comparisons we concluded; 1. The electric hybrid’s are extremely inefficient as there has existed cars from the past, like the Geo Metro, that can get as good if not better fuel efficiency straight from the factory. 2. The savings presented by the better fuel efficiency is outweighed by the overall sticker price of the hybrid itself. 3. Which in my own opinion is the most grievous of offences various. Parts on the car are specifically designed to prematurely wear out in order the make the consumer to return to the dealership and spend their hard-earned monies on parts that should not wear out if not for the intentional self-destructing engineering. 4. Any aftermarket alterations to the car void the warranties and with a technically complexed machine, there are specific repairs, which the general consumer would be unable to make the said repair neither themselves nor even some mechanics. So after coming to these conclusions it was my goal to attempt what would seem to be impossible. I wanted to beet the Automotive Industry. I did not see why I could not have a personal form of transportation that; 1. Was relatively simple (mechanically), such that a college educated person with no prior automotive experience could care and maintain the vehicle and if necessary do any repair with information found in a repair manual. 2. Reliable 3. Safe 4. Meet all of the transportation needs (both or passengers and cargo) of me and my new wife’s needs as busy professional musicians 5. Be cheaper and more efficient than public transportation 6. Fun 7. Stylish 8. Comfortable So to sum it all up. I intend to buy a car and modify it to be just as green and eco-friendly as the newer hybrid cars. So the saving provided by better fuel efficiency is an actual profit in the end. All while not sacrificing safety, comfort, or style. We set out on our adventure by trying to determine what a reasonable monthly budget would be for a car. Ok you want a vehicle as described above well lets take the flagship of the eco-friendly line of transportation, the Toyota Prius. The current price of the Prius is $22,800 with an EPA rating of 51 highway and 48 city miles per gallon (mpg). In a recent survey I conducted among friends most people drove on average 20,000 miles per year. At 51mpg that would be just around 400 gallons of gas per year. Let us assume that the price of gasoline stays constant at $2.50. This would be a yearly fuel cost of $1000. Most people I know replace their car around 100,000 miles if possible. So using the best estimations possible your cost of using a Prius is $22,800 for the car $5,000 Fuel over five years assuming gas price is constant $1,000 cost of basic repairs over 5 years of the car (oils, fluids, brakes, so on) $3,000 insurance over 5 years So your total cost would be $31,800 assuming you paid everything in cash and had no credit charges. If you owned the car for 5 years owning a Prius would cost you $17.42 a day. Using the same figures on the non hybrid Toyota Yaris $12,605 for the car $6,945 Fuel over five years assuming gas price is constant $1,000 cost of basic repairs over 5 years of the car (oils, fluids, brakes, so on) $3,000 insurance over 5 years So your total cost would be $23,550 assuming you paid everything in cash and had no credit charges. If you owned the car for 5 years owning a Yaris would cost you $12.90 a day. By owning the non-hybrid you save $1650 per year. How is a hybrid more economically friendly? Yes, it does use 30% less gas but is that really all that friendly to your wallet or the environment. As even the you save the world 150 gallons of gas a year. How much damage is caused to the environment in making the hybrid engine/battery and it’s accompanying technology? I bet just about the same, in the end nullifying and gains either fiscally or environmentally Let us assume that you have a full time job, which pays you minimum wage. That would be a total income of $1200, after the chunk that Uncle Sam takes out this leaves you with aproxmently $1000. Not a whole lot, after your $500 rent, $200 grocery bill, and total of $125 worth of utility bills, this would leave you aproxmently $175 which could be applied towards a form of transportation. So over the year you could amass just over $2000 for the year. On average to insure you car with various state minimums and to register the car you would be looking at least $500 over the year. Now our $2000 is down to $1500, that is a measly $125 a month that needs to go towards repairs, fuel, and the cost of the vehicle it’s self. Oh Boy! This is going to be tight. Now lets think about how long should a car last you. It would be great if 1 car could last you entire life time but this is just about impossible. So I felt that if a car could last me 10 years. This 10 year figure was derived by polling an number of friends to determine home many miles they I would be happy and feel that I had got my monies worth. But how much is my money worth after all $125 could not get you most car loans available through a car dealership. **************** OR YOU CAN JUMP TO HERE recently I have done a ton of stuff to the car including 1. naming it "sparky" for the fact the somewhere there is a electrical short (open circuit) that causes sparks when you reconnect the neg bat. terminal 2. Removed the stereo and built a custom dash bezel and in the process relocating the blower controls down to where the ash tray was 3. station wagon mod the back 4. reconnected all of the Sensors (Many thanks to all who helped me at GeoPlozza) 5. Fixed all of my oil leaks 6. New spark plugs and wires And then... well this last 3 weeks the clutch has been having issues in that 1. I need to double clutch in to reverse 2. it makes a noise when in neutral and the clutch is not depressed (throwout bearing) And then today happened... |
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| JohnyP | Aug 24 2010, 10:13 PM Post #27 |
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I came to a stoplight in 3rd and came to a stop. Light turned green and I downshifted to 1st (it went in) then took the foot off the break to get ready to press the gas down. And then (while the clutch pedal was still all the way down) the car lunged forward and smashed into a jeep liberty's spare tire. Pics below ![]() ![]() what do you guys think Is it salvageable. I measured the engine bay tonight it is square but the front sway bar (the upper one)/hood latch is bent in and the radiator is pushed almost to where it is touching the tranny. The bumper is untouched. It seems that the only thing that happened was bent hood and killed the hood latch mechanism. what should I do/ check? I think the engine is tilted. how can I check |
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| Memphis metro | Aug 24 2010, 10:21 PM Post #28 |
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(what do you guys think) I think you can expect to see a letter in the mail real soon from a lawyer from the owner of the jeep liberty! Oh for the car, cant say. Anything is pretty much salvagable with money and time. |
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| JohnyP | Aug 24 2010, 10:27 PM Post #29 |
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No letter will be coming from the Jeep. As the guy got out looked at his car said he was fine. Then pointed and laughed at my Geo and peeled out with out saying a word to me. Progressive has viewed the car as not worth saving do to the miles/age of the car and made an offer not worth it to me. I want to save it. But where to start. It still drives great and does not pull left or right or make any funny sounds. just looks kinda bad
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| Memphis metro | Aug 24 2010, 10:30 PM Post #30 |
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Good deal, why is it when my wife runs into the back of people I always get the nasty people trying to get rich and everyone else does it and get a deal like you got. As for the car, just start pealing off bent up useless parts until you get it down to untouched parts and see what you got. |
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7:12 PM Jul 10